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Discussion Starter #1
I already have a 460 and C6 built. I am now looking for a 87-93 4 cyl coupe or rolling chassis NOT a hatchback! Before I get a car what problems will I encounter or modificatons will I have to make in order to get the motor in and drivable? I know I have to get different mounts and headers. I also heard that with my tall valve covers I will have to get a manual brake master cylinder because the tall valve covers hit the brake booster. If anyone else has put a 460 into their car and they got it to work and drive it then please let me hear about you experiences, problems, and tips. I would really appreciate any advise you can give me. thanx!
 

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Yup, so far so good. Depends on whose motor mounts your going to use as to a few othe headaches.

Manual brakes, rigging a throttle and kickdown cable, and take a BFH to the seam area of the drivers floor. Give yourself about a 1/2" by 2" area of more clearance, and no problems. THe shifter linkage ends up at the floor seam.

If the engine is anything more than stock, enjoy roasting tires.


Any questions E mail me.
 

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Need different front springs.

Valve cover clearance to brake booster is an issue.

Headers are a pain to put on.

Buy a kit (several available) just don't mix and match

TRACTION

Email me if you have any more questions too.
 

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i used the hooker super comps and didn't have any problems with install. i used a motor plate for more room also.

for a throttle cable use a lokar cable and bracket available from summit or jegs. top quality piece and solves any problems. looks nice too.

you can use v-8 front springs or moroso trick front springs.

traction is NOT an issue if you set it up properly. (wolfe,trz, etc)
not gonna be any worse than a stroked 351 or blower/turbo car really. i pull 1.46 60 foots running mid 11's on motor with 26x10 et drags and 3.73's (stock 1974 460, 3500 stall c-6).

run manual brakes, easier in the long run.
manual steering too.

really was easier than i thought it would be.

and as far as weight of the motor that people always talk about.
remember when guys were running iron headed 351w and vortechs? with that, a/c, power steering and such weights are close. run a k-member and a-arms and you will be good.
I am going to take my big block coupe and my alum headed R302 vortech cobra to the scales soon and compare their 50/50 weights. both have tubular front ends. any guesses?
 

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4 cyl car? The rear end won't last long (7.5" ). On my 79 I had hood clearance issues but different motor mounts might solve that. If your not buying a kit then you will need a rear sump pan (Econoline van?) and pick-up tube or custom make one. I didn't have any tranny linkage problems and I used custom "tri-y" headers. New front springs if it is a 4 cylinder car and a brake upgrade as well. If you have to change out the rear end look for a 9" with disc brakes (Lincoln Versaille). The housing will have to be narrowed and the control arm mounts welded on but you will never have to worry about the rear end again. (my opinion) Get some sub-frame connectors, the big block torque will twist the car up pretty good and they will help your traction.And finally, find a good tire shop that will cut you a deal on tires.;)

There is probably a lot of things I have missed but it's been a while since I had the car. Hope this helps.
 

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no problem

I did mine a few years back, had no problem with serp belt, had tall valve covers and brake booster, ran holcombe mounts.
Email if you have any direct questions.
Do not beat your firewall till you try it, mine was real close to fitting.
 

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Problems I could see:

TRACTION

DRIVING IN ANYTHING BUT A STRAIGHT LINE

REMOVING THE SMILE FROM YOUR FACE



Have fun!!
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Thank-you for you replies

Thanks for the replies but I have some more questions, one guy said that he ran a brake booster with the tall valve covers, I have the Ford Motorsport tall aluminum valve covers so I don't know if they will fit. I know I have to redo/upgrade the susp. and rear-end, so these are not issues right now. I do have a 460 out of a 69' truck, I heard that the truck rear sump pan fits the fox body? I also have the 9" rear end out of it, can these be converted to disc and control arms? Manual brakes and steering aren't a problem. I was also wondering how tall a cowl hood I will need to get it to fit? This car is just going to be my street cruizer, toy so I am not worried about traction for now, I just want to get this car drivable (Safely) so I can have some fun on the roads. Any other suggestons would greatly help. Thanks
 

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you could have your 9" narrowed and the control arm points welded on. disc brakes for a 9" are plentiful and many. I would avoid any plug hassles and go manual brakes. I believe you will need a 5" cowl hood or you can use a hood like billy glidden used to run on his fox cars (scoop)
 

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If you want that sleeper look and have a stock intake, a little clearancing and a stock scoope (like on a Capri RS) would be the way to go. I have a 4" cowl and I wonder how tight it will be with the new stealth intake.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I also have the stealth aluminum intake, so I am hoping that it will all fit under a 2.5" cowl or lower. Less attention=more victims
 

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just noticed that you're from KY. Guess I won't be the only BB fox here anymore :( . Only seen one other, from Ohio (full chromoly tube car) seriously bad. Said he was setting the throttle stop to keep from having to pull the chute :eek: .

You're last name doesn't happen to be Kistler? I went to tech school in Louisville.
 

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You read correctly, I ran the motorsport tall valve covers, and used my 89 stock brake booster with no mods.
You do have to put the last header bolt in from the bottom though.
 

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good post, ttt!

How about costs? Can we get a breakdown of the costs of all the major parts? Going from scratch....5.0 to 460...
 

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My costs

How much in the car?
$800 in the donor Thunderbird (which wound up being a rare car 1500 or so built that I stole the drivetrain from)
$500 in the Stang (which I drove home and later sold the drive train for $150)
$1100 in the engine swap kit (headers, springs, pan, tranny x member
$70 driveshaft
$300 Posi 8.8
$300 3.55 gears and bearing, seals, etc
$230 for the cowl hood
$1000 in wheels and tires (used)
$300 for shocks and Southsides (used)
$300 in gears
? 500 or so in incidentals (plugs, chrome, air filter, etc)
So $5500 or so total for the way it was last year
13.11 best et @ 104

Winter mods

$250 3 angle vlave job and heads setup and milled .010
$175 Stealth intake
$375 Comp cams 230/230 .530/.530 cam kit
$160 roller rockers
$45 screw in studs and guidplates
$30 hardened pushrods
$40 porting kiit (ported and polished the heads myself)
$450 3200 stall race converter with anti balloning plates
$200 rebuild the tranny with kevlar bands
$115 weiand alum water pump
$75 tall valve covers to clear roller rockers
$55 Fel pro gasket kit

mid 11s or bust (really or NOS) around $7500 in the car and much more potential with maybe a 548ci in the future ?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
KIDDOT BE CAREFUL!!!!
I used that same camshaft you are planning to install, It's from comp cams right? I got a msd billit distributor and regular gear
and normal oil pump. I drove the truck 10 miles and it quit after backfiring so loud the car beside me ran off the road!! After looking to see what was wrong I found that all of the teeth on the distributor gear were eaten off. I looks like the cam gear is not cut properly for fords. Another friend put a 302 into a truck with a comp cam and same thing happened to him. I would call comp cams first and make sure before you hang up that they will guarantee that this cam will work for you. I went with Lunati after that and checked the wear almost every day for 2 weeks and it was perfect, right in the center. Make sure you look into this before you lose your mind rebuilding your motor after driving a few miles! good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I found a couple of manufactures for mounts, around $120-140 but I could only find Hooker super comp headers and they were around $360+. Do you know of anyone else that makes headers for 460 in fox body cheaper than this. Hey I'm broke I'll admit it! I'll take the hassle of fighting to get a header in for a couple of hours if it saves me a hundred dollars. If you know of anyone that makes long tubes that fit this cheaper than the Hookers than please let me know.
 

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Will check about the distributer gear. Are you sure it wasn't something to do with the MSD gear being (can't think of the material) but roller cams have a different patteren teeth or material or something? Remember reading about it somewheres.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Kiddot I bought the exact same cam kit I believe it is called a K-kit. I still have the springs, timing chain but the lifters and cam are gone. I think comp cams knew there was a problem because when I called to ***** them out the just said send it back to summit and get something else! I also had problems with their Magnum rocker arms on the 460 so they are now gone. I will never buy another Comp Cams product again. I truly believe they are just for chevys and are all show. But hey Comp Cams prove me wrong!!!
 
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