[TomV]

I'm starting to gather equipment for my Mustang sound system, in which I plan to install this summer.

I used to have a system in my old 86 Thunderbird and have some parts left over that I plan to reuse:

• Precision Power AM2150, AM2050 and ProMOS50 amplifiers
• MB Quart Musicomp QM 300.72 crossovers
• MB Quart QM 110 coaxial speakers

And I've just acquired some new speakers, and saved a bunch during the holiday sales:

• Morel Hybrid MW6
• Morel Tempo Ultra 572 Integra

Here is a picture of all the components (except the AM20250 which is currently in the car, along with a Kenwood DNX9990HD DVD Navigation head unit).

More on this install in my next reply...

 

[TomV]

Since the amplifier are 26 years old, I plan to solder in new electrolytic capacitors. I have $52 worth of high temp Panasonic caps from Moser Elect. ready to go in. New Weller soldering station too. These caps are the achilleas heal of most electronics as they don't have much of a shelf life. Here is a picture of the insides of the ProMOS50 (400W) on top and AM2150 (600W) on the bottom.

 

[TomV]

My plan for the FRONT is to use the PPI AM2150 (2x150W RMS) for the front 3-way components, in which consists of the MBQuart coaxials in the dash, Morel 6-1/2" mid bass in the doors and MBQuart crossovers. I'm hope to fit the dash speakers under the factory grills and will likely install the door speakers on new custom pods on top the door panel.

For REAR fill, I plan to use the PPI AM2050 (2x50W RMS) and the Morel 572's in the stock rear locations.

And for a SUBWOOFER (in which I'll need help with selecting) I plan to use the PPI ProMOS50 which is (1x400W RMS) into 2 ohms. I once used it to power two JL Audio 12W4 subs.

 

[TomV]

SUBWOOFERS

The previous owner of my car (good friend) once had two old school Kicker 10" subs in a rear facing sealed box in the hatch. The box was angled and fit under the cargo cover nicely. It used to hit pretty hard and sounded really good from what I can remember. This is the arrangement I'm considering, because I've personally heard it and read the rear firing angled subs deliver the best output in the hatch.

I've searched extensively online for all sorts of subwoofer installations in Mustang hatches. A lot of subs are single drivers set into the spare tire well and aim up at the hatch/glass. While this installation looks very nice, I've read it's not ideal and I've never personally heard it. Maybe someone else can chime in.

Now since my old school sub amp is only 400W into 2ohms, I'm not sure if that's enough power for todays subwoofers. I see woofers that can handle 1000 or more watts of power. I'm wondering if a single high-end 12" sub or two lower-end 10" subs would be better with my amp. At least I have some time to figure something out.

 

[fasterthangas]

Those old PPI amps are killer. They even made versions that could be water cooled. I had an Orion competition system back in the day using their CCA amps. I also used MB Quart separates and crossovers. My favorite amps of the era were Soundstream D series. They were the most musical to me. Moral speakers are a great choice as are Focal. I too ran 2 ohm loads. The older amps loved it. If I had one suggestion; I'd use subs built for a sealed enclosure. I think the Q of the speakers determine that. Front speaker seperates always sounded the best in the bottom front corners of the doors and better yet; the front kick panels. Smaller subs and a sealed box provide tight, accurate bass. I'd rather run four 8" subs that two 12's.

 

[TomV]

Yeah, I remember Orion was really good stuff, but my local shop didn't carry them or perhaps just didn't stock them. I still have my original MB Quart 328 CX separates too, unfortunately one of the 6.5" drivers is blown.

The Quarts are only rated at 70W and I was running 150W back in the day. The main reason I got Morel Hybrids is because they are rated at 140W. I have Focal Access 6.5" speakers in the doors right now... but like the Quarts they don't handle that much power.

I also considered running the Quart 4" and separate tweeters again (like I did in my TBird), but the mounting options for those clunky tweeters sucks. I'd have to fabricate custom pods on the mirror covers and run more wires into the doors. Thus I found the set of NOS MB Quart 4" bi-amp coaxials pictured in the first thread to ease the installation.

 

[fasterthangas]

Yeah, I remember Orion was really good stuff, but my local shop didn't carry them or perhaps just didn't stock them. I still have my original MB Quart 328 CX separates too, unfortunately one of the 6.5" drivers is blown.

View attachment 1068206

The Quarts are only rated at 70W and I was running 150W back in the day. The main reason I got Morel Hybrids is because they are rated at 140W. I have Focal Access 6.5" speakers in the doors right now... but like the Quarts they don't handle that much power.

I also considered running the Quart 4" and separate tweeters again (like I did in my TBird), but the mounting options for those clunky tweeters sucks. I'd have to fabricate custom pods on the mirror covers and run more wires into the doors. Thus I found the set of NOS MB Quart 4" bi-amp coaxials pictured in the first thread to ease the installation.

I prefer at least a 6" mid in the kick panels or doors. I use to run 7" Focals at one time and loved them. A bigger mid can cover midrange to mid bass so the subs don't have to recreate mid bass and the mids don'thave to play lower bass than they can handle . Ideally; subs should play a narrow sound range from say 50hz and lower. Realistically; in a car you may have to cross the bass over at 80hz and lower. Low bass requires long wavelengths that can't be obtained in a car without a very elaborate, multichambered box. A custom pod is the only way to go for a somewhat accurate soundstage. Autos are very limited vs a good home system. The whole idea with placing the mids and tweets lower in the car is for time alignment. The sound is delayed a few milliseconds and is more natural to the ear. Tweeters can be placed to where they bounce sound off of the windshield but it's trial and error to obtain an accurate sound stage.
Distortion kills speakers, not so much the power. You'd be surprised at how few of watts a tweeter and mid actually use at loud sound levels. It's the low bass that suck up power.

 

[TomV]

Thanks for your input! I understand what you're saying. I'm planning on hanging onto the old 328 set until I'm satisfied with the coaxials.

The newer NOS (still made in Germany) Quarts are similar 4" midranges, except 4 ohm rather than 6 ohm and have poly cones. The tweeters are essentially the same titanium domes, but with a neo magnet. I understand the tweeters won't be on axis, but the dash is angled on both sides and I'm not sure how much reflection into the windshield there will be or how the imaging will be just yet.

 

[fasterthangas]

Thanks for your input! I understand what you're saying. I'm planning on hanging onto the old 328 set until I'm satisfied with the coaxials.

The newer NOS (still made in Germany) Quarts are similar 4" midranges, except 4 ohm rather than 6 ohm and have poly cones. The tweeters are essentially the same titanium domes, but with a neo magnet. I understand the tweeters won't be on axis, but the dash is angled on both sides and I'm not sure how much reflection into the windshield there will be or how the imaging will be just yet.

View attachment 1068208

Coaxial speakers actually have great time alignment as the two drivers project sound from nearly the same plane. They are a good compromise with a single built in crossover. Separates often have better crossovers and can be placed in more ideal positions. I had a pair of Boston Acoustics coaxials in one vehicle and the sound was fantastic. I'm a big fan of silk dome tweeters ad titanium often rings at certain frequencies. This make some titanium tweeters sound bright/harsh. As far as woofers, treated paper cones and kevlar cones are some of the nicest sounding. I've been an audiophile for at least 40 years. I dig this ****.