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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
you could probably find a used kit but realize they are probably beat the hell on.

turbos are cheaper, but the centi superchargers have the quality control.
Quality control? I have a new Garrett ball bearing unit sitting here. OEM quality.
1072223
 

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As far as the valve cover interference goes, just beat on the front of the VC till it clears the alternator. That’s what I did, worked like a charm lol. Not recommended for cast aluminum ones, but it can be done if you’re prepared to weld it if it cracks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
i mean more of the system fitment of those $1500 turbo kits vs a supercharger kit.
My kit was thousands more than that. It's fully tigged with dual 38mm Precision wastegates and 60mm Precision bov. It has a 4" Garrett race intercooler. Everything is tigged stainless steel except for the tigged mild steel headers.Everything steel is V band and T clamps for silicone. There are 2 dp's. One 3" and one 3.5" with provision for electric cutout. The kit is off an 8 second NMRA/True Street car. The seller was not forthcoming with the details of the kit. On my '95; the driver's header hits the ac compressor and front swaybar. I was told it worked with my factory AC. Come to find out; he ran Fox accessories on his SN. The passenger header hits the ABS module and front swaybar. This kit is meant for a full on race car and not the street car I intended to build. I was told otherwise. The 4" intercooler requires a tubular front bumper cover support. Running Fox accessories requires me to buy a cowl hood and have it painted along with the addition of a Fox ac system. A front swaybar is a must have.
So....The hot side is useless. It makes me sick. This is why I'm considering a bolt on solution.
 
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
As far as the valve cover interference goes, just beat on the front of the VC till it clears the alternator. That’s what I did, worked like a charm lol. Not recommended for cast aluminum ones, but it can be done if you’re prepared to weld it if it cracks.
I run tall, cast aluminum vc's to clear the stud mounted rockers. I've seen pics of 94/5 alternators rotated toward the water pump with a billet bracket and a heimed rod. I have no idea where the kits come from.
 

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My kit was thousands more than that. It's fully tigged with dual 38mm Precision wastegates and 60mm Precision bov. It has a 4" Garrett race intercooler. Everything is tigged stainless steel except for the tigged mild steel headers.Everything steel is V band and T clamps for silicone. There are 2 dp's. One 3" and one 3.5" with provision for electric cutout. The kit is off an 8 second NMRA/True Street car. The seller was not forthcoming with the details of the kit. On my '95; the driver's header hits the ac compressor and front swaybar. I was told it worked with my factory AC. Come to find out; he ran Fox accessories on his SN. The passenger header hits the ABS module and front swaybar. This kit is meant for a full on race car and not the street car I intended to build. I was told otherwise. The 4" intercooler requires a tubular front bumper cover support. Running Fox accessories requires me to buy a cowl hood and have it painted along with the addition of a Fox ac system. A front swaybar is a must have.
So....The hot side is useless. It makes me sick. This is why I'm considering a bolt on solution.
It sounds like a nice setup, but it really depends on how far you’re willing to go to make it work. Changing to fox front accessories is really pretty straightforward, but ain’t free. Why would you need a cowl hood?

Honestly the abs module didn’t really do **** on my sn95, I didn’t notice anything really when I took it out. Same with the front sway bar.
 

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I run tall, cast aluminum vc's to clear the stud mounted rockers. I've seen pics of 94/5 alternators rotated toward the water pump with a billet bracket and a heimed rod. I have no idea where the kits come from.
I beat on my tall cast aluminum trickflow valve covers to clear the alternator using the factory sn95 bracket. Worked fine. I had a friend weld up a small area where it cracked, which was expected, and I refinished the area with some wrinkle black paint. Can’t even tell it happened.
 
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My kit was thousands more than that. It's fully tigged with dual 38mm Precision wastegates and 60mm Precision bov. It has a 4" Garrett race intercooler. Everything is tigged stainless steel except for the tigged mild steel headers.Everything steel is V band and T clamps for silicone. There are 2 dp's. One 3" and one 3.5" with provision for electric cutout. The kit is off an 8 second NMRA/True Street car. The seller was not forthcoming with the details of the kit. On my '95; the driver's header hits the ac compressor and front swaybar. I was told it worked with my factory AC. Come to find out; he ran Fox accessories on his SN. The passenger header hits the ABS module and front swaybar. This kit is meant for a full on race car and not the street car I intended to build. I was told otherwise. The 4" intercooler requires a tubular front bumper cover support. Running Fox accessories requires me to buy a cowl hood and have it painted along with the addition of a Fox ac system. A front swaybar is a must have.
So....The hot side is useless. It makes me sick. This is why I'm considering a bolt on solution.
i wasn't aware of the application of the setup. I've experienced crap fitments from the cheaper systems. yours sound quality but unfortunately you can't use it. Try to unload it and recoup some loss. you'll like the sc. run 15psi and youll get your 450. dont forget the meth. I think u remember you telling me you have a quality tuner near by. see what he thinks. gl
 

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Does your current turbo system fit without the alt on?

You could always move it if that is the case.

Personally I'm a turbo guy over the supercharger. I ran both. Just my opinion.
 

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I am not sure why you are worried about tq as the 302-347 mild builds already make good tq. I am also betting that your rpm range will be 4K-6k anyways, so a centri will be great in that sweet spot.
I always browse centri kits for some reason, and the Anderson tuner kit is probably the best out there right now. You can opt for the heritage gear set so the neighbors hear you coming and then add a few hundred for a meth kit. The V3 has enough flow for 700hp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
It sounds like a nice setup, but it really depends on how far you’re willing to go to make it work. Changing to fox front accessories is really pretty straightforward, but ain’t free. Why would you need a cowl hood?

Honestly the abs module didn’t really do **** on my sn95, I didn’t notice anything really when I took it out. Same with the front sway bar.
I deleted the ABS but I don't think deleting the swaybar is a good idea for city and freeway driving. Our speed limit is as high as 75mph on the freeways. City driving is crazy here. You have to be prepared to hit the brakes and swerve quickly here.
In 94; Ford moved the engine 1" forward compared to the Fox. When adding Fox accessories to a SN; the accessories sit 2" forward of the SN accessories. Look at how long the snout is on a Fox water pump. The SN hood slopes down earlier from windshield to front. The SN hood hits the Fox accessories and won't close.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
i wasn't aware of the application of the setup. I've experienced crap fitments from the cheaper systems. yours sound quality but unfortunately you can't use it. Try to unload it and recoup some loss. you'll like the sc. run 15psi and youll get your 450. dont forget the meth. I think u remember you telling me you have a quality tuner near by. see what he thinks. gl
What can I expect when launching from a dig with a sc?
Yes; I have an excellent tuner.
 

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With the stock can? I'd like boost to come in early for the street.
Wastegate setup. Pulley for what ever boost you want to happen at what ever down low rpm you want and dump the excess boost before running it through the intercooler. No sense cooling air you won't use anyway. If you pulley for 30 psi at 6000 you will have 15 at 3000 and 10 at 2000 and 5 psi at 1000. You'd hit 8 psi at 1600. Once you hit your target, you can more or less hold that psi. In principle it's the same thing turbos do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Does your current turbo system fit without the alt on?

You could always move it if that is the case.

Personally I'm a turbo guy over the supercharger. I ran both. Just my opinion.
The passenger hot side would be perfect if it didn't hit the swaybar and I could move the alternator inward. The swaybar literally needs to be removed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I am not sure why you are worried about tq as the 302-347 mild builds already make good tq. I am also betting that your rpm range will be 4K-6k anyways, so a centri will be great in that sweet spot.
I always browse centri kits for some reason, and the Anderson tuner kit is probably the best out there right now. You can opt for the heritage gear set so the neighbors hear you coming and then add a few hundred for a meth kit. The V3 has enough flow for 700hp.
Coming from a BB background; I'm always craving tq. I was always unimpressed with my 347 combos and they were all in by 5500ish.
 

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I deleted the ABS but I don't think deleting the swaybar is a good idea for city and freeway driving. Our speed limit is as high as 75mph on the freeways. City driving is crazy here. You have to be prepared to hit the brakes and swerve quickly here.
In 94; Ford moved the engine 1" forward compared to the Fox. When adding Fox accessories to a SN; the accessories sit 2" forward of the SN accessories. Look at how long the snout is on a Fox water pump. The SN hood slopes down earlier from windshield to front. The SN hood hits the Fox accessories and won't close.
Fair enough about the accessories.

I’m telling you, you’ll be hard pressed to notice the sway bar being gone. I had it on a sn95, removed it for clearance and it didn’t make a bit of difference. Also, you can make brackets to drop down the sway bar in the front. We did it once using some steel plate and welded nuts on the inside to bolt the bar on.

1072227


I don’t know if that helps you any.
 
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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Fair enough about the accessories.

I’m telling you, you’ll be hard pressed to notice the sway bar being gone. I had it on a sn95, removed it for clearance and it didn’t make a bit of difference. Also, you can make brackets to drop down the sway bar in the front. We did it once using some steel plate and welded nuts on the inside to bolt the bar on.

View attachment 1072227

I don’t know if that helps you any.
I looked at spacing the swaybar but it would take around 4" spacers. It's that bad.
 
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