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Discussion Starter #1
So with the series 1 no longer being supported and no provision for a flex fuel sensor I've decided to change to a Series 2. I've got a series 2 6050 box and have started mapping out the pin arrangements. I need to make some changes to the internal jumpers but I'm not sure what to do about the following pin locations on the factory harness:
Pin 6 - VSS (-)
Pin 9 - AGND (MAF RETURN) (I'm presuming I can just ground this wire)
Pin 17 - Self Test Input
Pin 20 - Case Ground (I'm presuming I can just ground this wire or not worry about it)
Pin 26 - Reference Voltage (I'm presuming this is a +5V in which case I'll wire it to +5VDC)
Pin 36 - SPOUT (I understand this gets wired to coil 1, but then I'm not sure what do with pin 48 which is the factory coil wire)
Pin 37 - Vehicle Power (I'm presuming this is switched power)
Pin 39 - Spare Temp Voltage
Pin 45 - Baro/Map sensor (this is the factor sensor which I'm presuming I can just leave out)
Pin 46 - AGND (Signal Return) (I'm presuming I can just ground this wire)
Pin 49 - AGND (Signal Return) (I'm presuming I can just ground this wire)
Pin 57 - Vehicle Power (I'm presuming this is switched power)
Pin 60 - Power Ground (I'm presuming I can just ground this wire)

Where I'm really wrapped around the axle is what to do about the SPOUT. TT460 posted in another thread that the spout wire goes to Coil 1 which, in effect, uses the TFI only to drive the coil and the tach. In this configuration what happens to the factory coil wire, pin 48?

Thanks for any help.
 

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I've done a few 6050 installs in non-Honda applications, but I started with a generic harness and mapped it to the 6050. The thing to be mindful of is that Honda and Ford may have different grounding or power strategies... If you use a 5V sensor ground for something that has a +12v power feed, you will fry your EMS or blow a surface mount resistor. So keep those two power and grounds separate.

What I find helpful is building a spreadsheet with all of the AEM Inputs on one side and all of the factory harness wires on the other... As I go through each wire in the harness, assign it to the specific pin on the EMS. Process of elimination...

I haven't done this straight up to a EEC-IV harness... If you're working with an original harness (20+ years old), I'd suggest you just build your own. However, if you decide to proceed with the factory harness:

Pin 6 - VSS (-) - C21 - VSS Ground
Pin 9 - AGND (MAF RETURN) (I'm presuming I can just ground this wire) I Believe AGND is the same as sensor ground, which is not the same as chassis ground. You would need to find a "SENSOR GROUND". (A7, A31, D9, etc)
Pin 17 - Self Test Input
Pin 20 - Case Ground (I'm presuming I can just ground this wire or not worry about it) Probably Power Ground
Pin 26 - Reference Voltage (I'm presuming this is a +5V in which case I'll wire it to +5VDC) Yes
Pin 36 - SPOUT (I understand this gets wired to coil 1, but then I'm not sure what do with pin 48 which is the factory coil wire) I think Coil 1 output which is pin B13
Pin 37 - Vehicle Power (I'm presuming this is switched power) Yes
Pin 39 - Spare Temp Voltage Is it in your harness? What does it go to on the Ford harness?
Pin 45 - Baro/Map sensor (this is the factor sensor which I'm presuming I can just leave out) Yes, unless you're using a MAP sensor
Pin 46 - AGND (Signal Return) (I'm presuming I can just ground this wire) This is a sensor ground, do not ground to chassis. Find an available sensor ground output on the 6050
Pin 49 - AGND (Signal Return) (I'm presuming I can just ground this wire) This is a sensor ground, do not ground to chassis. Find an available sensor ground output on the 6050
Pin 57 - Vehicle Power (I'm presuming this is switched power) Yes
Pin 60 - Power Ground (I'm presuming I can just ground this wire) Power Ground on 6050
 

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Discussion Starter #3
TT460, thanks for the extremely helpful response!

I built a spreadsheet and after using your responses as references I was able to really get this map organized. The reason I want to use my current harness is I recently rebuilt the entire harness with new wires, friction tape, etc. and it is all tucked up under the fenders and most of the connectors have been replaced with weatherpack style connectors. The harness is really nice and I don't have the motivation to do a project like that again. I bought a junk A9L from another member so I can build a breakout harness and just plug the Series 2 in with minimal pain.

After going through the spreadsheet I am left with the following pins having no identifiable location:
Pin 16 - Ignition Ground (Which presumably is another power ground)
Pin 48 - Coil 1 (Now the SPOUT wire is connected to Coil 1 on the 6050)

If you would be willing to take a look at my spreadsheet I would appreciate it. If you would PM me your email I'll send it to you.

Thanks, again, for your help!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So I finally got everything installed and couldn't get the car to fire. The computer is counting crank teeth normally but it is not counting the cam tooth. When A Tooth passes 24 and where you would expect to see a cam signal and a stat sync I get nothing from cam tooth and a timing error. The 6050 box has Cam+ and Cam- pins. I'm running the output from the TFI to the Cam+ pin and I don't have anything in the Cam- pin.

I'm running a 12 tooth wheel (so 24 fuel teeth) and the reluctor wheel in the distributor only has a single short tooth for a cam trigger. I'm using the old PIP wire as the cam signal and I ran a new wire to pin 56 for the crank signal.

I've essentially copied and pasted my series 1 calibration into a base series 2 calibration. I'm not sure if my problem is calibration related or wiring related. Another strange thing I'm seeing is that the engine load is fluctuating with throttle position. As the throttle position approaches 100% the engine load goes up. I've triple checked all the wiring so I can only presume there's something I'm missing in the calibration.

Thanks for any help.
 

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Did you figure this out? What Cam sensor are you using? 2-wire mag or 3-wire hall effect?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I got the cam sensor figured out, it was something pretty simple. I'm using the factory reluctor wheel, with just the narrow tooth, as a cam sensor.
The series 2 does not play well with the TFI, however. The rising edge output from the box does not fire the coil reliably through the tfi. I am bypassing the tfi and will be using the cdi, with an input directly from the ems to fire the coil.
Thanks for followng up!
 

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I've had great success with using the factory distributor as cam sensor with a stock Motorcraft TFI module. Aftermarket TFI modules are super flaky. Not sure if that's your problem or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I agree, I won't use anything but a Motorcraft TFI module. As I'm sure you already know, the series 1 EMS has a dedicated SPOUT to trigger the TFI where the series 2 does not. It appears as though the TFI system does not respond to a standard 12V rising edge trigger. I've read that the EEC-IV's TFI trigger is somewhat unique in that regard. It was easy enough to wire the coil output to the CDI trigger and as it happens Crane's CDI box is compatible with a coil negative tach. The TFI's only job, now, is to output a cam signal to the EMS.
 

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I'm running a 12 tooth wheel (so 24 fuel teeth) and the reluctor wheel in the distributor only has a single short tooth for a cam trigger. I'm using the old PIP wire as the cam signal and I ran a new wire to pin 56 for the crank signal.



Thanks for any help.
Where did you get the 12 tooth wheel and machined to fit?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I've had great success with using the factory distributor as cam sensor with a stock Motorcraft TFI module. Aftermarket TFI modules are super flaky. Not sure if that's your problem or not.
Well I got the car to idle on the series 2, still haven't done any real driving due to my wanting to do some housekeeping in other areas. Once everything was synced up I had to make some changes in the software for the coil. There's some math involved in figuring out coil dwell but once that's done it's a matter of changing the dwell tables in the software. The car seems to idle smoother with the TFI bypassed but that could just be in my head.
 
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