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91 GT, 302 with twisted wedge heads, XE270HR-12 cam, track heat intake, 30 lb injectors
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pulling timing based on engine coolant temps that low?
I got than info from a Tmoss Veryuseful article - I don't have a reason to believe it's wrong but then again it is anecdotal evidence from a free article on the internet and could have a little error here and there.

From the article:
"In graphing the parameters of thousands of data samples during closed loop operation, we have seen the EEC go into closed loop at a temperature less than 170°F since Rick Wagner sent more data from the last revision. When temperature gets to 190°F, the A9L EEC pulls 2° of timing, so a 180°F thermostat is probably the best performance choice. "

For coolant temperature - does it steadily rise with time or is it much more responsive to engine load and vehicle speed?
 
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Discussion Starter #23
I got than info from a Tmoss Veryuseful article - I don't have a reason to believe it's wrong but then again it is anecdotal evidence from a free article on the internet and could have a little error here and there.

From the article:
"In graphing the parameters of thousands of data samples during closed loop operation, we have seen the EEC go into closed loop at a temperature less than 170°F since Rick Wagner sent more data from the last revision. When temperature gets to 190°F, the A9L EEC pulls 2° of timing, so a 180°F thermostat is probably the best performance choice. "

For coolant temperature - does it steadily rise with time or is it much more responsive to engine load and vehicle speed?
It seems to be linear. I don’t see quick jumps or drops in temp. Under load it’ll rise some and then after driving it seems to cool some but has yet to get over the 210 mark while driving.


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91 GT, 302 with twisted wedge heads, XE270HR-12 cam, track heat intake, 30 lb injectors
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That makes me think it likely isn't trapped air, otherwise the temperature would be rising and falling fairly quickly with an overall upward trend due to erratic flow and heat disapation.

If you don't have access to a pressure testers but do some woodworking, you could always use a few wood clamps on the upper radiator hose to create some pressure to look for leaks. That worked for me to help discover a thermostat housing leak that was too small to puddle and also helped confirm trapped air due to the hose compressing a fair amount. If the system was liquid full there would be little hose compression.
 
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Discussion Starter #25
That makes me think it likely isn't trapped air, otherwise the temperature would be rising and falling fairly quickly with an overall upward trend due to erratic flow and heat disapation.

If you don't have access to a pressure testers but do some woodworking, you could always use a few wood clamps on the upper radiator hose to create some pressure to look for leaks. That worked for me to help discover a thermostat housing leak that was too small to puddle and also helped confirm trapped air due to the hose compressing a fair amount. If the system was liquid full there would be little hose compression.
Okay, good idea. I'll see what I can come up with this evening.
 

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I got than info from a Tmoss Veryuseful article - I don't have a reason to believe it's wrong but then again it is anecdotal evidence from a free article on the internet and could have a little error here and there.

From the article:
"In graphing the parameters of thousands of data samples during closed loop operation, we have seen the EEC go into closed loop at a temperature less than 170°F since Rick Wagner sent more data from the last revision. When temperature gets to 190°F, the A9L EEC pulls 2° of timing, so a 180°F thermostat is probably the best performance choice. "

For coolant temperature - does it steadily rise with time or is it much more responsive to engine load and vehicle speed?

just looked at a9l cal, WOT spark function vs ECT, 236 f= -2

most likely due to requirement of running 87 octane, if you run 87 then the 2 deg is not needed
 

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I know this seems TOO basic....put a new 15 or 16 pound cap on the radiator and see if the temps drop a few degrees.
I assume you have an overflow tank. If so, remember you want a regular cap, not one with the relief lever on it.
 

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27 posts before someone suggests the rad cap ? Sorry i just came upon this thread .
OP , have you checked/tested the cap to see what preasure it holds before bleeding off ?

Also with tooooooo cold of a thermostat the fluid in the radiator cannot be cooled fast enough . Thus leaving the 160 thermostat open all the time.
By going to a proper 180/185 /190/192 thermostat you will see far more constant temperatures as the thermostat and radiator can do the job of heat dissipation.

That coolant in your system is just at full on flow without spending enough time in the radiator to be cooled down .
 

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Discussion Starter #29
27 posts before someone suggests the rad cap ? Sorry i just came upon this thread .
OP , have you checked/tested the cap to see what preasure it holds before bleeding off ?

Also with tooooooo cold of a thermostat the fluid in the radiator cannot be cooled fast enough . Thus leaving the 160 thermostat open all the time.
By going to a proper 180/185 /190/192 thermostat you will see far more constant temperatures as the thermostat and radiator can do the job of heat dissipation.

That coolant in your system is just at full on flow without spending enough time in the radiator to be cooled down .
Agreed. I'll probably be installing the 180° t-stat back in pretty soon too. The cap is new but I may try another one and see if that works better or not. Thanks for the suggestions everyone!
 

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I read through the posts pretty closely and didn't see any mention of where you are sensing the coolant temperature for your fan controller. Is it a probe in the radiator fins or a screw-in probe that's actually in the coolant flow? I always had a difficult time getting the radiator fin type to work consistently which resulted in temperature spikes.
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
I read through the posts pretty closely and didn't see any mention of where you are sensing the coolant temperature for your fan controller. Is it a probe in the radiator fins or a screw-in probe that's actually in the coolant flow? I always had a difficult time getting the radiator fin type to work consistently which resulted in temperature spikes.
Yeah, it is set up in the water neck using a BMW thermocouple and a Volvo dual speed fan controller. I’m looking into using the PimpXS to control the fans now but that’ll need to be wired out off the ECU.


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91 GT, 302 with twisted wedge heads, XE270HR-12 cam, track heat intake, 30 lb injectors
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27 posts before someone suggests the rad cap ? Sorry i just came upon this thread .
OP , have you checked/tested the cap to see what preasure it holds before bleeding off ?

Also with tooooooo cold of a thermostat the fluid in the radiator cannot be cooled fast enough . Thus leaving the 160 thermostat open all the time.
By going to a proper 180/185 /190/192 thermostat you will see far more constant temperatures as the thermostat and radiator can do the job of heat dissipation.

That coolant in your system is just at full on flow without spending enough time in the radiator to be cooled down .
I agree a 160 degree thermostat is too cold and it will be difficult to achieve the 160 degrees setting without being wide open on a cold day, however I disagree with high flow reducing cooling performance. Higher flow through the radiator will only increase BTU removal. True the differential temperature between radiator inlet and outlet will drop due to decreased residence time, but the log-mean average temperature difference between the air and coolant will increase, improving heat rejection across the entire surface of the radiator and ultimately lowering engine temperatures. Stock coolant flow rates with stock radiators and fans are already approaching diminishing returns since the temperature difference is already down to about 20 deg-F so I wouldn't expect high flow water pumps to really help much unless everything else was upgraded (bigger engine, radiator, and fan). If cooling performance drops with higher coolant flow rates then something funky is going on, maybe pump cavitation.


EDIT: I just saw SWJ01's post came in a few seconds before I posted. I agree, but in a very long-winded fashion.
 
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I think the whole problem is the OP's "comfort level". There is nothing wrong with the car other than his perception of what is normal and what is not. If the factory gauge is in the "normal" area, then it is normal. It does not matter if it is on the high side of normal or the low side of normal....it is still normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I think the whole problem is the OP's "comfort level". There is nothing wrong with the car other than his perception of what is normal and what is not. If the factory gauge is in the "normal" area, then it is normal. It does not matter if it is on the high side of normal or the low side of normal....it is still normal.
Well the biggest problem is that the factory gauge doesn’t work well and was pegged over the 270 mark and the first time it freaked me out. There’s also no “normal” setting on the digital output that is running upper 190’s to around 210. There lies the concern that I had. After hearing some of the other perspectives, I’m not as concerned at this point. Thanks for the response.


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Do you know what temperature the setup kicks the fans on? Watching TunerPro, not the factory gauge?
And...you mentioned the Volvo two speed setup. Are you getting high speed for certain?
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Do you know what temperature the setup kicks the fans on? Watching TunerPro, not the factory gauge?
And...you mentioned the Volvo two speed setup. Are you getting high speed for certain?
I’m not for certain what temps they are coming on from inside TunerStudio. I’ll see if I can get that info soon. As far as the Volvo controller is concerned...I have verified that the high speed side is working as it should.


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