[Roullette]

I read on maximum motor sports website that the 94-95 spindles are ideal for a stock k member due to bump steer. I have a maximum motor sport k member that I plan on swapping over to my notchback. It may not be for a few months. One question is will the 96+ spindles be that bad for normal street driving on the stock k member?

Other question is, is there a difference between a 94 GT spindle vs a v6 spindle?

 

[kjb302ho]

the height of the tie rod arm.

 

[Mikes85&99]

I'm pretty sure 94GT spindles are the same as 94 v6 spindles. The tie rod arm height is different in the 96+ spindles.

Visual identification of Mustang front spindles

 

[Roullette]

I'm pretty sure 94GT spindles are the same as 94 v6 spindles. The tie rod arm height is different in the 96+ spindles.

Visual identification of Mustang front spindles

Perfect! can’t believe I didn’t see that on their site.

If you where in my shoes would you get the newer 96+ ones knowing your going to install the MM k member at some point?

 

[Roullette]

I would like to I get the 96+ ones since MM recommends them on their k member I just don’t want to buy them if the car is in drivable due to bump steer till I put their k member in

 

[pkstang]

i thought you already installed the mm k-member?

Engine tilting

Just noticed this when installing the transmission. The motor seems to be about 1/2” leaning towards the passenger side. The transmission crossmember didn’t line up with the mounting bracket so i had to shift it a little bit towards the driver side but it was a side to side movement not a...

forums.corral.net

 

[Roullette]

I have two foxbodys. Ones a hatch and just picked up a notch. Unfortunately I’m swapping it all over to the notch this spring. Imo the notch is wa nicer looking and only out of pocket at this point is the paint job on the hatch.
I would put the k member on right away but I don’t think that’s going to be possible without pulling the engine and I really don’t want the notch out of commission for a long period of time

that’s why I want to get the SN95 spindles for the 96+ but I read on MM that the bump steer is bad. If it’s drivable I’ll get the 96+ spindles for the stock k member and the bump steer can be corrected once I transfer over the k member. Or I just get the 94-95 spindles since they seem to work on both stock and Mm k member. Only thing is the 94-95 seem harder to come across in my area

that’s why I asked what would you guys do in my shoes

 

[Mikes85&99]

I have no experience driving a SN95 96+ spindle with stock k member, so don't risk anything based on my reply. Having said that I would think it's not going to be all that bad, and i wonder if using a bump steer kit would get you close enough to good enough. I just bough 94/95 sn95 spindles for my build since i'm not going to do the k member. But while I was shopping I noticed LMR only sells 96+ spindles since I'm thinking the 94/95's are harder to come by. Maybe give them a call or email and ask about the bump steer issue?

Fox Body 5 Lug Conversion for 94-04 Cobra Brakes | DIY

If i were you and i was planning on swapping the k member i would have gone 96+ and just carefully tested it to see what the bump steer actually felt like. But I bet I would have been nervous about it until I actually drove the car.

 

[Roullette]

Well that’s exactly correct. The LMR one is 96+. I have an entire wilwood kit which should work but the spindle uses the stock 93 one and has the packing grease nut. So what happens is the hub sticks out too far for the cobra rims I bought. I don’t want to dick around with spacers and longer bolts. I just want to upgrade the spindles to SN95. The backs are all set with wilwood ones and I have the cobra master cylinder to complete the 5 lug.

im with you onjust going the 96+ route. But if the 94-95 fits with no bump steer issues all around (MM and stock k member) I rather go that route. I read that post you linked before but I’m relying on MM website saying the bumpster is uncorrectable and that no kit can fix it. Then it says that the 96+ is best match for the MM k member.

All im wondering is if the 96+ can be driven for 5-6 months on a stock k member and then swap over the MM k member. Can’t imagine it’s drivable if MM mentions it. Was hoping someone has done the 96+ spindles on their stock k member. Looks like I’m going to have to Guinea pig this experiment

 

[SNK VNM]

My notch was 5 lug swapped using 96 up spindles when I bought it. I drove it for 6 months or so without issue. I eventually swapped to 94/95 spindles when I did a bunch of suspension work. The only reason I swapped was 1 I was already taking it all apart, and 2 I wanted to pull the wheels in further as the 96 up push them out a bit more than 94/95. (8 millimeters or so if I recall correctly.)

Spindles are the same between V6 and V8 cars.

If you want a set of 96 up spindles, I'll sell you the ones I took of my car. $25 bucks and whatever shipping costs. I am out of town until the 1st week of January so I cant ship them until I get back.

Regardless for your plans, I see no issues running 96 spindles.

 

[qtrracer]

Send a question to MM whether the 96+ spindle will work on a stock K with little or correctable bump steer. Assuming they advise against it, buy the 94/95 spindles and run them until you do the K. then buy the 96+ and sell the 94/95s. People are still looking for them - I just sold my old 94/95 spindles a couple of months ago.

 

[Jack Hidley]

This issue and why it is unfixable is covered in the post below.

1996 spindles on a fox

That is very true and could be the case, they also say that you should never run polyurethane bushings in your rear upper control arms. They say it causes severe binding but yet there are countless companies who sell uppers with the poly bushings. Probably trying to push their torque arm setups...

forums.corral.net

 

[pkstang]

I have two foxbodys. Ones a hatch and just picked up a notch. Unfortunately I’m swapping it all over to the notch this spring. Imo the notch is wa nicer looking and only out of pocket at this point is the paint job on the hatch.
I would put the k member on right away but I don’t think that’s going to be possible without pulling the engine and I really don’t want the notch out of commission for a long period of time

that’s why I want to get the SN95 spindles for the 96+ but I read on MM that the bump steer is bad. If it’s drivable I’ll get the 96+ spindles for the stock k member and the bump steer can be corrected once I transfer over the k member. Or I just get the 94-95 spindles since they seem to work on both stock and Mm k member. Only thing is the 94-95 seem harder to come across in my area

that’s why I asked what would you guys do in my shoes

what i would do is focus on the 1st project and get it done and running and then do the swap,

especially since you stated in another thread that it was over your head, and

now you're adding more chaos into it

 

[Roullette]

what i would do is focus on the 1st project and get it done and running and then do the swap,

especially since you stated in another thread that it was over your head, and

now you're adding more chaos into it

I appreciate your input. Like I said earlier I’m not doing it right away. I already know I can’t swap my current spindles over cause the fitment sucks on the hatch.
The part that I bit off more than I can chew is you read all these 351w swap forums. Pages and pages of bickering between people and what works. I bought a Ford 427 create motor with z2 heads figuring that the standard 351w swap parts on multiple sites will work and they don’t. I have different clearances to meet and I’m over all frustrated. I’m 20k alone in engine and transmission parts. But I won’t be giving up. Your 100% correct. Once I get everything fitted in the hatch it’s being transferred over. I’m not going to have two shells sitting at my house

 

[kruiser]

I used '01 spindles with a stock k-member that I modified the control arm mounts according to the Mathis book (essentially moves them inboard 3/4" and up 1/2"). I am using a stock tie rod and no bump steer alignment issues.



Essentially the line through inner tie rod pivot through outer tie rod pivot is near parallel to line through control arm mounts to ball joint pivot. The lengths are almost the same so the swing arcs are very close, so no bumpsteer problem.

 

[7-UP BILL]

I'm looking for a pair of V6 or V8 rear caliper brackets. nobody wants to sell. anybody here have 'em?

 

[nickb]

To op you can take k member out with engine in place, you'll need a tool Harbor freight has,it straddles the inner fenders and keeps engine held up.

 

[Flade]

I'm looking for a pair of V6 or V8 rear caliper brackets. nobody wants to sell. anybody here have 'em?

I’ll have a set when I switch my rear to Cobra mounts.

 

[Mustang5L5]

rockauto.com has the caliper brackets pretty cheap.

 

[TaraFirma]

For a short period of time, I would go with the 96+ spindles on the stock K-member. Mine is not a daily driver though. If you are absolutely sure you will be puttting on the MM K-member, I say go for it. That being said, You ABSOLUTELY WILL have uncorrectable bump steer with the 96+ spidles on a stock geometry K-member. It can be corrected to a point, but not 100%