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Discussion Starter #1
How do you guys re-torque the lower intake manifold with the coolant edit: transfer tube in the way?
There doesn’t look like there’s any other way around removing it
 

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I have always torqued the intake before that tube gets installed. How did you torque it the first time if you are re-torqueing it?
 

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Crowfoot will fit. I asked the same thing a few weeks back and there are differing opinions on whether this needs to be done. Most people I know do it once after a couple heat cycles. Since my engine is coming back apart again I'm going to modify the bracket to allow easier access to the stud.
 

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There’s absolutely nothing you can hurt by retorquing the lower. It’s a good idea after the first heat cycle. If it doesn’t take any torque then it should be good after that. If it does, I like to check it again after a few more.

Usually I can weasel in a 1/4in u joint and get everything snugged down. No real need to use a torque wrench as long as they’re all consistent.
 

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Crowfoot will fit. I asked the same thing a few weeks back and there are differing opinions on whether this needs to be done. Most people I know do it once after a couple heat cycles. Since my engine is coming back apart again I'm going to modify the bracket to allow easier access to the stud.
If you are using a torque wrench the crows foot will not give a correct value. Using a ratchet, not a problem.
 

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If you are using a torque wrench the crows foot will not give a correct value. Using a ratchet, not a problem.

it will if you use a ratio of the distance

simple algebra
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I did it the hard way and removed the tube. The only real pita is having to burp the cooling system again. Oh well.
 

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I dont retorque.

Truthfully, I dont TQ the initial assembly either. To me its easy to tell when the manifold fasteners are tightened enough.
 

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If a crow's foot, or torque adapter is at a 90 degree angle to the beam of a torque wrench, no torque correction is required. Different correction values will be required if the tool is facing forwards or backwards from the torque wrench beam, one direction causes the effective handle length to be longer, the other shorter. 90 degree orientation neither increases or decreases effective handle length.

Jay
 

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I just use a short 3/8" ratchet hand-tight for re-torque. Using the initial torque specs after heat cycling is too much IMO. Also, AFR recommends hand tight.
 

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I just use a short 3/8" ratchet hand-tight for re-torque. Using the initial torque specs after heat cycling is too much IMO. Also, AFR recommends hand tight.
Same method I use, I never use a torque wrench on the intake. Above information might come in handy for a guy torqueing badly placed bolts using a torque adapter. I had to go that route tightening driveshaft bolts to diff on an IRS using the smaller diameter pinion flange. There was good reason Ford made a larger OD flange for the '03, '04 models.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I just use a short 3/8" ratchet hand-tight for re-torque. Using the initial torque specs after heat cycling is too much IMO. Also, AFR recommends hand tight.
I have been fighting with intake manifold gasket thicknesses. Leaking/ports not lining up. Maybe because I had to go with a thicker gasket Ed told me to follow factory torque specs and sequences.
This is my first build and I myself didn’t want to screw anything up with my idea of hand tight.
 

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I have been fighting with intake manifold gasket thicknesses. Leaking/ports not lining up. Maybe because I had to go with a thicker gasket Ed told me to follow factory torque specs and sequences.
This is my first build and I myself didn’t want to screw anything up with my idea of hand tight.
First time torquing cold, I go with about 2/3 of the recommended torque. I've been spooked ever since I stretched a stainless (granted it was low-grade) bolt to failure. I have a Supervic with 12-point ARP bolts and a special swivel socket that lets me re-tighten the bolts without removing anything, even those under the elbow. Note that I use that slimy gray anti-seize junk on the threads! So, say Ford recommends 22-24 lb-ft for iron heads, 18 lb-ft for aluminum heads, I will go to say 12 lb-ft in 3 steps, then tighten hand tight after a couple heat cycles. This is my best compromise between AFRs recommendation and my best intuition.
 
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I also always retorque the lower after heat cycles. Before I converted to ARP studs, I was able to get the pipes to slide up and over that one OEM “stud” thing.

Once you get more comfortable with the install, you’ll likely not use a torque wrench either. I prefer to “feel“ it tighten correctly. Cougar’s advice of stages is excellent.
 

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I have been fighting with intake manifold gasket thicknesses. Leaking/ports not lining up. Maybe because I had to go with a thicker gasket Ed told me to follow factory torque specs and sequences.
This is my first build and I myself didn’t want to screw anything up with my idea of hand tight.
With something like a 1262r you need to retorque a good 5 or 6 times before everything will be nice and flat. Just keep going until no fastener will rotate at all when proper torque is applied.
 
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Discussion Starter #19
With something like a 1262r you need to retorque a good 5 or 6 times before everything will be nice and flat. Just keep going until no fastener will rotate at all when proper torque is applied.
I definitely followed that advice the last time around. The first couple times I installed the intake I felt as though I would’ve stripped out the threads if I kept going like that.

Some bolts would reach torque with the same amount of distance turned. While others would require two or three turns and that’s when I started to get worried and stopped.

I knew a torque wrench wasn’t required but I needed some consistency since I don’t quite know what to feel for.

First time torquing cold, I go with about 2/3 of the recommended torque. I've been spooked ever since I stretched a stainless (granted it was low-grade) bolt to failure. I have a Supervic with 12-point ARP bolts and a special swivel socket that lets me re-tighten the bolts without removing anything, even those under the elbow. Note that I use that slimy gray anti-seize junk on the threads! So, say Ford recommends 22-24 lb-ft for iron heads, 18 lb-ft for aluminum heads, I will go to say 12 lb-ft in 3 steps, then tighten hand tight after a couple heat cycles. This is my best compromise between AFRs recommendation and my best intuition.
all torquing was done while engine was cold. I went to 18 foot pounds for the initial torque drove it for a while and noticed that the intake was pulling air from the lifter valley. Don’t know why but I could see the stock oil pressure gauge going down whenever I would get into it. Once I retort everything to 22 foot pounds I’ve put about 100 miles on the car and nothing has loosened up....yet🤞🏼
 

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With something like a 1262r you need to retorque a good 5 or 6 times before everything will be nice and flat. Just keep going until no fastener will rotate at all when proper torque is applied.
Yep. My cobra lower took that many times as well. And I have ARP fasteners.
 
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