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I'd say that the pistons most likely differ from factory if sticking out of the hole that far. The clearances you mentioned are with the piston .009 out of the hole? Just making sure.
 

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Yeah, I measured everything when I took off the E7TE heads, again this is a remanufactured Blueprint 5.0 HO replacement longblock so the pistons are not OEM, but they state they are OE equivalent block is .040 over and more than likely decked

The cam is custom FTI also so I imagine Ed chose valve events that help everything clear also.
here is a vid of the shortblock with pistons in plain view. They are just .040 over hypereutectic OE equilvalent Sealed Power or something of that nature.
 

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Yeah, I measured everything when I took off the E7TE heads, again this is a remanufactured Blueprint 5.0 HO replacement longblock so the pistons are not OEM, but they state they are OE equivalent block is .040 over and more than likely decked

The cam is custom FTI also so I imagine Ed chose valve events that help everything clear also.
here is a vid of the shortblock with pistons in plain view. They are just .040 over hypereutectic OE equilvalent Sealed Power or something of that nature.
I thought this video would feature the Promaxx heads? I thought you were giving me the clearances using the Promaxx head. Nevermind. I just watched the other video. It doesn't take much to confuse me these days. Lol.
 

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I have a set of these Pro Maxx # 9175 I wanted to try out on my blueprint remanufactured 5.0 HO shortblock with stock replacement pistons, FTI 223/227 @ .050 cam, mine had .080 clearance on the intake, over .100 on the exhaust, ran 11.80 with them Saturday. Not my personal best , but first time out with this combo.

a couple Youtube links from the head swap and at the track.


I'd say they are hard to beat for the money, not at all sorry I purchased them as I wanted a nice set of backup heads to be able to engine swap with no downtime.
What did you do for a clutch stop? Also; I recommend the 1262 S3 intake gaskets. The 1262 gaskets have a habit of leaking at the water ports and sucking oil from the lifter valley straight into the lower intake.
 

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I welded a nut onto the clutch pedal leg and just used a 2-3" bolt with another stop nut to adjust where I want the clutch pedal to depress to.

I just use both because they are different thickness sometimes one will line up the intake ports to the heads better than the other. if I can use the 1262 -S3 I will , I do like that gasket better
 
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I thought this video would feature the Promaxx heads? I thought you were giving me the clearances using the Promaxx head. Nevermind. I just watched the other video. It doesn't take much to confuse me these days. Lol.
no problem, just wanted to show what pistons are in the engine, just stock OE equivalents
 

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I welded a nut onto the clutch pedal leg and just used a 2-3" bolt with another stop nut to adjust where I want the clutch pedal to depress to.

I just use both because they are different thickness sometimes one will line up the intake ports to the heads better than the other. if I can use the 1262 -S3 I will , I do like that gasket better
Where does your clutch pedal release? Near the top? I use the Maximum Motorsports clutch cable, adjuster and quadrant. My clutch releases near the top of the pedals travel. It has me thinking that if I use a Clutch Tamer; it would waist time pushing the pedal fully to the floor. I only need to push it 1/3 of the way down at a guess.
 

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my clutch releases about 1/3 of the way out, I'm just getting started with it but there are two adjustments you can make , the initial hit you set to the spot where your clutch starts to grab then the second adjustment controls how fast it's fully engaged, the pedal stop is just for consistent starting point of the pedal

you can read up on it here


Grant (the owner) has been kind enough to let me send over my datalogs and suggest adjustment to make.
 

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my clutch releases about 1/3 of the way out, I'm just getting started with it but there are two adjustments you can make , the initial hit you set to the spot where your clutch starts to grab then the second adjustment controls how fast it's fully engaged, the pedal stop is just for consistent starting point of the pedal

you can read up on it here


Grant (the owner) has been kind enough to let me send over my datalogs and suggest adjustment to make.
What cable, adjuster and quadrant do you use?
Grant occasionally posts here. I've read his website multiple times as I plan on buying one. I like the concept.
 

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Ok, yeah wasn't sure if you had visited the site, but obviously he can answer your questions better than I.

Cable is stock replacement, quadrant and adjuster are UPR. Nothing fancy.
 

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Ok, yeah wasn't sure if you had visited the site, but obviously he can answer your questions better than I.

Cable is stock replacement, quadrant and adjuster are UPR. Nothing fancy.
That may explain the pedal release height difference.
 

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Probably, but I hear the MM clutch cable is pretty nice, just couldn't afford it when I did my T5 swap, figured I could upgrade to that one when this stocker wears out!
 
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