Why do you want to use that transmission?

 

Yea there should be check ATI transmissions they're great with the sbf.

 

My Performance Automatics Super Comp manual valvebody 3 speed C4 is rated to take 1000 hp and came with a lifetime warranty, so unless you're planning on making more power than that, you're better off going with one of those and saving yourself the headaches that come with figuring out how to stuff a 2 speed powerglide tranny in a Ford.

A guy I know built a 408 with a 91mm Turbo at 14 psi... his goal was to lay down 1200rwhp. He went with a powerglide because he thought his engine would be too much for a C4... and I agreed. Problem is, he didn't meet his goal of 1200 hp... he only managed 879 hp... so a C4 would more than likely have been fine handling that hp. I still don't knock him for going with the glide because after he works the bugs out of his set up and gets some more dyno time, he's probably going to meet his goal. Here's a vid of his pulls BTW.

So, once again, unless you're planning on building something that radical, don't waste your time with a glide... just go with a built C4 and enjoy having an extra gear to boot.






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My Performance Automatics Super Comp manual valvebody 3 speed C4 is rated to take 1000 hp and came with a lifetime warranty, so unless you're planning on making more power than that, you're better off going with one of those and saving yourself the headaches that come with figuring out how to stuff a 2 speed powerglide tranny in a Ford.

A guy I know built a 408 with a 91mm Turbo at 14 psi... his goal was to lay down 1200rwhp. He went with a powerglide because he thought his engine would be too much for a C4... and I agreed. Problem is, he didn't meet his goal of 1200 hp... he only managed 879 hp... so a C4 would more than likely have been fine handling that hp. I still don't knock him for going with the glide because after he works the bugs out of his set up and gets some more dyno time, he's probably going to meet his goal. Here's a vid of his pulls BTW.

879 HP Turbo Mustang on dyno - YouTube

So, once again, unless you're planning on building something that radical, don't waste your time with a glide... just go with a built C4 and enjoy having an extra gear to boot.
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Just because PA rates there C4s to 1k dont mean they are going to take that. I broke my super comp twice. After the second time I said F-that to this hunk of crap. They honered there warrenty with no issues, just my $500 to ship it to and from. On the second time I tore it open, rebuilt it and sold it. And I figure my car to be 800ish HP. C4s do not belong in any seriously powerfull car. By design they are weak. Not saying a glide is the right choice, but it can be in the right set up, and your buddy with 800hp can easily take advantage of a glide with that car, at that power level.

 

First of all, what power level are you shooting for Op. That is a big factor when choosing a glide over a 3 speed. Second what is the weight of your car? If you plan to have a 400hp 3500lb fox, you aint going to have a good time with the glide. Is your glide going to be an auto shift or a race prepped unit with full manual?

You can mount it up with the factory bell if you use a mid plate/adapter plate. This is going to require some beating of the sheet metal, and it will also require you to run a flex plate shield as well as a trans shield. That wont fit a fox with out mega hammering. You will need a custom convertor to account for the mid plate, and a pilot adapter.

The benifets of running a JW ultra bell far outweigh the mid plate. The ultra bell will require a crank adapter also from JW, and you can use your existing flex plate if you have your convertor built as a hybred unit. A chebby vertor with ford mounting pattern. This will require a custom vertor $$$$$. The JW is SFI 30.1 cert so there is no need to have a flex plate shield. No mid plate is needed. no beating around the tunnel for the bell either.

I used a JW the wheel with chevy bolt pattern for my flex plate. This alows any chevy convertor to fit to a SBF. It uses the same crank adapter regardless of convertor mounting pattern.

For the tail, I have a custom made solid mount, but you can also use your factory dbl hump cross member and T5 mount. You need to knock the tack welds off the tubes and slide the CM back until it lines up with the mounting points on the glide. Some people have to add height to the mount and others dont. It depends who's mount you have.

You need a new drive shaft, and shifter. If your keeping your glide auto shift, you will have to find a way to hook up the TV cable. Lokar has some cables that could help.

FWIW I simply cut the cheb bell off my glide with a sawsall and then used an angle grinder with a cut off disk to remover the rest of it. you will also need to cut off the tabs on either side of the glide as it wont fit the fox tunnel. you will require a little beating around the shift lever area in the tunnel. I cut a small chunk of the tunnel out of mine so I can access the band adjusting screw with out having to jack up the car and crawl under it. I just rivited it in place and use a piece of tape to hold it closed.

 

First off..I speak with experience.

You don't want an adapter plate. They are lots of trouble. Starter engagement, getting everything indexed properly is a chore, and the amount of time and money spent making it work is usually not worth the trouble. Not to mention a stock powerglide bellhousing is not the strongest bellhousing in the world. Notorious for cracks.

I would highly suggest a bellhousing style adapter, the kind where the OEM powerglide housing is removed totally. This way you usually don't have alignment issues. Also don't have starter problems and the bellhousing adapter is typically SFI approved which kills 2 birds with one stone. Some people don't like them, however, due to the fact that the pump bolts hold the pump in AND hold the bell to the pump/case. Big deal. There's 7 bolts all are 5/16"...it's plenty strong and rated for something like 2000 HP from what I'm told. Beyond those power levels I'd be looking at a full SFI case with the SBF bellhousing...they're available with all poplular bellhousings from Mopar, VW, SBF, Ford Modulars, etc. I used an Ultrabell after screwing around with adapter plates. Totally easy and it removed the stock cracked PG bellhousing.

Finally, those who say a PG isn't worth having, most of ya haven't run one in a dedicated drag car. For a street car, a PG SUCKS-no doubts about it. You want 3 or more speeds for anything that's goign to be run on the street. But for drag racing, the PG is very hard to beat. Tough. Dependable. Cheap to build/rebuild, easy to build/rebuild at home. Easy to diagnose problems if there is any. Repeatable. Good for turbo cars. Good for bracket cars. Good for all out heads up cars that must run an auto trans. Good for cars under 3000 lbs. Good for cars over 3000 lbs too if the converter it set up properly. Once again...speaking from experiences. Ran C4's for many years. Tried a 'Glide in 1998 and never went back to the trusty 3 speed. Have run the PG's in footbrake, transbrake, low HP, lower HP, big tires, small tires, light car, heavy car, 2 gears, high gear only and lots in between. It's always been a better transmission for drags. Tried one on a street car...and yes they suck on the street with no OD and that 1.82/1.76 first gear (close to the same SECOND gear ratio in a 3 speed auto).

There is a reason you see more PG's at the drags than any other type trans....

 

well said... BUT... I love my 'glide on the street. sometimes i even forget to pull it back into low at a stoplight and take off in high... no biggie, the car leaves a lil soft, but hey.. no shift necessary. LOL but seriously if you have as much in your stall as u do the 'glide, it will be satisfactory on the street and a complete animal on the strip. light car, good stall= bada$$ glide experience. BTW I run a TSI (Don Stanley built) glide with a brake, JW bellhousing and "wheel" flexplate, and an ATI 10" blown/fuel converter... no complaints yet.