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Discussion Starter #1
I've done a 302 efi engine swap into a e36 bmw. I'm running into hood clearance issues with my gt40p intake and tps.

First, I have tw heads and valve covers. I'm using lunatic 1.6 rr and tfs1 cam. I have to use a 3/8 spacer so my intake doesnt hit my valve covers. I've read that stock covers may work and that I will have to remove the baffle and grind the boss down. Is this correct? Anyone have testament to this?

Even without the spacer the TPS hitting my hood. May be able to trim the bracing, but can a sn95 45* adapter elbow be at all used on the gt40p intake WITH a fox throttle body? From the pics I've seen online the Elbow looks like it will drop the Tb position down. I would still use my original egr spacer (its deleted anyways) to bring the whole thing out and it looked like I'd have to make some block off plates or plug some holes in the adapter peice. I guess I'm asking if a 75mm foxbody throttle body bolt to the Tb side of this peice or remotely close, not afraid of a little drilling, grinding or tapping.

There are zero aftermarket hoods for my chasis with scoops or cowls and a i cant find a universal scoop that looks decent. I already chopped up an extra hood to see how itd look to make my own cowl. But it ruins the body lines.

Disregard the hack cuts on the hood in the 3rd photo, it was a junk hood I used to just see how a cowl the tall would loon on my car.

Any help is appreciated.
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Do you have room to lower the engine?

I feel your pain. I have a SBF in a Datsun 260Z. The top of the throttle body is always the closest point to the hood.
Have you tried using the thin EGR delete between the intake and the throttle body? This moves the throttle body inboard by ~1.5 inches. On mine that provides extra clearance.


The EGR delete also gives more clearance between the valve cover and throttle body, so you may be able to remove the spacer between the upper and lower intake.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That is a very clean z and nice swap from what I can see.

That delete plate will for sure help my tps clearence. Hadn't considered this. I'll have to mock it up and see if my throttle linkage sits. That would still leave a clearence issue with the manifold and hood. If i take the spacer out the vaccum T under the intake on driver side hits my valve cover.

On a side note 74_5.0l_z, how did you do your throttle cable and how it actuated your TB blade? I ended up using a suzuki samurai I believe it was cable and the cam pull from the e36 engine on the tb. I dont have a throttle stop screw and rely on the cable tension to keep the blade from sticking and I think its contributing to my idle issue.
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I may be able to cut the oe stop from the bmw part but I think its a non ferrous alloy. I'll have to check again.

Thankyou.
 

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With the stock 86-93 valve covers you can remove the baffle and grind out the flange inside there to clear your roller rockers but without that baffle depending on your engine and how many miles oil may get sucked up into the throttle body through the vent tube and you might get a bit of oil in your upper intake. If you have a phenolic 3/8" spacer and you can run those through a wood planer with carbide blades and you can take that 3/8" in spacer and mill it down to 1/4" to get it exactly the height you need to clear everything give you another 1/8" at least. I've even milled one down to 3/16" but didn't try going any thinner than that.
 

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You could use a '94-'95 elbow and throttle body. That would make the mating area of the elbow and manifold as the highest point, the elbow drops down as it turns, and the throttle linkage is on the side rather than the top. Hood clearance was at a premium with the SN cars.

I reread your original post and realize that you asked about using a Fox TB with the SN elbow. Why would you not want to use an SN TB?
Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You could use a '94-'95 elbow and throttle body. That would make the mating area of the elbow and manifold as the highest point, the elbow drops down as it turns, and the throttle linkage is on the side rather than the top. Hood clearance was at a premium with the SN cars.

I reread your original post and realize that you asked about using a Fox TB with the SN elbow. Why would you not want to use an SN TB?
Jay
If I use the sn tb and I'm researching right I'll need the elbow, tb, new iac, tps and then the harness adapters or pig tails for iac and tps . Would probably end up being around 600. Not completely out of question though
 

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I use the Mustang throttle cable. I ran it through the firewall in the appropriate place. I had to modify the stock 260Z throttle pedal to accept the Mustang cable end.

The stock 260Z pedal has an adjustable pedal stop on the floor pan / firewall. If I remember correctly, I modified this slightly.

I have had several SBF engine combinations in this car. Until recently, I used Ford Motorsport 1.7 pedestal mount roller rockers under the stock valve covers. I did remove the driver's side baffle and do a small amount of grinding to get them to clear the rocker arms. Now I have 7/16" Stud mounted roller rockers with polylocks, so I had to look for different valve covers that clear the polylocks and also clear the intake. I ended up using the Holley Sniper fabricated aluminum valve covers. They clear valvetrain and still provide intake clearance.


If you get these valve covers take the hardware that comes with them and throw it in a garbage can. Other than the hardware, I was happy.
 

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If I can find a Fox throttle body (I know there is one somewhere in the garage) I will check, but I think the IAC and TPS are interchangeable between them.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I appreciate guys. I work midnight's so I'm out in the shop tinkering. After doing some measuring I maybe able to remove the unused 90* vac fitting that's hitting the ds VC , plug it and then I think the tee in the rear will just clear that VC. I cant use a 3/8 Tb spacer, throttle linkage to close to heater tubes. Sweet spot maybe 1" spacer. Hopefully I'll know in a bit. Guess I should reflash my valves while all this is off, little noisy.
 

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Yeah I need them here in Missouri atleast for my defrost for foggy mornings.

Well ice got it damn near shut. I'll definitely have to trim some of the bracing. Took my 3/8 phenolic spacer out. Removed the 90* vac fitting tapped 1/8 npt and plugged.
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The tee had atleast a sheet of paper of clearence between it and the vc before torquing, after it touches. I'll have to see if I can remove that fitting, see how thick the head of it is. Perhaps clearence it, cant go alot it is under a fair bit of vac. Maybe chase the threads and and see if I can get another turn out of her.

I'll have to trim some bracing above the tps, specifically the vac fitting by it. I already heated it up and turned it to minimize cutting.

I now have another question that I couldnt find much info on. Say I clock the throttle body 90* with tps on the side and iac on the bottom.
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Would that be feasible? The tps and throttle linkage isnt going to care, the IAC may be a different story. I wouldn't think so but could. Theoretically with the blade opening horizontally side to side vs up right could cause flow dynamic issue or atleast difference.

Any experience, thoughts or suggestions?

Oh, I have a throttle stop now so that's cool.
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For that Vac port I used a allen head screw that I slathered with thread sealant and put it in flush to the boss. Worked well. On the Vac T at the rear of the plenum, I used a couple sanding disks to clearance the bottom of the T. There is a lot of meat there you can grind off. I'm using stock foxbody valve covers with a modified baffle. There were 1 or 2 other spot that the outside of the valve covers needed a little slimming. Did that and then got them powdercoated and they look great. Because I'm running SN95 front drive I had a little interference at the back of the alternator. More valve cover clearancing needed there. Of course I didn't realise that issue until after powdercoat.
 

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