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I was thinking about the DD unit

with all the hills, trees, everything else, doubt it would be worthwhile for me. I can't even get a cellphone to work properly most of the time, even when using the phone gps

also have a garmin unit I use for hunting and hiking and ATV'ing. Rare to get a good reliable signal unless on a hill top.
You don't need the gps bim for the DD speedo to work. The kit comes with plug you use to replace the old speedo cable. You patch into your current VSS sensor and that signal is used to calibrate the speedo.
 

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Recently bought a wiring kit from MAD electrical that includes relays for all my lights and properly kills the car for NHRA but you also don’t have the starter cable Energized except during starting.

5.0 Mustang Magazine and others have done write ups on this system.

 

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Here’s a cleaned up pic of the pedals. I have an idea how to modify or build the brake pedal to allow me to install the final pad with the MM hydroboost pedal. However, the priority is low as I need to get the car functional first

6284241A-3C69-4B7B-B9BF-1691223981D6.jpeg
 
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It’s a very silly opinion but I hate the way that pedal looks with all of my being lol. It’s the exposed hardware and skateboard grip tape that make it look like a hardware store special.

I have no doubt you will find a clean solution though
 

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I’ve already have an idea in my head on how to do it.

it’s just a little low on the list of things I need to get done

88781FE6-15DD-4DCA-BC80-B173DDC12AFC.jpeg
 

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Here’s a cleaned up pic of the pedals. I have an idea how to modify or build the brake pedal to allow me to install the final pad with the MM hydroboost pedal. However, the priority is low as I need to get the car functional first

View attachment 1066961
I have the same manual brake kit. You will need to trim the pad as close to the shape of the pedal cover as possible with out taking too much off. Then cover entire pad with 5 minute epoxy, quickly pry on the pedal cover and allow the epoxy to dry. I did this with both of my cars and it works great..
 

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Can you enlighten me on your front suspension setup?

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
Pretty much the entire MM catalog minus the front sway bat kit.

K-member plus a-arms (keep wheels in stock location)
The MM-spec "street" Bilstiens with 250# springs
MM caster/camber plates
MM Strut tower brake
MM steering shaft adapter with SN95 rack
MM bumpsteer kit
MM Hydroboost kit w/Baer Remaster master cylinder
Brand new SS brake lines, and SS brake hoses
ATS brembos up front, 43mm calipers out back

Bunch of MM suspension parts out back too


I had the coil overs previously. Car rode incredible with them.
 
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Pretty much the entire MM catalog minus the front sway bat kit.

K-member plus a-arms (keep wheels in stock location)
The MM-spec "street" Bilstiens with 250# springs
MM caster/camber plates
MM Strut tower brake
MM steering shaft adapter with SN95 rack
MM bumpsteer kit
MM Hydroboost kit w/Baer Remaster master cylinder
Brand new SS brake lines, and SS brake hoses
ATS brembos up front, 43mm calipers out back

Bunch of MM suspension parts out back too


I had the coil overs previously. Car rode incredible with them.
Awesome! I'd love to see the stance once everything is done.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
 

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Awesome! I'd love to see the stance once everything is done.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
Really the only thing new would be the k member. I’ve settled on at this height for daily cruising
 

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Really the only thing new would be the k member. I’ve settled on at this height for daily cruising
Looks very good. I'd like to upgrade my front suspension at some point to possibly coil overs. I have a irs out back.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using Tapatalk
 

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Here’s a non-performance thing I’m working on. I have a 90-93 black dash in my ‘88. I didn’t change out the dash frame (although I prob should) so I don’t have a good spot for the fuse box. (It’s mounted in the lower dash on the 87-89)

I can’t use the 90-93 metal dash mount, so I modeled up a mount in CAD, and 3D printed a few test pieces. I have one that fits pretty darn good, so I’m going to laser cut one out of steel and use it to mount the fuse box nicely under the dash where I can get to it. I also got a 91-93 fuse box cover for it.

I know nobody will ever see it, but I haven’t had a cleanly mounted fuse box in 20 years. It’s always just been tucked up.

08CEA4B0-FD18-4529-AD53-FF5C018F8537.jpeg
 

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Recently bought a wiring kit from MAD electrical that includes relays for all my lights and properly kills the car for NHRA but you also don’t have the starter cable Energized except during starting.
5.0 Mustang Magazine and others have done write ups on this system.
There's a lot of good tech articles on charging systems over there too!
 
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