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Research a Corvette pwm module, the LS crowd uses it for this application.
I use the same module on my car, works great. Can be found on some Lincolns and Mercedes as well. Pulled mine off of a Zephyr complete with a nice big high-flowing fan, got it for like $30.

Any reason not to use the pwm in the terminator x? Does this free up an output, or is it just a better way to do it?
The Terminator sends a low current PWM request signal, but something has to translate and amplify that signal into the high current source for the fans, similar to what a relay would do for a simple on/off fan. The ECU can't deal with the 40 or 80 or whatever amps that the fans actually draw, so the ECU drives a secondary device. It still decides when to turn the fans on and off, so you don't have a standalone external controller with external temperature sensors or anything.
 

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I use the same module on my car, works great. Can be found on some Lincolns and Mercedes as well. Pulled mine off of a Zephyr complete with a nice big high-flowing fan, got it for like $30.



The Terminator sends a low current PWM request signal, but something has to translate and amplify that signal into the high current source for the fans, similar to what a relay would do for a simple on/off fan. The ECU can't deal with the 40 or 80 or whatever amps that the fans actually draw, so the ECU drives a secondary device. It still decides when to turn the fans on and off, so you don't have a standalone external controller with external temperature sensors or anything.
Part of the genius of the Terminator is adaptability. You can control various secondary modules and keep input data all in one spot. Example, my cluster had seen better days, the plastic parts don’t have much life left. Eventually I’ll replace the factory cluster with a Dakota Digital unit. Dakota Digital now makes a BIM module that interfaces with the Terminator. The module communicates using Holley’s CAN bus. You will be able to output sensor data from Holly directly to the Dakota dash. Guys have already adapted knock sensors etc on sbf engines for boost, I’m sure there’s more to come since the platform is still fairly new.
 

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I've determined a solution as I really want to run this system. While a separate fan controller is a good option, it will be cheaper and easier to run the fans from the ecu as I won't have to buy a controller. The fans will be paired as one output but the plan is to run them together using pwm. This should decrease the initial draw of amps and will effectively allow the use of separate fan control.
I was running the dual Contour fans with a DCC controller/sensor before the Terminator x. Plan to keep it that way unless there is a reason not to. Car is about a week away from start.
 

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I was running the dual Contour fans with a DCC controller/sensor before the Terminator x. Plan to keep it that way unless there is a reason not to. Car is about a week away from start.
I had a DCC controller and contour fans in my car prior to installing my Terminator X. I had my controller and fans dialed in nicely, keeping the engine temp right where I wanted it, so I decided to leave the controller in place as it was. It leaves an output open for future add ons which is a bonus too. If I didn't already have the controller on the car and setup, I would of just used the Holley to control them for sure but didn't think it was worth messing with what was already working well.
 

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I kept my flex a lite controller as well. It runs fine so I’ve left it alone.
 

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I had a DCC controller and contour fans in my car prior to installing my Terminator X. I had my controller and fans dialed in nicely, keeping the engine temp right where I wanted it, so I decided to leave the controller in place as it was. It leaves an output open for future add ons which is a bonus too. If I didn't already have the controller on the car and setup, I would of just used the Holley to control them for sure but didn't think it was worth messing with what was already working well.
I was using the Dakota Digital fan controller for duel Contour fans, had no issues. I opted to add the Auto Meter Electric speed sensor (part # 5292) to my transmission for several reasons, I can control my fans to shut off at a specific speed or enable other outputs based on vehicle speed. It also comes in handy when programming shift points on auto transmissions. This specific speed sensor allows the use of the current cable drive so you maintain the stock speedometer.
 

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Anyone discounting the cost of the system yet?
Go to this site and this shop probably has the best deal on Holley parts you will find anywhere. Yes, you must put in your email to get access, but that’s why the prices are best around. From my research he only has LS stuff listed, so you’d be best off logging in then calling him (which you should do with any shop on a purchase like this). He works on lots of Fords, as well. Shop owner’s name is Glenn. Tell him “Feckless” sent you if you contact him.

 

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Good prices there ^
Finally finished turbo mockup ...Now on to the fuel system
I’ve got some FIC 60lb. In the tune he said their 650cc. Was super excited that they’re already in the base file.
Pulling the trigger on these, I did notice that in software the file list 525cc as 52lb injectors , which is correct .. I clicked on the 650cc and they were listed as 72lb and 775cc were listed as 84lb not sure why?
1059989
 

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Good prices there ^
Finally finished turbo mockup ...Now on to the fuel system

Pulling the trigger on these, I did notice that in software the file list 525cc as 52lb injectors , which is correct .. I clicked on the 650cc and they were listed as 72lb and 775cc were listed as 84lb not sure why? View attachment 1059989
It’s because they rate them as 4 bar in the Holley. It’s okay. Run it!
 

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Finally got the car started and idling. The idle issue was not the TPS but rather the IAC. I'm running Ford 36# injectors which are not listed in Holley's injector files. So we tried the 30# file at first but for some reason the IAC was not working well. Finally did a custom injector file and all went well - so far. Motor is brand new as are several drive-train pieces. Just need to finish some small stuff and then we can drive this thing - it's been nearly 6 years since last driven. Can't wait.
 

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Discussion Starter #194
I have FMS 36#ers, too. Care to share what settings you used? (I understand, use at my own risk, do my own homework to find out what works for my setup, etc etc... Just figured it would be good to have a starting point.)
 

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Finally got the car started and idling. The idle issue was not the TPS but rather the IAC. I'm running Ford 36# injectors which are not listed in Holley's injector files. So we tried the 30# file at first but for some reason the IAC was not working well. Finally did a custom injector file and all went well - so far. Motor is brand new as are several drive-train pieces. Just need to finish some small stuff and then we can drive this thing - it's been nearly 6 years since last driven. Can't wait.
There is a minor flaw in the base tune if you're using a 937F kit, the IAC isn't assigned correctly in the pin out. You have to drag it to the outputs manually. It's not really a flaw but it's a unique aspect to that wiring harness as it uses the PWM - output for the Ford IAC control. So make sure you check your output #4 is the IAC.

Also I highly suggest making an advanced table that uses engine temp over IAC adder. It helped cold start and warm up a TON for me. I add roughly 22% scaled down to 0 at around 135°. I can post some pictures if you'd like.
 

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I have FMS 36#ers, too. Care to share what settings you used? (I understand, use at my own risk, do my own homework to find out what works for my setup, etc etc... Just figured it would be good to have a starting point.)
I'll have to check. I didn't do the work but I'm sure the settings can be passed along.

There is a minor flaw in the base tune if you're using a 937F kit, the IAC isn't assigned correctly in the pin out. You have to drag it to the outputs manually. It's not really a flaw but it's a unique aspect to that wiring harness as it uses the PWM - output for the Ford IAC control. So make sure you check your output #4 is the IAC.

Also I highly suggest making an advanced table that uses engine temp over IAC adder. It helped cold start and warm up a TON for me. I add roughly 22% scaled down to 0 at around 135°. I can post some pictures if you'd like.
We tried calling Holley tech a few times but kept getting a "wait" message. Didn't know about the IAC thing until yesterday. The solution for us was to use the custom injector trims but I'll pass along your suggestion.
 

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I hate to say it but their actual tech help is terrible. I can’t get anyone on the phone. Most of the support I’ve had is from searching their forums. A guy named Danny over there is super knowledgable and just about any question he’s answered in outstanding detail with SBF’s. The beauty of this is it’s all open source and so many are running it. People are doing stuff with them Holley didn’t even know could be done. Hell I set mine up to activate my boost a pump at whenever kpa I want.
 

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Nitrous ssc can you show pictures of how your setting these inputs for the IAC. I’m messing around with this in the software on my laptop and I can’t drag this to the I/O..
Thanks!!
 

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Also I highly suggest making an advanced table that uses engine temp over IAC adder. It helped cold start and warm up a TON for me. I add roughly 22% scaled down to 0 at around 135°. I can post some pictures if you'd like.
Yes, please post pics. Thanks

Now we have a rad core leak (old aluminum) and the DCC fan controller is acting up. May need to run the fans with the Holley after all. Can't catch a break.
 

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1061040


For Qtrracer Here ya go. This is what works well for me, your results may very. :)
 
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