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Discussion Starter · #161 ·
that doesn't look good. what's the oil pressure doing?
OP is 30 to 55ish psi.
I sent a polite letter and pics to the shop that did the work, just so they’re in the loop.
 

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You cut the filter open and it was clean?

Wonder why all that stuff is in the pan, but nothing in the filter.

Did you cut out the filter pleats and separate and inspect?
 

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Discussion Starter · #164 ·
No, filter also had fine metal in it this time. I cut it open but didn’t unpleat it. I can though...I think it’s still in my garage garbage can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #166 ·
Hot idle was always in the lower range ....around 30. Higher rpm it would go higher.

I unpleated the filter and see a fair bit of silverish metal grains. Seems to be metallic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #168 ·
No plan yet till I figure out what’s going on.
This sucks, because as I far as I know I did everything right. And didn’t really cut any corners on this build.
 

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Discussion Starter · #169 ·
What else other than the oil filter and oil pressure sensor intrude on the oilling system? Oil filter adaptor is oem, but I am using an after market imperial to metric adaptor to use my miata oul pressure sensor. Possibly could be into the system too far and impeeding flow? I dunno...looking for idea’s.
I’m not going to spoil another summer fuching around with it....probably park it till fall.
 

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30 at hot idle is way more than enough. There is nothing impeding flow. The passages in these blocks are huge. You would need to stuff a boulder in one go stop flow. If the backside of the thrust is worn, its always something behind the engine, always. You should be able to take the belt off, grab the balancer and move the crank back and forth, even with musician arms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #172 · (Edited)
30 at hot idle is way more than enough. There is nothing impeding flow. The passages in these blocks are huge. You would need to stuff a boulder in one go stop flow. If the backside of the thrust is worn, its always something behind the engine, always. You should be able to take the belt off, grab the balancer and move the crank back and forth, even with musician arms.
Ok, I’m gonna pull the rad again (for room) and unhook the slave from the fork. If I can’t move the crank by hand, what next? Would that mean the main caps are over torqued?
As mentioned, input shaft clearance was checked and rechecked. It doesn’t move in or out depending on gear does it? (Never mind, I could feel my brain shrinking just asking that. )

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No it means something behind the engine is pushing the crank forward. You can put an engine on an engine dyno or run stand and run it for 1000 years straight and it will never hurt the thrust bearing, UNTIL you bolt a trans on it. I just try to be the voice of reason and discourage people from chasing boogeymen with regards to thrust bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #174 ·
No it means something behind the engine is pushing the crank forward. You can put an engine on an engine dyno or run stand and run it for 1000 years straight and it will never hurt the thrust bearing, UNTIL you bolt a trans on it. I just try to be the voice of reason and discourage people from chasing boogeymen with regards to thrust bearings.
I understand that. As you can see, the input shaft is not at issue, and if I take the slave off, there is nothing that CAN be pushing the crank forward. Is there? I don’t know for sure so I’m asking if I’m overlooking something. Anyways, the question is moot till I actually check it again.
Thanks Woody, and all.
 

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Just throwing this out there. I did not read through everything so if it's been mentioned apologies.
How much play/clearance does the slip yoke have at ride height?
Is it possible your drive shaft is pushing in on the transmission when you drive around?
 

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Discussion Starter · #176 ·
Is that a thing? The driveshaft can push the input shaft forward?
I’ve never heard of that before, but like I said, I’m here because I don’t know what the hell is happening with this.
 

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Is that a thing? The driveshaft can push the input shaft forward?
I’ve never heard of that before, but like I said, I’m here because I don’t know what the hell is happening with this.
Yep.
Not saying that is your problem, but it seems to me you've covered just about everything else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #178 · (Edited)
No sh!t? Well I’ll take a look at that tomorrow. From what I can remember there is a little less than half the spline length in the yoke but I will definitely check it out. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #179 ·
Maybe on to something here.
I found a pic of the previous pilot bearing that the new shop says was mangled. I never noticed before, but it appears to be chamfered on the inside where the ramp up to the splines on the input shaft may have shaved it.
ADF9B948-87A8-4ADA-A7C6-1079AB6D971A.jpeg

And here’s pics of the yoke area. There is about 3/4“ of shaft showing. Should there be more?

DFFCAEC4-1B17-4CBC-8F77-39D195EF91B2.jpeg 01169FAE-25C6-4D2B-BFF1-7FDA2B939A6D.jpeg
 

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The driveshaft can only push the input shaft forward by the amount of play setup in the input shaft (very little). The input shaft would then only push forward on the back of the crankshaft if there was no room for the end of the input shaft to slide deeper into the pilot bearing. So, I doubt that is the problem. But maybe...
 
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