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Discussion Starter · #181 ·
Yeah there is definitely enough room/clearance inside the crank (the hole is longer than the snout of the input shaft)....I was wondering if the part that ramps up to the splines is maybe contacting the pilot bearing. That could push on the crank.
But from what I’m reading online the spec is 3/4” to 1” of DS visible so I doubt this is the issue as I am at about 3/4”.
 

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I assume that you are using an independent rear suspension, so the differential shouldn't move much as long as the nose is restrained from rising.
 

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If things were bound by the driveshaft I would think you would have some issues in your transmission as well.

3/4” should be more than enough play.
 

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Discussion Starter · #184 ·
I assume that you are using an independent rear suspension, so the differential shouldn't move much as long as the nose is restrained from rising.
Correct. 7.5 irs. Nose has poly bushings so there is minimal upward movement when hitting it.
I’ll maybe try jacking up the nose to see where the DS ends up in the yoke, but even if there was bind there, there sn’t enough play in the input shaft to make up this distance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #185 · (Edited)
Hey Woody, you’re right, I am Hee-Man enough to push the crank back and forth by hand.
Pulled rad and setup dial guage again and got my measurements again without issue. I can’t really feel it moving, but the dial says otherwise. Still in spec as accurate (or not) as it is.

However, this still puts me back to square one. I have no input shaft issue, and I have no TOB preload issue. Maybe not a thrust issue this time?
Feeling a bit like a lost puppy.


7ADB57BC-37E6-4FC6-9157-D2B85B0B3034.jpeg AC6AB8D3-6BD0-4613-89FC-5EB6871F724E.jpeg
 

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you are within spec, drive that thing
 

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Discussion Starter · #188 · (Edited)
you are within spec, drive that thing
I‘m concerned about the metal damaging the crank and cam. I’ll wait and see what the machine shop suggests but in the meanwhile I’ll button it back up.

I also unhooked the drivestaft from the diff to make sure it would go i to the yoke all rhe way...and it does, so that 3/4” inch showing should be fine.
 

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I assume that you are using an independent rear suspension, so the differential shouldn't move much as long as the nose is restrained from rising.
This. Plus the T5 you are using, the geartrain should only have an end play of a few .001”’s to none if it’s preloaded. As well the thrust forces of the helical gears are reacting on the front bearing retainer of the transmission. So even If you had coupled moments reacting from the driveshaft, the shaft would move zero to a few thou… but you have a mile of clearance from the spline should to pilot bearing cage.

Driveshaft is not playing into this in this scenario. This only thing that can wipe crankshaft thrust bearings in a manual is a super tight clutch cable. I think you have been through this before. I would change your oil, run it for a few hundred miles and check again. If you are unsure of the proper cable tightness, look at Maximum Motorsports clutch cable install. You want about .050” of clearance from the firewall adjuster to cable retainer/collar. Also make sure the cable is routed cleanly and has the proper clip on the T5 ear.


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Discussion Starter · #190 ·
Thanks for the reply.
I’m using a hydraulic master/slave setup to activate the fork. It is currently setup to have no preload on the TOB other than the small amount from fluid filling the line. I checked it again today and I can still move the fork to zero preload by hand. I even disabled the clutch safety switch so I can start with no thrust.

At this point, since I’ve exhausted all external possibilities, I’ll wait to hear back from the shop. No doubt they’ll tell me to drive until there is an issue. Once I have their blessing, I will. Then I’ll put a few hundred on it and send off an oil sample.
Thanks for the suggestions everyone.
 

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If your end play is .006 then that would be right where it needs to be. If you put some miles on it, that would mean it really hasn’t changed much.

Are you using a remote mount oil filter setup? Could be residual trash in the line from the last time - if you have one that is.

I’d drive it a little more and see what happens, you’ve pretty much covered your bases as far of things that are in your control.
 
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Discussion Starter · #192 ·
If your end play is .006 then that would be right where it needs to be. If you put some miles on it, that would mean it really hasn’t changed much.

Are you using a remote mount oil filter setup? Could be residual trash in the line from the last time - if you have one that is.

I’d drive it a little more and see what happens, you’ve pretty much covered your bases as far of things that are in your control.
I know. I was happy to see endplay didn’t change.
No, I’m using the regular old ford oil filter adaptor on the block.
I’ll drive for a bit and see.
Since my plugs are now a good color and oil can doesn’t seem to pick up much any more, I’m hoping it’s just rings and bores sealing and perhaps it‘s just metal from that process.
Sounds like wishful thinking though. lol
I’m at just shy of 1000km which is about 650 miles. So, maybe a few more miles and oil changes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #193 ·
And now for the latest installment of the ongoing saga....
As I figured, the machine shop guy said to keep driving and keep to short oil changes until it clears up. Also suggested switching to 10w40 from the previous 10w30. Not sure why on that.

A couple folks mentioned some valvetrain contact being possible and to take a look for signs of contact/wear. I wanted to tighten up the lifter preload another 1/4 turn anyways due to some clatter I’m trying to tone down so I jacked her up, pulled the plenum and valve covers and got to it.
I loosened everything up to start from scratch so I could check all pushrods for wear too. Everything seems good...pushrods are straight and they only showed slight fading of the finish at the guide plate areas. Very minor. Rocker arm witness marks look good on the valve stems. Looks like some of the valves rotate a bit as some of the witness marks indicate. Is that normal? Rockers and studs show no contact marks.

So I buttoned her back up after setting preload at 3/4 turn past zero lash. Went out for a spin and noticed slightly quieter valvetrain. Leaned into it and at about 4000 rpm it felt like I hit the rev limiter. It just sputtered and hesitated till I let off. Ran fine up to that point.
I’m thinking it’s a little weird that I got valve float at only 3/4 of a turn, but the next night I opened the top end back up and loosened all the rockers by 1/3 of a turn. Take it out for a spin.....same thing.
Now I did notice that before I took it apart the first time, #4 plug wire had jumped off the plug and the boot had a burn mark on the boot from the header, but it didn’t go all the way through, and I tested the wire with an ohm meter and got an acceptable reading. Is it possible to still have a problem with that wire regardless, or could the wire have screwed up my coil?
I checked codes. All good.
Any suggestions? I guess new wires and a coil are cheap enough if I want to fire the parts cannon.
 

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throw away the ohm meter,seriously

wanna check for a short to ground, then maybe use it, otherwise never use it in automotive application

spark voltage is upwards of 50kv, that voltage can easily jump to ground through the smallest of burn holes

throw the wire away, buy a new one

you need a scope to check, or check in the dark or use a test light and probe along the wire near the burn
 

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Discussion Starter · #195 ·
Well crap, a buddy had spare wires so I changed the bad one out...no change. I logged a short run of it to see if Decipha see’s anything to point me in the right direction. Seems too much of a coincidence that it happened after the lifter adjustment, so maybe I‘ll tear back into that and start from scratch again.
 

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error in post.
 

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Discussion Starter · #197 ·
Tuner hasn’t looked at the log yet, and I don’t know what I’m looking at or for, so I did what little trouble shooting I could do with the tools at hand. I pulled the plugs and visually inspected them for cracks or damage and rechecked the gap.....around .05 and they only have about 1000 miles on them so I think they‘re fine. Wires look fine except for my damaged/burned one, but they have about 20k miles on them, so I’ll get a new set anyways.
Fuel pressure looked fine....about 40psi at cold idle with fpr vacuum line off and plugged.....about 32ish with it attached. I do plan a pre-emptive fuel pump change over the winter since I’m still running the 30 year old stock Miata pump.

While I do hate throwing parts at a problem, I should have a spare cap and rotor and TFI on hand, and for the price of a good TFI I can buy a new distributor with all the parts included, including the pickup, which I’m leaning towards it being anyways.
We shall soon see. Scheduled to arrive tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #198 ·
Well the parts cannon is empty and I still have the issue. Anyone have any suggestions? I’ve pretty much exhausted everything I can think of.
To recap: latest issue is a high rpm miss or stumble. Logs indicate it happens at around 4700rpm consistently. I‘m not sure what to look for in the logs and my remoter tuner is mia.
I thrown at it: new wires, new distributor with new pip, rotor, cap and tfi.
Checked fuel pressure, spark plugs, no codes.
Someone throw me a life jacket, or a match. lol
 

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Did you change plugs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #200 ·
I looked them over real good and checked the gap. No damage and they have only about 1000 miles on them. I have plugs on hsnd, I guess I could swap out...it just seems so unlikely.
 
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