Ford Mustang Forums banner

61 - 80 of 102 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
651 Posts
I really wanted to check for this crack in my 94' lighting 351w, but i saw the engine run with good oil pressure so i left the bottom end alone. Everything seems to be tight in there. Next build i do i will pull it out and have it totally stripped, for now fingers are crossed that this block never gets that crack..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
how many rollerblocks have you built

There is a cracking problem that is becoming an epidemic, and its only among the 351 roller blocks, the F4TE. We are averaging 2-3 cracked blocks for every 10 we get in. The crack is in the same spot every single time. I will answer all questions should you have any :)
how many had a cam bearing problem later?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
I am using my Factory 351W out of my lightning. The truck has ran great up to the tear down. The truck was never beat on, just drove around town. Do you still think there could be a risk of the crack? I may go over and talk with my machine shop and make sure he looked it over and knows of this issue. I can still get a new block as mine is not together yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
87 Posts
We purchased a 408W stroker DIY shortblock from Fordstrokers a couple years ago. Has this problem been found since then? Is there any way to know if the problem will rise up without removing the cam bearings?

-Greg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,477 Posts
Since this was a sticky and a PSA, i thought it best to keep it here so others, who undoubtedly will find themselves in the same postion, could easily find the information. I didnt know it was going to be an opinion based argument, i was hoping to keep it all factual.

I'm set on a one piece rear main, and NOT getting another F4 block. From what ive read, that limits me to either the E4 or E9 block. I simply wanted to know what the differences were between the two; if one had any advantage over the other. I doubt Ford wouldve recast a new block in 89 unless something was changed.
I don't know the difference between the blocks.

Regarding what needs to be done to convert a block without link-bar lifters... I looked in to this a while ago and this is what I remember as I understand it. The lifter bores are too short for conventional hydraulic roller lifters, leaving you with 2 choices.
1. Run solid roller lifters, which are shorter. Not quite as expensive as hydraulic link-bars and require valve lash adjustment periodically.
2. Run a reduced base circle camshaft to sink factory style lifters further down the bores. Apparently this has a negative impact on valvetrain angles or something. Obviously you need longer pushrods which aren't quite as expensive as hydraulic link-bars.

With all of the above you then need to risk ruining your block by drilling and tapping holes, and running the inferior dog-bones.

So, just keep in mind, you're not saving the whole cost of link-bar lifters. You're saving the difference in cost between them, and the other stuff you'd be required to buy (all the dog-bone stuff and then either solid lifters, or pushrods) doing it the "factory" way. You are also trading the remaining cost for the extra risk that the factory way represents.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
I hope I'm not asking what has already been asked, but what are the chances that a (F4TE) block that had flat-tappet installed from the factory has developed this crack? Is this a factor in avoiding the issue? Not all F4TE blocks had the roller setup installed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Any 351 block that was drilled and tapped by ford. The cam used is irrelevant to the issue.
:livid:

That being said, how hard is it to pull a cam from a block in the yard to see if it is cracked before purchase? I don't need anything but the shortblock so I'm pulling everything off anyway.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,216 Posts
:livid:

That being said, how hard is it to pull a cam from a block in the yard to see if it is cracked before purchase? I don't need anything but the shortblock so I'm pulling everything off anyway.
Go back and look at the first post; you have to knock out the cam bearing in order to see the cracks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
479 Posts
Just stumbled across this. Does this apply to the "Sportsman 351" block?
I have one that has seen 25psi its entire life.
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
12,204 Posts
Discussion Starter #74
Just stumbled across this. Does this apply to the "Sportsman 351" block?
I have one that has seen 25psi its entire life.
I dont know, there is literally 10k+ roller blocks for every 1 sportsman 351 block out there. It only applies to 351w blocks that are rollers, meaning the lifter valley is drilled and tapped for the spider tray from the factory
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
479 Posts
Thanks for the reply. Nice to know. I guess i will just wing it until its time to rebuild.
I will have to stop by some time seeing as i am only about 15 min from you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
234 Posts
I'm so glad this is a sticky....just pulled my engine apart and dreaded looking for this crack. It's there....not happy!!
What was the engine combo before you tore it apart?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Old news but as far as I know this crack has caused zero failures. I have personally race roller blocks bracket racing for 6 years using 12lbs of boost and methanol and had no effects at all other than main cap lifting. I run 6.60 index and brackets with a trans brake . I run a 6600 limiter chip and hit it about every burnout. I have over 400 passes on my current motor with tw-r heads and a .600 lift 114 cam with factory hyd rollers with 150 at the seat using Kmotion -800 springs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
So as scary as these cracks look, as far as anyone knows there have been no known failures attributed to them?
 
61 - 80 of 102 Posts
Top