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hey guys, i have a 2.3l 1987 ford mustang that i have been building over the past little while. it is bored .030 over head ported and polished and got the bottom of the head shaved down to give it more compression .460 .460 278 duration lunati cam , icon forged pistons, crower forged rods, arp rod bolts, arp head studs got my stock crankshaft turned efi to carb swap with a holley 500 2 barrel, ranger header, high flow oil pump. my next upcoming mods are a super sniper efi kit and a turbo kit im thinking im going to use a hx35 turbo,my horsepower goal is 400-450, is this an obtainable goal with my setup and is thisthe best turbo for my setup?


i have a few problems that i cant seem to figure out, i looked up a crankcase breather grommet for my car and i ordered it and it is way to big and will not go in i even tried trimming it some and it still doesnt fit. does anyone know a part number or anything i can do for that.

i am also having a problem with flames shooting out of holes under my headers, im guessing that it was something to do with emissions but im not totally sure. would that be making me lose compression? for the time being could i just tap those holes and run a bolt into them before i get a turbo header?
 

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If you're going to turbocharge it, you're going to want to get the compression down to around 9:1 or less. Forged pistons for sure. Might want to look into swapping the head back to one with a larger chamber to help get the compression down. This is particularly important if you are a planning to use pump gas. Basically you can use the block, pan, and crankshaft-you'll be changing pistons. Probably use your rods too. Throw the oil pump in the trash; a stock pump works great. HV and HP pumps put more pressure on the aux shaft and distributor gear, which are both already feeble. If you MUST use the HV/HP pump, get the billet aux shaft and distributor gear and pray to the 2.3 Gods that it lasts more than 100 miles of use.

Can't comment much on the turbo. HX35 will do 400, but not much more. Personally I wouldn't screw around with it for a ton of reasons; look into the aftermarket, such as BW EFR series. With the right turbo, things just go a lot easier, your tuning window opens up, etc.

Not familiar with super sniper kit, can't comment on that.

Quite frankly, the 2.3 can make power but your goals are on the higher end of things for a stock block and head. The stock head won't flow enough without extensive port work, you'll want to see 220+ CFM on the intakes to get 400 or so hp with under 25 psi boost, only a few guys are getting that much out of an iron head currently. OR you can go with an aftermarket head-if you can find one. You can crank the boost up but that can cause other issues too so it's not "that simple". To get your goal, the turbo is going to be pretty large, and lazy down low which makes for a poor street car, if that' what you want to use it for. There is no free lunch with these things. 350hp is attainable and somewhat streetable but once you start getting 400+, you're going to have lots of trade-offs.

What you'll find out is that building a 400hp 2.3 costs more than building a 400hp 5.0 and is nowhere near as reliable. Not even close! SOHC 2.3 turbo engines should come with jack stands; because they WILL get used (and used often).
 

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The only aftermarket head that was available a couple of years ago was the Esselinger head and it flows almost exactly the same as a stock SVO/Turbo Coupe head. Would require lots of porting, but does come with a decent cam and its aluminum.

Depending on the deck thickness of the head,, one can often polish out 1 or 2 cc's from the combustion chamber (I've done it twice on GT40x and Edel Performer heads). All ported heads lose some cc in the combustion chamber when being ported to remove shrouding around the valves, this is just taking it a bit further. For a point of reference, the SVO motor was born with 8:0:1 compression ratio. You need to be able to measure your combustion chamber size while working. Good luck!
 

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boport has quite a few different 2.3 heads, depending on your goal. Daily driver to race car. Steve Schlodes also did a few but I ain't sure he's doing any more of them or not.

On turboford.org's web page, there is a sticky at the top of the tech forum that gives you really good ideas on how to port your own head. But--you really need to know exactly what you're getting into. Those heads are really thin in some areas (which I found out).

I've seen a DIY build with home-ported head go 6.20's in a 2500lb car, so it's entirely possible. Cheap? not so much. 4 rods and 4 pistons are gonna set you back $1000 or better. Boport has a kit, $1175, all you need besides your balanced crankshaft. The stock rods are kinda weak; I've broken several, almost always cylinder #3. Takes out the block almost every time too. I bought a Mustang once that had a broken rod. Didn't know it. I knew it wouldn't crank over just clicked. Jacked it up, climbed under, found hole in the block with part of a rod sticking out. Turned the crank backwards a hair, pulled the remainder of the rod out of the pan/block, hit the key and then drove the car around on 3 cylinders until it ran out of oil and seized.
 
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