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orings are serviceable, you dont have replacement injectors unless they are identical

flow rate is ONLY ONE aspect of the injector

unless you are entering the specific parameters into the ecm, dont interchange

your ecm are only programmed for the injector they came with from the factory

I dont see how you concluded the injectors were the cause of the no idling, some misdiagnosis there
 

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or the bulb in the dash is burnt out...............
 

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Discussion Starter #65
orings are serviceable, you dont have replacement injectors unless they are identical

flow rate is ONLY ONE aspect of the injector

unless you are entering the specific parameters into the ecm, dont interchange

your ecm are only programmed for the injector they came with from the factory

I dont see how you concluded the injectors were the cause of the no idling, some misdiagnosis there
I agree about the diagnosis, but if the O rings didnt fix the oil then it's the head gasket leaking! However no oil now.
Well I think I changed like for like 24lb accels came out and same went in. But I still have the old ones and can put them back in with new O rings.
Anyway the CEL not coming on. a few lights come on then go out as normal
 

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either the bulb is burnt out or the ecm is NOT powered up

which is it?
 

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oil on the spark plugs= bad headgaskets? are you for real?

you need to stop jumping to conclusions, you are skipping the diag step.....nothing good will result if you keep jumping around
 

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Hi, I just went out now and checked it! No CEL light on. (see pic)
You see how easy that was. You have identified a problem with the EEC/ ECM/ computer, whatever you want to call it.

It’s possible that the bulb has failed, but unlikely in my opinion given your symptoms.

You can still try to retrieve codes from the EEC-IV test port under the hood by using your own 12v bulb there. IF the EEC is indeed faulty, you will not be able to retrieve codes.

Do Not jump ahead and install the extra EEC you have in the parts box. You could damage it without knowing what potentially caused the other to fail.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
ECM/EPM/ECU are all the same? So it could be a fuse to the ECU?

Sorry for boring you guys, believe me I've asked 4 garages to check out my car, they don't want to because most of them have never seen a mustang in the flesh before hahaha. Afraid of it! I don't mind paying the money!
 

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If the bulb is good

check for the ability to retrieve codes, if NO COMM



unplug the ACT, look for 5v volts on one of the two wires with the key in run.

report back
 
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if you have a code reader

hook it up and see if you retrieve codes
 

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Discussion Starter #75 (Edited)
if you have a code reader

hook it up and see if you retrieve codes
WELL, I will try to retrieve codes from the EEC? with the light tester? Same test= key on position.
I need to watch another video. Hook up a code reader to where? the EEC ?

AH! Watched a video, FORD 0BD1 CODE READER, thats a handy thing to have!
 

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Discussion Starter #76
You see how easy that was. You have identified a problem with the EEC/ ECM/ computer, whatever you want to call it.

It’s possible that the bulb has failed, but unlikely in my opinion given your symptoms.

You can still try to retrieve codes from the EEC-IV test port under the hood by using your own 12v bulb there. IF the EEC is indeed faulty, you will not be able to retrieve codes.

Do Not jump ahead and install the extra EEC you have in the parts box. You could damage it without knowing what potentially caused the other to fail.
OKAY I'm waiting for a code reader(next week) meanwhile I checked the water temp socket and the petrol regulator
No fuel coming out with key off!. water temp socket reading 1.55 volts! (see pics.) 4 wire socket! only 1 live.
 

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You’re jumping around again.

Focus.

It’s important to know if the EEC will output codes.
 

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Try this with your test light and let us know IF the eec will output codes
F7CDEB95-EAE9-452A-AA48-3B6A53240475.gif
 

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READ THE * as well
 
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