I'm torn on black or color match the engine bay, I keep going back and forth. I really like the look of a color matched engine bay but realize black would be much easier. I have been watching MANY Utube videos on rattle can base and clear application. My car also has 1 repaint on it and in the original color and you can see in the one of the pictures they did not paint the inside edges of the fenders and it looks crappy. I thought if I bring the color up close to the edge of the fender it would look a little nicer too.
I have 3/4 of the bay cleaned and scuffed with a 3/M pad, saved the worst part for last around the master and booster. Any one think its a bad idea to try to color match it?
Body color, 100%. The only foxbody cars that came with black engine bays were black cars. If you have an air compressor I suggest a quart of body color, a quart of clear and a cheap HVLP gun. It can be done. You won't regret it. Now is the time, not when the engine is back in.
Man your 3/4's of the way there.. your about done with the hard work the spraying is the easy part. I would say body color as well. Remember there will be alot of shadowing from the hood so don't stress about a 100% color match. If you go body color and a base from a paint store I would do a ready to spray sealer before the base. It will help with adhesion, filling in some small scratches and gives you a nice uniform base to go over. I would only spray the sealer on the engine bay. For the fenderlips I would tape them off to a place you will be happy with a small tape line then scuff them. Pull the tape you had down for sanding. Then back tape to that line for spraying. Once you spray your last coat of clear be extreemly carefull and remove the places you back taped while the clear is still wet, this will give the clear some room to flow out and you will have less of a transition line. Hopefully any of that makes sense...
Shame it wasn't a solid color and not metalic you could just do a single stage. 1 less step. One less product to buy. Being your first time painting something like this not sure I would reccomend trying a metallic single stage. It's extreemly easy to have the metallic float in all the corners and creases and would not look good.
All finished with first cleaning and scuff, how do you get paint next to the booster down low and under it. Or just doesn't really matter because you can't see it there anyway.
The next issue I have is how to vent a single car attached garage in cold weather to paint this. I have a gas heater in the garage that I can get it up to temp but will need to shut if off when spraying. Will a fan under the garage door with it cracked open be enough to pull some of the vapors out? Any other suggestions? I want to try to do this next week but it is going to be 30 outside.
I saw a video on utube someone was using Sprayway glass cleaner as a prep cleaner also, any truth to that working?
If you are using a spray gun you can adj the fan pattern to more of a point than a fan and do your best to get color and clear in those places. Like you stated though without removing the booster you can only do so much. Plus it is fairly hidden.
Couldn't tell you if the sprayway would work or not. I've just always used a wax and grease remover or a prepaint solvent.
Yes definitely do not paint with the heater on. Metal temp is more important than air temp when you get ready to spray. Try to get it to atleast about 60 or 70 deg before spraying.
Remember the colder the temp the longer your flash times will be don't be afraid to wait 30min to 1hr between coats of base this way you make sure all the solvent is flashed off. You don't have to wait as long between coats of clear. I would give each coat of clear about 15-20min.
You should be good with fan pulling the fumes out. You will find the basecoat will not be as bad as the clear as far as fogging you out.
Once you are done spraying and the overspray is cleared out you should be OK to turn the heat back on. If you have the ability to run the heat as long as you can after the final coat of clear. This will help things Gas off in your cold temps. In sub 50deg weather I will try and keep the metal temp atleast 70deg for atleast an hour after the final coat of clear.
Projects looking good. Good luck with spraying. There is nothing like spraying that first coat of clear on the base and watch it come to life and glisten.
If your using a spray setup you could try a smaller detail gun. If not just take your time getting paint in there to avoid runs. Plan out how you want to mask and the best ways to avoid tape lines and get what you want covered. Don’t put the paint on too heavy. If you think you didn’t put enough on your first coat it’s probably perfect. Several coats with proper flash time will give you the best results. It will make a mess... cover anything in your garage you don’t want overspray on. Other than that just remember a lot will be covered up when its together and likely you’ll have a motor you intend to be the centerpiece framed by a fresh engine compartment not the opposite.
Good info, I can get the garage so hot it is too hot to be in it with heater on high. I will just warm it up real good before spraying, air it out and rewarm between coats. Will keep posted when I get it started.
Newbie question, what is flash time?
One last thing, agreeing with the above. Panel template can eliminate a lot of grief. When I did this I did it in sections. I also heated the garage but doing it in sections I also was able to warm the panels with a heat gun. I didn’t start out that way and found it quit helpful.
Flash time is the time it takes for the solvents to evaporate. Most paint you use will give you a tech sheet that will give you mix ratio and flash times between coats. I ussally spray an area on the masking paper. This way I can touch that area and see how dry things are without risk of messing up my paint job.
The base should be dry between coats this will alow you to wipe with a tack rag before each coat.
Now the clear is a different story. You don't want the clear to dry between coats. You want it tacky but not wet if that makes sense. And obviously no tack rag with clear. Do your final tack before the first coat of clear.
As Saleen said above don't stress if you don't get full coverage on the first coat. The first coat is just a base for each additional coat to build off of. And don't stress if the base has slight orange peel. The clear will make that all go away and will look slick.
Thank you again for all the great info, I feel much more confident on the project now. I will be using rattle cans with 2k clear but not in a gun. I have a plan for venting the garage too. 8 in Harbor freight ventilator fan set outside the garage with 2 4in lines connected to it running under the car to the engine bay mounted to the lower crossmember to grab some of the fumes. I am sure the wife will be happy when I cut a hole in the duct work running through the garage to supply fresh air from the furnace blower motor running back into the garage. https://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-portable-ventilator-97762.html?_br_psugg_q=fansharbor freight - Bing
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