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Discussion Starter #102
The 1-7/8" and 2" Coyote swap headers share the same geometry, so no, they will have the same fitment constraints. The 1-3/4" headers are designed with completely different bend geometry and have been verified to be compatible with the Maximum Motorsports MMKM 2 (which has standard mod motor stands) and the AJE and Team Z swap 4 K-members as well. My guess is that they will clear the engine stands and mounts on the Team Z mod motor K-member as well, but clearance with the steering shaft is something I can't vouch for with certainty. The AJE and Team Z K-members both shift the steering rack away from the stock left-right mounting position (in different directions no less) and that has an effect on the vector angle of the installed steering shaft and its clearance with any set of headers.
 

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Great so I just spent a **** load off money on stuff that doesn't fit. They should really specify the ls swap crossmember for team z

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Discussion Starter #104
I apologize for your inconvenience, maybe Team Z can just swap out the K Member for you? The engine mounting bracket web listings on the Holley website do state they are specifically for the TZM-KM-Swap4 K-member. Did you purchase them from another source?
 

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To make it worse I'm from Canada so everything cost twice as much buy the time it lands here and shipping anything back isn't easy. And cost more.

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Discussion Starter #106
Can you sell the K-member you have in Canada/locally and repurchase the swap K-member?
 

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Next problem is what do you use to plug the block heater hole on a gen 2 f150. Mount don't fit with the heater in


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Discussion Starter #108
A search online leads me to the factory plug for that location being part number W528114-S446...it is 3/4” pipe thread.
 

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I'm installing the 1 3/4” headers in a 1995 GT with MMKM 2.1 this weekend. The driver’s side slipped into place with the engine bolted to the motor mounts. But, I haven’t been able to install the passenger side headers. They get jammed between the K member and the starter bulge.

Anyone got any hints about how they installed the passenger side?

Tomorrow I will pull the engine and try to install the passenger side after lifting the engine over the radiator support; but, before setting the engine on the mounts. The only other choice I have will be dropping the K member. I don’t want to mess with realigning the K member. I did drill the registration holes already.

The Black Heart 2.5” exhaust system fit nicely. If only there was a Blackheart X-pipe with ball ends to match the factory muffler sockets; it would be perfect.

Thanks,
 

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I suspect that you will need to drop the k-member and install the engine mount to the block at the same time that you install the starter, while lifting the header into place. More or less all simultaneously. That is how it is with the Kooks headers.
 

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Discussion Starter #111
I don’t think it’s possible to get the passenger side header in with the transmission in place unless you drop the K-member. On the few installs I’ve done, I installed the engine into the car without the transmission first, which allows the engine to be tilted forward on the engine mounts (mount stud nuts loosened) and then the passenger side header slips into place first. Leave it hanging a little loose on the cylinder head and then install the transmission next, followed by the driver side header. We put a set on our Coyote swapped SN95 development car a couple of months ago and that’s the method of installation that was used on that car also.
 

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What kind of price we looking at as I'm currently looking into doing a swap? I'm just seeing if I want to spend another 15 to 20 grand.
 

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These are steps I followed to install the headers. I had to remove the K-member.
1) Installed the transmission, starter, and driver’s side motor mount.
2) Stabbed the assembly from the top and installed the passenger side headers when the engine/trans was lowered into place.
3) Installed the passenger side motor mount.
4) installed the K-member.
5) Installed the transmission cross member.

It really wasn’t that difficult. The best part is the 1/8” dowel pins fell out of the K-member when the bolts were torqued. I take that to mean everything got pulled back into alignment. The fitment is exceptional.
1059110
 

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Discussion Starter #114
I glad to hear you got it worked out. Looks like you're on your way to some fun times.
 

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Is was going to put everything on my I k member and then install but the headers I ordered have been on backorder once I ordered them in early February. So now I'm attempting to install my 6R80 from the bottom, my engine is currently in place. I'm noticing that I need to massage the tunnel on the car. What areas doin need to massage? It's hard for me to see everything but it appears its hitting the center and passenger side rib on the top of the trani. Does that sound correct? I'm using a UPR k member with a 1\4" spacer on the mounts.

It also appears I'll need to drop my k member to install the pass side header. So my thought is to alter the tunnel as required and then wait for my headers then install like Todd posted above. Is this correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #118
I assumed so. You need to be aware that the engine stands on the UPR K-member I evaluated were noted to place the engine at a 1/4” to 5/16” higher elevation than the stock or Maximum Motorsports mod motor K-members, so your K-member may possess the same greater mount stand heights and have an affect on your transmission clearances in the tunnel...especially with the additional shims added under the mounts.
 

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Todd, are you continuing to confirm fitment of your swap headers with new K-member options as they become available? BMR recently released their modular/Coyote swap K-member and I have one for my swap. I am looking at header options now, I assume that only the 1 3/4" will work with their K-member since it uses the standard motor mount pads. I have the poly mount, SN95 chassis and Gen II Coyote,
 

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Discussion Starter #120 (Edited)
I actually sent them an inquiry last December to see if they had any interest in having their new K-member(s) evaluated for compatibility with the Hooker Blackheart swap system and after the first email exchange I never heard back from them. I would have no problem doing it as I built a check fixture specifically for that purpose. Without the advantage of first-hand confirmation, I would agree on your assessment that only the 1-3/4” headers would be compatible theoretically due to them being designed to route around the mod motor mounts and engine stands. That would hold true as long as the height and fore/aft location of their engine stands does not deviate from the factory location of the stock K-member. If you want to contact them and mention this exchange, I’m OK with it as it might spark some interest within them to pursue an evaluation. Do you happen to know if there are any functional differences between the standard version of their new K- member and the one with the more robust visual appearance?
 
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