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Discussion Starter #21
That's right the Chicane23 fenders are forward offset. I was thinking of the Maier flares those were the ones I was going to use at first. Definitely post up some pics would love to see how yours turned out. Thanks for the link to the paint gun. I was looking at that one yesterday a friend of mine recommended it also.
Funny you mention that. I actually have the Maier Flares and front fenders in my car trailer, they came with the car but not really the look I was going after I was looking for subtle and they are anything but that.

Ill get some pics up of the frontend soon, I am buttoning up the drivers front fender now.

With less than half the power of the LS in your Volvo, I'm wondering about how much fun the Coupe will be for you compared to the beastly Volvo (seems weird to describe a Volvo as such!). I understand your eventual goal for a small, lightweight powerplant in a lightweight car, sounds like a solid plan. Do you have a particular powerplant in mind?

Are you actually planning on doing an SLA front suspension? There was a discussion on this forum recently, one of the owners of Agent 47 (used to make an awesome LSA for Mustangs) commented that the he had an MM front suspension on his Cobra and thought it was very good. Although certainly not an LSA, I think the MM front is very good. In conjunction with high rate springs, shocks and struts, it is probably closer to an LSA than most would think. Said high rate springs and dampers are very harsh on the street though.

Jay
The volvo is a riot don't get me wrong. It has its downsides though. Its expensive to operate, its somewhat heavy and I built it too nice for beating on every weekend (in my opinion). The plan for this was something that handles better than the Volvo, can fit a massive tire, and has a reasonable cost to operate. I want to get more seat time and become a better driver, the best modification I have done to any of my track day stuff is seat time. I keep getting faster as a driver and want to keep that progression moving forward.

Full disclosure here......I have zero brand loyalty. I like good products, I dont care who builds them or what they were in originally. 5.0 was an outstanding engine in the 80's. But lets be honest, 225 hp, iron block, distributor, gaskets, its old tech.

I have looked into a few powerplants also taking in consideration into easy good manual transmission options.

Short list is

Ecotec LTG. This is in the newer ATS 2.0 turbo direct injection, mated to a 3160 Tremec Manual Transmission. Great engine, tough to find a proper management. Would likely run a 2016 Camaro Manual ECU with it and run it stand alone. Fairly easy to upgrade, 350 wheel is doable on a stock engine.

Ecoboost 2.3. Downside is its very, very expensive, expensive to get the harness, difficult to tune, also Direct Injected, 310 hp. Tall engines but doable

Honda K24/ Bmw 6 speed- Outstanding powerplant, stock bottom end has no problem keeping up with 450-500 hp boosted setup. Simple and cheap engines, tons of aftermarket tuning, will shed hundreds of lbs off the front of the car.

Honda F20/22/ Honda 6 speed- Again another awesome powerplant. 240 Natural Aspirated HP, unbelievably strong engines, very simple and well supported. Already rear drive configuration. The f20 revs to 9,000 RPM all day long. Square bore/stroke makes it rev happy. Would also get boosted and be 350 ish and dead reliable

Only one of these really makes the Ford guys happy but be honest, they are all amazing drivetrains.

I am definitely going to run the MM strut stuff up front for now. Want to get some seat time in this ****box this year and then do the drivetrain swap in the fall once the season ends....if it ever starts. I have zero issue with the fabrication elements on my own. I know that there used to be some SLA setups that were reasonable. I believe Griggs has a bad ass setup but its expensive.

Sean
 

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Funny you mention that. I actually have the Maier Flares and front fenders in my car trailer, they came with the car but not really the look I was going after I was looking for subtle and they are anything but that.

Ill get some pics up of the frontend soon, I am buttoning up the drivers front fender now.
Honestly I felt the same way about the Maier flares the only thing I did like about them is there wouldn't be as much body work to get them to look nice. I've never done body work before and have always avoided it. This is the first time I have ever tried to blend flares to a car. But then again there is allot of things on my car i had never done before. I'm hoping to make it at least look pretty good. Since it will never be a show car and its main purpose to Autocross and track I want it to at least look good from 50 feet. Looking forward to following this build.
 

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Just read through this....what a great thread. Keep up the great work! I'm on overtime so I just may read up on the Volvo too!!!

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
 

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There are some Ford loyalists here that bleed Ford blue, personally I don't get it. My '95 doesn't have a piece of original drivetrain, suspension or brakes anywhere to be found. I think the whole premise of hot-rodding is to use that which best suits your project's requirements.

Honda K24 and Beamer 6 speed sounds like it would make a killer combo.

Jay
 

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I've taken plenty of flack from purists over my own engine swap, so I definitely get what you're saying there.

Ecoboost 2.3. Downside is its very, very expensive, expensive to get the harness, difficult to tune, also Direct Injected, 310 hp. Tall engines but doable
Curious about this. Are you looking at new crate engines only or potentially used/junkyard engines? Used engines are under $2k, transmissions are under $1k. The whole controls pack (including the DBW pedal, wiring harness, ECU, intercooler, intake tubing, sensors, etc. is $1649. If you tried to piece together a standalone with all of those parts you'd be well north of $2000. So total probably $5k for the engine/trans/controls. Here's an engine/trans/controls/column/key/speedo dropout for $5500.

It might be worth is to get a wreck EB Mustang donor and part out what you don't need, you'd probably come out ahead.

No arguments about the complexity of tuning a modern EcoBoost by yourself - there's so much in there to maximize performance and protect the engine while managing the direct injection, VVT, and everything else. But since it's a Mustang part, there's plenty of knowledge out there already in the aftermarket if you have an outside tuner work on it.

Looks like F20C dropouts on eBay are in the $5k range and that doesn't include management or boost. I imagine the K-series would be cheaper but piecing together adapter plates and cross-brand parts always seems to add up $$$ quick.

Simple and cheap engines, tons of aftermarket tuning, will shed hundreds of lbs off the front of the car.
I'm really skeptical of this. Internet engine weights are the worst - people always like to post dry with no accessories or flywheel or wiring or anything. Here's my aluminum-headed 302/T5 combo complete from TB to exhaust ports (no headers) and with accessories:



552lb. A K24 with flywheel, adapter plate, BMW trans, turbo, intercooler, piping, etc. is going to be mid 400s. I could see saving 100lbs over the SBF, but definitely not "hundreds." Though you're definitely not going to beat the aftermarket support of the Honda.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Just read through this....what a great thread. Keep up the great work! I'm on overtime so I just may read up on the Volvo too!!!

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk
Thanks man. Its been a fun build so far, cannot wait to get some seat time. The volvo thread is a long one, but a good read in my opinion =)

There are some Ford loyalists here that bleed Ford blue, personally I don't get it. My '95 doesn't have a piece of original drivetrain, suspension or brakes anywhere to be found. I think the whole premise of hot-rodding is to use that which best suits your project's requirements.

Honda K24 and Beamer 6 speed sounds like it would make a killer combo.

Jay
Exactly how I feel, I could give two ****s about he manufacturer. There will be nothing left original on this thing other than some of the shell when I am done.

I've taken plenty of flack from purists over my own engine swap, so I definitely get what you're saying there.



Curious about this. Are you looking at new crate engines only or potentially used/junkyard engines? Used engines are under $2k, transmissions are under $1k. The whole controls pack (including the DBW pedal, wiring harness, ECU, intercooler, intake tubing, sensors, etc. is $1649. If you tried to piece together a standalone with all of those parts you'd be well north of $2000. So total probably $5k for the engine/trans/controls. Here's an engine/trans/controls/column/key/speedo dropout for $5500.

It might be worth is to get a wreck EB Mustang donor and part out what you don't need, you'd probably come out ahead.

No arguments about the complexity of tuning a modern EcoBoost by yourself - there's so much in there to maximize performance and protect the engine while managing the direct injection, VVT, and everything else. But since it's a Mustang part, there's plenty of knowledge out there already in the aftermarket if you have an outside tuner work on it.

Looks like F20C dropouts on eBay are in the $5k range and that doesn't include management or boost. I imagine the K-series would be cheaper but piecing together adapter plates and cross-brand parts always seems to add up $$$ quick.



I'm really skeptical of this. Internet engine weights are the worst - people always like to post dry with no accessories or flywheel or wiring or anything. Here's my aluminum-headed 302/T5 combo complete from TB to exhaust ports (no headers) and with accessories:



552lb. A K24 with flywheel, adapter plate, BMW trans, turbo, intercooler, piping, etc. is going to be mid 400s. I could see saving 100lbs over the SBF, but definitely not "hundreds." Though you're definitely not going to beat the aftermarket support of the Honda.
Great info!!! This is what forums are supposed to be about.

A couple of issues I have with the ecoboost is many people have issues with them when pushed hard, I cannot tell you how many I have heard of that have had internal engine work done on them with very mild upgrades. I have hardly found any used 2.3's and nothing near me or with a manual trans. If i were to be side by side budgets of $7500.00 I would take the F20/K24 and have more power. I think its a better supported platform with endless possibilities. I would be struggling to get the ecoboost in the car and running even stock for that kind of money.

I think some of my struggle is the newness of it and lack of knowledge. Finding someone that will tune the ford stand alone ECU has not been easy. AEM Infinity on K24 and anyone can tune it. It doesnt hurt that a buddy of mine works for Tial and can help out with some of the boost pieces.

Onto the weight thing. I have a minimum weight for the car at 2595 so I can only shed so much weight. Keep in mind I started with a full weight LX car. I have iron block and iron heads currently along with steel driveline. Total all that up and I think I can drop 150 lbs or more off the nose of the car. I am also planning on sliding the little 4 cylinder as far back as possible.

If there was someone out there that had done the ecoboost swap and had it tuned and could share some good info with me I would be up for listening but I have scoured the internet and there just isnt much out there.

I dig your thinking though, its whats been going through my mind about the project for a few months =)

Sean
 

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Discussion Starter #27
So I realized after buttoning up the rear that I had to swap out the K member up front to use the Chicane 23 front fenders as they are offset 1.5" forward so I needed the .75 K member and .75 lower control arms. Not looking forward to it at all but I got after it.







All installed and getting things squared up in the car per the MM Directions.



Here it is back assembled. Considering the number of times I have taken it apart and put it back together I am getting pretty good at it =) I did all of this solo on a Saturday from start to finish.



So with that done I could tackle the front brakes, or at least get started on them...

I ordered the Fully Torqued GT 500 setup for an SN95. This means I will be running the 4 piston Brembo calipers and 14" GT500 rotors from a 2007 to 2012. Motorcraft OEM Rotors and Remanufactured calipers from Rock Auto.



After a test fit I got to cleaning up and painting





OMNI Epoxy Primer



Super Gheto paint booth.......gotta do what ya gotta do though.



Three coats of OMNI color matched to Koni Yellow.





Turns out I have some interference with the wheel and caliper so I have a small spacer in there now, hoping to eliminate that somehow.

More frontend progress to come......Im so sick of fiberglass and sanding.

Sean
 

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A couple of issues I have with the ecoboost is many people have issues with them when pushed hard, I cannot tell you how many I have heard of that have had internal engine work done on them with very mild upgrades. I have hardly found any used 2.3's and nothing near me or with a manual trans. If i were to be side by side budgets of $7500.00 I would take the F20/K24 and have more power. I think its a better supported platform with endless possibilities. I would be struggling to get the ecoboost in the car and running even stock for that kind of money.



I think some of my struggle is the newness of it and lack of knowledge. Finding someone that will tune the ford stand alone ECU has not been easy. AEM Infinity on K24 and anyone can tune it. It doesnt hurt that a buddy of mine works for Tial and can help out with some of the boost pieces.
I think the direct injection is an achilles heel for EcoBoost swaps - it prevents you from using any common aftermarket ECU and it puts a hard stop on power production (and the ability to run E85) via the capacity of the HPFP, which is a tough $1800 to upgrade. I've wanted to swap a 3.5 EcoBoost into something, but the more I looked into it the more it made sense to just turbo the Mustang 3.7 instead - both have forged cranks, powdered rods, and hyper pistons good to about 550-600whp. Stock EcoBoost exhaust manifolds and turbos are too restrictive so they'd need upgrading anyway, might as well build better manifolds and get a couple slightly bigger turbos. And the 3.7 uses normal port fuel injection, so any Megasquirt or Holley or whatever can run it with just a set of bigger injectors to support more power and run E85 no problems. The icing on the cake is that while EcoBoosts are commanding $3k+ from the wrecker, you can get any number of Mustang 3.7s for under $500 all day.
 

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Which brakes in the rear to get the torque bias right? I'm guessing Cobra, but not too familiar with the Fully Torqued GT 500 setup. Do the later model brakes use the same piston sizes as the 2000R Brembo caliper?

Not a huge fan of the Cobra Varga rear caliper, I bought a Willwood 4 piston set of rear brakes from TCE. If I were to do it again, I'd simply scrap the emergency brake and go with the MM rear brakes which use a thicker rotor as well (1.25" vs. .810") although with 13" rotors and curved cooling vanes, as well as much larger pads, I think either system will be plenty for an HPDE car.

There must surely be more variety/less expensive options for the live axle.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I think the direct injection is an achilles heel for EcoBoost swaps - it prevents you from using any common aftermarket ECU and it puts a hard stop on power production (and the ability to run E85) via the capacity of the HPFP, which is a tough $1800 to upgrade. I've wanted to swap a 3.5 EcoBoost into something, but the more I looked into it the more it made sense to just turbo the Mustang 3.7 instead - both have forged cranks, powdered rods, and hyper pistons good to about 550-600whp. Stock EcoBoost exhaust manifolds and turbos are too restrictive so they'd need upgrading anyway, might as well build better manifolds and get a couple slightly bigger turbos. And the 3.7 uses normal port fuel injection, so any Megasquirt or Holley or whatever can run it with just a set of bigger injectors to support more power and run E85 no problems. The icing on the cake is that while EcoBoosts are commanding $3k+ from the wrecker, you can get any number of Mustang 3.7s for under $500 all day.
That is exactly what my hesitation is on the ecoboost....Sounds like you made a good call, lots of work though =)


Which brakes in the rear to get the torque bias right? I'm guessing Cobra, but not too familiar with the Fully Torqued GT 500 setup. Do the later model brakes use the same piston sizes as the 2000R Brembo caliper?

Not a huge fan of the Cobra Varga rear caliper, I bought a Willwood 4 piston set of rear brakes from TCE. If I were to do it again, I'd simply scrap the emergency brake and go with the MM rear brakes which use a thicker rotor as well (1.25" vs. .810") although with 13" rotors and curved cooling vanes, as well as much larger pads, I think either system will be plenty for an HPDE car.

There must surely be more variety/less expensive options for the live axle.

Jay
I have not mad the decision yet on what I am doing for rear brakes. Probably just cobra stuff out back since it seems pretty easy. I havent done a terrible amount of research on piston sizing on the s197 Brembo Calipers but I have seen a number of people run them on sn95 cars with good pedal feel. I am confident it should be reasonable with the sn95 master that I swapped in.

For right now the car is going to see some autocross action so not terribly worried about the rear brakes, working on getting it road worthy right now before I do anything else.

Sean
 

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FWIW, MM has this table showing popular Ford brake applications, with attending pad style numbers and calipers with piston sizes, and rotor diameters.

.

The SN Cobra brakes use a 38mm piston with an 11.65" rotor. Late model GT500 cars use rear calipers with 43mm pistons and 11.8" rotors. Looks like some research is in order. Or just talk to Jack!

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #32
So now that we have the front wheels centered up in the Chicane23 front fenders I can get to mounting them up, super simple tasks right??? Way easier than the rears right?

Not so much. Its the second time I have mounted up a set of fiberglass fenders and the first time was easy, drill some holes, do some trimming and bobs your uncle. It was on a Toyota pickup though.





315's are big, the front wheels are pushed out farther than I would like due to the FTR front brake setup and needing a small spacer 5mm to clear the caliper. I had 9mm in these mock up pics. The fenders are in ok shape, the back edge near the corner of the door on the passenger side needed repairs and the upper near the cowl on the driver side had about a 1.5" long section that was just air bubbles and it was right on the edge. But we will get to that later.

I had to open up the front wheelwell all over, the bottom 12" or more front and back of the opening needed to be opened up to clear the 11" wheels and 315's. With the wheels moved forward I worked pretty hard to keep the stock lower air dam extension as well as the front bumper extension.Back again with the 3M panel bond and it worked awesome.









It wasnt really hard, but it was a ton of work getting everything figured out. I started on the passenger side and it took me a solid week or so. Passenger side I was able to get done in a day.

So now I needed a good way to push the fenders out and support them a little better. A bunch of scrap metal and a quick trip for some heims and some left hand nuts and I was able to whip these up for fender supports.







They are the only way I could get clearance for them big meats.

Finally was able to get the drivers side done and get the bumper assembly mounted up.



Back apart for the 47th time and shooting on some OMNI Epoxy primer.





These front fenders have not been hard, but they were a pain in the ass. I had lots of holes in the fiberglass to fill, gaps to sand and then fill holes in. I dont think they are a bad product but they certainly take a lot of detail to get them on.

But the end result......







I think its getting there.

Ill be totally honest, the black I sprayed on the quarters and fenders is growing on me way too easily. It almost has a dark grey look to it and makes the flares look even better in my opinion. The wife loves it too.

Parked next to my Volvo this thing is low and tiny, its like you are sitting on the ground.

Next up is button up some things in the interior, work on a roll bar, get some seats and get them installed, plumbing, master cylinder, prop valve, brake lines, new water pump, alignment, corner balance and burnouts.

Should be an adventure thats for sure =)
 

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That is a mean & wide B*+ch. I love it. I cant wait to see what drivetrain you go with and how it all comes together.
Keep it up!
 

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Incredible work, just WOW!!! She sure is looking the part.

Out of curiosity, can you tell me what spring rates, and what series shocks and struts came with the car?

Jay
 

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So now that we have the front wheels centered up in the Chicane23 front fenders I can get to mounting them up, super simple tasks right??? Way easier than the rears right?

Not so much. Its the second time I have mounted up a set of fiberglass fenders and the first time was easy, drill some holes, do some trimming and bobs your uncle. It was on a Toyota pickup though.





315's are big, the front wheels are pushed out farther than I would like due to the FTR front brake setup and needing a small spacer 5mm to clear the caliper. I had 9mm in these mock up pics. The fenders are in ok shape, the back edge near the corner of the door on the passenger side needed repairs and the upper near the cowl on the driver side had about a 1.5" long section that was just air bubbles and it was right on the edge. But we will get to that later.

I had to open up the front wheelwell all over, the bottom 12" or more front and back of the opening needed to be opened up to clear the 11" wheels and 315's. With the wheels moved forward I worked pretty hard to keep the stock lower air dam extension as well as the front bumper extension.Back again with the 3M panel bond and it worked awesome.









It wasnt really hard, but it was a ton of work getting everything figured out. I started on the passenger side and it took me a solid week or so. Passenger side I was able to get done in a day.

So now I needed a good way to push the fenders out and support them a little better. A bunch of scrap metal and a quick trip for some heims and some left hand nuts and I was able to whip these up for fender supports.







They are the only way I could get clearance for them big meats.

Finally was able to get the drivers side done and get the bumper assembly mounted up.



Back apart for the 47th time and shooting on some OMNI Epoxy primer.





These front fenders have not been hard, but they were a pain in the ass. I had lots of holes in the fiberglass to fill, gaps to sand and then fill holes in. I dont think they are a bad product but they certainly take a lot of detail to get them on.

But the end result......







I think its getting there.

Ill be totally honest, the black I sprayed on the quarters and fenders is growing on me way too easily. It almost has a dark grey look to it and makes the flares look even better in my opinion. The wife loves it too.

Parked next to my Volvo this thing is low and tiny, its like you are sitting on the ground.

Next up is button up some things in the interior, work on a roll bar, get some seats and get them installed, plumbing, master cylinder, prop valve, brake lines, new water pump, alignment, corner balance and burnouts.

Should be an adventure thats for sure =)
The flares came out really good I really like your fender supports. With all the sanding I'm doing right now I'm wishing I had bought the full front fender. The 315 with SN95 arms can be a bit of a pain. I originally had fox length arms on my car I had to run a big spacer to keep the wheel from hitting the spring. I was running a 18x11 at the time when I switched to the SN95 arms I decided to switch to a 18x10.5 with a +18 offset and that worked perfect gave me plenty of clearance to the strut. I also swapped out the Koni DA's to MCS coilovers which gave me about a 1/4 inch more clearance between the wheel and the strut.

Jay from what I can tell he is running Koni's SA's on the front.
 

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I see Delrin bushings along with the forward offset front control arms, figured he put together a fairly aggressive package.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #37
The flares came out really good I really like your fender supports. With all the sanding I'm doing right now I'm wishing I had bought the full front fender. The 315 with SN95 arms can be a bit of a pain. I originally had fox length arms on my car I had to run a big spacer to keep the wheel from hitting the spring. I was running a 18x11 at the time when I switched to the SN95 arms I decided to switch to a 18x10.5 with a +18 offset and that worked perfect gave me plenty of clearance to the strut. I also swapped out the Koni DA's to MCS coilovers which gave me about a 1/4 inch more clearance between the wheel and the strut.

Jay from what I can tell he is running Koni's SA's on the front.
That is great info!!! I like the OEM fit of the steel fenders though and in my opinion its a much more straight forward job. I am currently running an 18x11 ET33 with a .75" spacer needed for the FTR GT500 brake setup so its very, very close. I just picked up a set of forgeline 18x10.5 for it ET42 that seem to fit a lot better.

Thanks for the props on the fender supports, its all the little details that I enjoy most. MCS Setup is bad ass but big $$. This was supposed to be a cheap budget build when it started.


I see Delrin bushings along with the forward offset front control arms, figured he put together a fairly aggressive package.

Jay
Yeah its fairly aggressive. I am running KONI SA front and rear, front spring rates are 450 and rear rates are 350. Only issue I have run into so far is I have.....er had, the long bump stops on it and it really limited shock travel at the ride height. MM recommended I raise the car up..I cut 5/8" off the bump stops and I am going to try it out that way.

Been making some good progress on the car the last week or so, Ill pop on here and get the thread updated.

Appreciate the input from people that have more time on these than I do.

Sean
 

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Awesome project! I just picked up this car which has full griggs suspension and tips the scale at 2800. It came with brand new wheels and tires (315/35) and chicane flares, but I'm reluctant to cut it up, and it honestly handles so well with the current combo.

I'm eager to see what you think when it's all done.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Awesome project! I just picked up this car which has full griggs suspension and tips the scale at 2800. It came with brand new wheels and tires (315/35) and chicane flares, but I'm reluctant to cut it up, and it honestly handles so well with the current combo.

I'm eager to see what you think when it's all done.
2800?? Damn, that seems light for a hatch with full GT bodywork. Seems like a bad ass car. I totally get why you are struggling. I have not seen many flared Gt's and I think that getting the Fender extensions and side moldings to work would be a ton of work and have it look right. There are some huge attractions to the 315's though. Grip for days, much more forgiving to drive at the limit in my opinion. Its also part of the reason I started with a ****ty car =) I would have zero heartburn about chopping it up.

Whats your plans with the car? Hardcore track days and autocross or cool driver/ canyon carver?

Had to take a little time off from work last week and hammered on the car to get it driveable.

Started on the brakes, got the new SN95 Master Cylinder installed, gutted the factory proportioning valve and installed the plug. Used lines from LateModel to hook up the master to the existing Ford crap.





Its like ford designed this to go here. Too Easy



Bled the brakes with not much drama other than sucking air in once. Great pedal feel without engine running. With the engine running its meh, could be stiffer. I went with the 1.062 bore on the master and wish I would have gone bigger.

Brakes were super sketchy at first drive, but after driving for a bit they improved immensely. This was just around the neighborhood and still need bedding.

Ordered some new tools and got the alignment pretty close 3.75 degrees of camber and 1/16" toe out. Trick Tools Camber Gauge and Tenhauzen Toe Plates.





I managed to pick up an amazing deal for seats and brackets with sliders locally, well in Seattle but I could not pass up the deal especially with them being XL seats that I needed.

Test fit.



Whoever set these up was crazy, the seat was so offset to the door side that you could barely use your right leg. I realigned the sliders on the mounts and drilled a hole and pulled the seat to the center of the car an inch, it could use another 1/2" in my opinion. But talk about the easy button, a 5 hour trip but they bolted in.

What I didnt take any pics of was me replacing the water pump as it was leaking and glad I did since it had horrible corrosion on it. I also had to drop the rack and replace a sketchy power steering pressure line and get it back installed. This took a bit of time last weekend as well as they both just took some time. I was told the engine is out of a 91, so I ordered a PS line for a 91....nope, 89. pretty sure I got bad info as everything I have gotten has needed to be for an 89. No leaks on the PS line, refilled and bled, also reused the coolant after using a sock and paint filter =) Seemed to work pretty good too.

Plan was to be autocrossing on Friday......This was Monday, I had no harnesses, seats or roll bar built or installed so I got to work.

Started with taking a couple of measurements of the interior and began laying out the main hoop. I started bending tube on off road rigs and this is how I learned, no fancy computer or CNC, just some squares, levels, tape, tape measures and an old fashioned manual JD2 bender.



Started with 6x6 .125 flat plate welded to the floor pans and trunk I wanted to be able to add onto this in the future if needed so the roll bar should meet about anyones rules. Tube is 1.75" .120 DOM.

First try with the harness bar.....yeah that didn't quite work out.



Diag bar in and down bars mocked up



I dont love the bent harness bar from a strength standpoint but it was needed to keep the angle of the belts within the rules and keep the main hoop within 6" of my helmet. I think I pulled it off from an aesthetics standpoint pretty well.







I painted the main hoop and the downbars out of the car with the exception of the weld areas so I didnt have to paint in the car much. Then I got everything installed. I use some duct tape to hold things in place along with a ratchett strap to get it all tacked up after a bunch of weld paper installed on the glass and headliner.





Tacked it up and it worked out that I could slide it on forward with a bunch of effort, weld it and slide it back in.



All welded in a painted. Rear downbars go to the rear frame rails near the shock mounts. I think that this makes for a safer stronger structure than going to the rear wheel wells.



Seats and Belts were next, I welded in a 1/4" x 3" tab on the floor for the SUB Belts to bolt into. RCI 3" Cam style 5 points



Love this view..

 

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I may do a few track days, but most likely I'll just do some spirited driving through the local SoCal canyon roads. The car feels so planted with the current wheels and tires, I couldn't imagine with 315s all the way around. It honestly handles much better than my 2015 with performance package and gt350 wheels.

Your build looks great, you do some really clean work.
 
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