Ford Mustang Forums banner

181 - 200 of 216 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
Discussion Starter · #181 ·
Getting down to the wire now with **** to get done and not enough time.

Replaced the Ignition Lock cylinder last night as you could start it without a key and that just seemed like a bad idea.

Installed proper shift knob, looked at why the steering shaft is loose and cannot fix but it wont fall apart either.

Raised front ride height a little bit and got the car on the scales to do a rough corner balance.

I am happy with the corner balance, but pretty unhappy with the weight. I hear all the time about how light these things are and my previous weight on a truck scale (Lesson Learned not to trust those) was 3000. So I assumed that by shedding some additional weight up front with stripping out more unused stuff, dropping 30 lbs of battery and 60 lb savings on aluminum heads that I would have been well under that 3k mark. Looks like I have another 50 lbs to lose. This is car alone no driver.





So those of you that have a similar car, have you scaled it? What does your coupe weigh? F/R Bias and Corner weights would be awesome.

Drug out the trailer, pressure washed it, filled up the truck and started getting all my racing stuff out and ready to go. Plan is to load up Wednesday night, first real days off work in over a year.

Sean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
520 Posts
The front to rear really surprises me, but it looks like your side to side and corners look really good. How much does your wheel/tire combo weigh? Most drag racers would have a pizza cutter up front, so you could easily have 20+ pounds of extra wheel/tire up front that a lot of guys wouldn't.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
Discussion Starter · #183 ·
The front to rear really surprises me, but it looks like your side to side and corners look really good. How much does your wheel/tire combo weigh? Most drag racers would have a pizza cutter up front, so you could easily have 20+ pounds of extra wheel/tire up front that a lot of guys wouldn't.
I should have weighed a tire while I had everything out and setup but I didnt. Ill try and get a weight on them. They are middle of the road for their size, but lets be honest its an 18x11 with a 315, they are not super light.

The Front Rear is what didnt surprise me actually, there isnt much out back on a Notch and the rear of the car is totally gutted so 56.5/43.5 doesnt really surprise me but I wouldnt mind moving some of that around. I guess I can ditch the bumper crash bars and drop some more weight like 40 lbs or so. Really would like to be closer to 2800 lbs so I can add in some ballast to get the F/R bias better but I am going to go drive it and have some fun. Either way its lighter than last year =)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,906 Posts
I should have weighed a tire while I had everything out and setup but I didnt. Ill try and get a weight on them. They are middle of the road for their size, but lets be honest its an 18x11 with a 315, they are not super light.
Yeah, I'm running some 18x11 CCWs with 315 BFGs on all 4. Changed my sta-bar from an MM to a stock 1-3/8" bar. Had? to remove the front wheel/tire package to do the swap. Forgot how heavy those mofos are.

FWIW, my 86 'vert weighed in at about 3500. Only weight savings is the MM k and C/Os, aluminum heads and rad, and rear seat delete. But of course, I added MM T/A, PHB, ABS hardware and lines, big stereo with subs, a 4-point roll bar, Recaro LS-Cs and other creature comfort items. But my S550 GT is likely 3700 and I believe the 86 has more power.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
Discussion Starter · #185 ·
Last week was a whirl wind. Got the car as sorted as I could and took it up to TurboGixxer tuning in Auburn. Kenny came highly recommended and did some good work.

As I thought, the MSD Was indeed adding timing. We were able to get back to where the stock table should have been and got the tune pretty tuned up. I still have issues with the car stalling on occasion coming up to a light but its better than before.

The bigger issue is that the car breaks up at high RPM. Above 5800 it falls apart. So back to the drawing board on this piece of ****.





Aside from the breaking up problem, it runs pretty good. Made 312.5 wheel on the current setup. We had to increase fuel pressure a bit to get a little more from the 30 lb injectors but all is safe and running well in the power.

Wasnt going to let that stop me so Friday I got to PRE and we got the car up on the alignment rack and checked out my at home alignment and it wasnt that far off.

We were able to dial in the alignment and got right at 6 Degrees of Caster and 3.6 degrees of camber in it. Set the Toe at 0. Zack is a really good racer and one of few people I trust to help get the car dialed in. Was nice to see that my garage setup is good to get in the ballpark or make track adjustments. Just toe plates and 3 point camber guage.

Got out to the Track on Friday about 2:30 for the Oregon region Time Trials. Check in and run in the Intermediate group.

Quickly found that not pulling to 6500 RPM is gonna suck. Car is still pulling hard when the break up happens and 5th is a total dog. So that sucks.

First session, car started to get pretty warm then the I got a hint of smoke in the cabin. Made it probably 12 minutes or so into the first session before I pulled off track into the pits to find PS fluid (ATF) covering the engine bay. Glad it didnt light off as it would have been a mess.

So got that mess cleaned up and got to work installing the cooler that I had in the truck box. Luckily I had enough **** to patch this ****pile back together.



Was able to get out for the final and only timed session for the day and got 2 good laps in before the car started to heat up again.

Frustrating couple of days to say the least.

I was glad I had the cooler and only need to remake one hose for it that I had to splice together in the trackside fix but it worked.

I need to extend the filler on the pump as I have seen several people do and come up with a top cover for it, for now some electrical tape and rag served their purpose.

I pulled the plugs and installed new ones yesterday, old ones looked good though with the exception of 1 had some fuel/oil on it so might need to keep an eye on that cylinder.





Took the salt and pepper shakers apart and cleaned them up and opened the pins up

Took it for a spin and the same problem exists. Tuner believes it to be a TFI issue with the Haltech Stand alone and said that he sees it often.

So now I am struggling with what do to with this dumb thing. Seems I need to tear back into it and likely go Coil packs, crank and cam trigger and retune the thing (Regretting this whole stand alone thing right now).

Onto the cooling. I did a little testing last night and found out 2 things.

I know when it was running hot (Factory Guage) that it was at 220 or so. Not hot enough to blow up or pop a head gasket but too warm for a 300hp car on a 60 degree overcast day. I verified this by running the Haltech and disconecting the fan until the stock temp guage reached the same point it did on track. I have a coolant temp guage on order, should be here Wednesday.

I took it out for a spin and did some freeway driving. The thing stays dead cool around town and at low speeds but as soon as the speed gets up there and you get a little load on it you can see the temps just creep up.

So here is my assumptions. I have an airflow issue. Likely caused by a few things I did.

Mach 1 lower lip impedes the lower radiator air flap from being functional. My plan is to extend that flap down another 1.5"

I also need some kind of hood venting. I have ordered some TrackSpec hood vents and will get those installed ASAP.

Very underwhelming first excursion with the new setup, I actually think I would have been faster with the old leaky 5.0 and T5 than I was with this setup but no going back at this point.

K24 swap???? Sounds good about right now.

Happy Monday and thanks for keeping up with this ****pile =)

Sean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
Discussion Starter · #186 ·
I am still not motivated but also cannot stand having things not work or not right.....

So I messed around with this thing a little more last week.

I made an extended flap out of cardboard and ducttape and tried that, seemed to help so I picked up some ABS 4.5" tall and screwed that onto the stock flap.





I actually dig it. Cleaned up the front a bit and should help with the bottom feeder action quite a bit.

Next was some hood louvers. I ordered these from Trackspec Motorsports. GT2 inner and E36 outers.

As you can see in the layout I was battling my own brain here and had the outers backwards.......I feel like a tool but glad I figured it out before cutting the holes.

Their templates were great and they ended up fitting the hood well. Took more time to layout and rivet them in than anything else.







Just for fun this time cause I dig this view.



Also ordered up one of the Autometer 2-5/8" vent gauge mounts and some nice electric gauges. Drilled and tapped the oil pressure extension and put the temp sender in the thermostat housing.

Moderately happy, need to loosen it up and slide it over to the pass side a bit but they are nice gauges, accurate and easy to read.



Also extended the power steering reservoir filler up 1.5" with the hose and some T bolt clamps.

I took it out yesterday with the new mods in place in the afternoon sunshine it was upper 60's and drove it up a few long grades under load,and it ran right between 185 and 195 on the gauge.

I dont really have much more that I can test without getting on track again with it.



I also made some adjustments to the Rev Limiter and it seems as though that is affecting the high RPM break up......Im not sure why so might mess with that a little this week.

Track Night in America this Friday, HOD on Saturday. Likely take this ****pile out on Friday and see how it does if its terrible Ill take the M2 on Saturday and put a for sale sign in this thing =)

Happy Monday.

Sea
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,906 Posts
Love the Trackspec vents. I also put a G2 on my 86, but molded it into the hood - less race car look.
86 Front DS Top Up.jpg

My first outing is this Saturday but an autocross T'nT at Summit Point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
Discussion Starter · #188 ·
Love the Trackspec vents. I also put a G2 on my 86, but molded it into the hood - less race car look.
View attachment 1071920

My first outing is this Saturday but an autocross T'nT at Summit Point.
Dude your car is so nice....very subtle but super modified and super clean.

I was pretty happy with them. Curious if I can keep it cool at all.

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,906 Posts
Dude your car is so nice....very subtle but super modified and super clean.

I was pretty happy with them. Curious if I can keep it cool at all.
Thanks - labor of love. This build started in 2014 and was "finished" last June. And I more than understand the motivation factor and doing it right. Still, it can and was tedious at times.

I added a Ranger air dam in an effort to reduce under car turbulence and force air through the rad and hopefully out the vent. I also added brake cooler vents/hoses to the air dam. Last summer just putting around in 100+ heat, car never got over 210* (I'm using Evans Water Substitute so it runs a bit warmer). But I think I may need to direct the air better through the rad for the vent to provide optimal effect. On Saturday, I may test with string tufts to see if the vent is doing anything at A/X speeds.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
520 Posts
I used corrugated plastic on the sides and underneath of my bumper to direct air at the radiator and not let it pass around. On a day where it's below 60 outside, the temp sits at 175 with a 180 degree thermostat.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
217 Posts
I did something similar. Stealing the design idea from SN95 factory pieces. I made a foam mold and made deflectors out of carbon.
IMG_1804.JPG 962790A5-CA84-48A9-9BBF-1652D696CAFA.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
Discussion Starter · #192 ·
Thanks - labor of love. This build started in 2014 and was "finished" last June. And I more than understand the motivation factor and doing it right. Still, it can and was tedious at times.

I added a Ranger air dam in an effort to reduce under car turbulence and force air through the rad and hopefully out the vent. I also added brake cooler vents/hoses to the air dam. Last summer just putting around in 100+ heat, car never got over 210* (I'm using Evans Water Substitute so it runs a bit warmer). But I think I may need to direct the air better through the rad for the vent to provide optimal effect. On Saturday, I may test with string tufts to see if the vent is doing anything at A/X speeds.
It used to be a labor of love for me too. I think that love is fading though as I get older I just want reliable seat time and I am not sure how reliable I can make this old ****pile.

I havent had issues with the brakes at all. As a matter of fact they are the one highlight of the car for me. I know you mentioned that Evans. Have you had it on track yet and any issues?
I used corrugated plastic on the sides and underneath of my bumper to direct air at the radiator and not let it pass around. On a day where it's below 60 outside, the temp sits at 175 with a 180 degree thermostat.

This is right where my head is going, probably ABS because I have worked with it and its stiff in both directions but I like this idea. Are those temps you mention on track or in traffic and normal roads?

I did something similar. Stealing the design idea from SN95 factory pieces. I made a foam mold and made deflectors out of carbon.
View attachment 1071986 View attachment 1071985
Damn, thats a really nice setup and a ton of work. I like your attention to detail.

So took this pile out last night to see if I could get the high RPM issue ironed out with some changes to the trigger and the trigger filter....no luck.

But it was the warmest day we have had in a good 6 months so I took the opportunity to see what the car would do temp wise. Took it up some hills at speed under load and it didnt get above 195. So I think I am on the right track, tomorrow will be the test, supposed to be 85 here (That is rediculously warm for Portland Oregon in early April). It was upper 60's and beautiful yesterday.

I did discover when I was testing that my IAT was really high. I saw consistent 125 degree temps so I knew that my shortcut on my intake wasnt working.

I had just tied up the tube for the March Ram Air up near the backside of the bumper thinking that it would get some fresh non engine bay air from down there, boy was I wrong. That air is worse than engine bay air cause its stagnant.

So I got to chopping up the March scoop so it would fit behind the Mach1 lip and modified radiator flap....seems I have a lot going on right there now.

Got the tube all attached and took it out for a test. Not only did it seem to run better the temps were down to only between 109 in stop and go and 101-103 on the freeway. Making progress.

I knew that I was going down the right path and now the filter was pulling air from the opening at the filter hole from the engine bay (Path of least resistance) so I grabbed some Gorrilla Tape and sealed that hole up. I thought it would improve the temps a little bit.....

Cruising on a 65 degree evening IAT dropped to 75-80 degrees. I was shocked at how big of a difference it made.

Now...does it equal any kind of performance upgrade? Not sure, but cooler intake air temps have to help a little bit, possibly with engine temps and we know cooler air is more dense.

I am guessing happier engine all around by dropping the IAT by 50 degrees.

I grabbed a windshield mount for my phone so I can get some reasonable lap times tomorrow. I am hoping that with some more reliability in the car if temps stay down I would like to see 1:30 lap times. Best I could do in the volvo was 1:30.9 and the fox on the last outing was 1:34.41 so I am asking for a lot here but gotta have goals.

Load up is tonight.

Thanks for the tips and pointers, really appreciate the interaction.

Sean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,906 Posts
It used to be a labor of love for me too. I think that love is fading though as I get older I just want reliable seat time and I am not sure how reliable I can make this old ****pile.

I haven't had issues with the brakes at all. As a matter of fact they are the one highlight of the car for me. I know you mentioned that Evans. Have you had it on track yet and any issues?
The "love" part is more like a "love/hate" relationship. Fortunately, I was on the "love " side when the car was "done". Now, reliability - whole nother issue. So far I have a cold start problem but otherwise seems run good - almost scary.

The Evans stuff gets an A/X work-out this Saturday. It's a T'nT at Summit Point. Potentially, 30-40 runs by the end of the day. But weather will be in the mid-50s so not a "true-test" by any means. But I'll let you know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
520 Posts
This is right where my head is going, probably ABS because I have worked with it and its stiff in both directions but I like this idea. Are those temps you mention on track or in traffic and normal roads?
That was just normal roads. I haven't made it to a road course since doing the baffling, but it tends to stay under 200 on the autocross course even on hotter (85 degF) days. My fan turns on at 190 and ramps up to full speed by 200 or so so that's normal operating range when I'm not at speed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
946 Posts
When I did the first major engine build with my '95, I tried an add on tuning solution (Anderson PMS), took it to them for tuning, what a POS! Stumbling, died at lights, surged, broke up at the top end. Best thing I ever did for my car was the Pro-M ECM system. Never need a tuner again, pulls like a raped ape right up to where I have the rev limiter set, drivability as good as possible given the cam in the engine. Just a thought, although I would imagine it would be on the expensive side for what was to be/has been a budget affair.

Jay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
Discussion Starter · #196 · (Edited)
The "love" part is more like a "love/hate" relationship. Fortunately, I was on the "love " side when the car was "done". Now, reliability - whole nother issue. So far I have a cold start problem but otherwise seems run good - almost scary.

The Evans stuff gets an A/X work-out this Saturday. It's a T'nT at Summit Point. Potentially, 30-40 runs by the end of the day. But weather will be in the mid-50s so not a "true-test" by any means. But I'll let you know.
Thats awesome. 30 to 40 runs?? The best I can get at our local events is 8 or so runs in a day. Most of them are 3 to 4. Hope the car did well this weekend.

That was just normal roads. I haven't made it to a road course since doing the baffling, but it tends to stay under 200 on the autocross course even on hotter (85 degF) days. My fan turns on at 190 and ramps up to full speed by 200 or so so that's normal operating range when I'm not at speed.
Interesting. I have no problems keeping it at temp around town....

When I did the first major engine build with my '95, I tried an add on tuning solution (Anderson PMS), took it to them for tuning, what a POS! Stumbling, died at lights, surged, broke up at the top end. Best thing I ever did for my car was the Pro-M ECM system. Never need a tuner again, pulls like a raped ape right up to where I have the rev limiter set, drivability as good as possible given the cam in the engine. Just a thought, although I would imagine it would be on the expensive side for what was to be/has been a budget affair.

Jay
I am sure the Pro-M is a great system but I am pretty committed to Haltech at this point. Its a pretty killer setup and works well, just figuring the bugs out.

The good news

Making the changes to the PS system solved the overheating problems. The cooler and extending the filler up worked great, didnt puke any fluid and no leaks or blow ups.

Changing the air intake made a world of difference. The car has a ton more power so I know I was pulling really hot air in and it was pulling timing out. It actually will pull in 4th and 5th now where as before it felt like a total turd.

The bad news

Even after extending the flap and doing the hood vents the car still gets hot. Hotter than the last time I had it out. Temps were right about 80 degrees Friday afternoon. I was able to get about 8 mins of track time before I had to come into hot pits and let the car cool down then went out and finished the session. Temps in the first session hit about 240.

Let it cool and went out for the second session and same thing but hotter since I was getting more and more heat soak. I came into hot pits and let the car cool and went back out but it was too hot to really drive it.

I brought the car in and loaded it on the trailer. Pretty bummed at this point with the whole situation as I am running out of ideas.



The wife drove the M2 to the track so I took that out for the 3rd session of the day. Ran an entire 20 minute session without any hiccups. I forgot how much fun it is to just go out and drive a car around the race track!! Its been a few year since I had that luxury with the pickup.

We finished up at the track about 8 or so on Friday night and we are supposed to be back at the track on Saturday Morning at 7 am for HOD track day. I am registered in the Mustang but had the OK to bring the M2 in case. I made the call about 9 pm to leave this ****pile on the trailer and take the M2.

Best decision I have made in a long time.

Saturday was an awesome day with HOD. We got in 7, yes 7 20 minute sessions. I ran every 20 minute session of the day start to finish in the B group or intermediate. First session of the day the car feels like it had a fair bit of body roll compared to what I am used to driving on track. Also not having a proper seat and harnesses sucked. That was hands down the biggest downside to the car.

For a 100% bone stock car I was blown away by just how good it was. Amazing power, great shifting, the car communicated back to you exactly what was the limit. The tires started to squeal when I pushed it hard and let me know where the limit was or when I was past it, a little unwinding of the wheel fixed it every time. Car rotates very well.

I am using Track Addict and after stumbling through it for Time trials and again on Friday night I had it working well on Saturday. I started out the first sessions at a 1.34 and managed to drop a few seconds throughout the day and run a 1.31 flat top speed 130 MPH. I believe that this is the fastest lap I have turned at PIR. I am excited and bummed out all at the same time.





This was my buddy in the GT4 in front of me, I had no issues getting around him =)



Best track day I have had in years and you know why??? Seat Time. Lots and lots of seat time. I got comfortable with the car throughout the day. I didn't have to worry at all about the car and could finally focus on my driving and only my driving and when I can do that I am a pretty consistent and fast driver. My lines improved throughout the day and I was pushing the car. There were 3 M2's in my group, mine was bone stock OG my buddy Seneca in his OG had MCS Suspension, tune and downpipe, camber plates and a square setup and a stock M2 competition and I had no problem pulling away from them on track. Not bragging but its a good feeling knowing that I can hold my own on track.

So back to this ****pile.

Everyone says box the radiator in but I am starting to question my cooling system in its entirety. Since I can only really test this on track its extremely frustrating as I burn up a day or an evening and several hundreds of dollars if it doesn't work.

So I guess my next plan is to get a proper radiator in the car (My current one is just an SVE Aluminum replacement radiator. Get a proper fan shroud and fans with flaps to let air through at high speeds. Replace the Water pump with a new water pump, replace the thermostat and box in the radiator. If at that point it still wont stay cool then I am going to sell it and move on. I am so sick of hot cars on track. This is the main reason I stopped tracking the volvo too.

My other thought here.....could my fan be restricting airflow at speed somehow and I am not getting airflow through the radiator? I have a Black Magic fan and its plastic shroud is solid and covers all but maybe 2" of the side of the radiator. I have seen several race car setups with the fans just mounted directly to the radiator and the rest of the radiator open for natural airflow through it.

I really thought the work I had done would have made an improvement but it didn't change it at all which makes me think that I have either a flow problem or a radiator problem.

Thoughts?

Sean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,906 Posts
Well, I can't give you any feedback on how the Evans worked. I caught a bad cold Friday and was down and out Saturday until Sunday afternoon. I hate getting sick - just wastes days. Probably won't get this thing out again until after the first. We are moving to SoCal and going out there at the end of April to find a house.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
Discussion Starter · #198 ·
Well, I can't give you any feedback on how the Evans worked. I caught a bad cold Friday and was down and out Saturday until Sunday afternoon. I hate getting sick - just wastes days. Probably won't get this thing out again until after the first. We are moving to SoCal and going out there at the end of April to find a house.
There are still people moving out to the west coast??? =) So Cal is a beautiful place man hope you are all recovered from the cold and that its not Covid.

I worked on this crapbox for a little bit last night. I built some temporary cardboard and ducttape panels to box in the radiator on the sides and top. I pulled off the Black Magic Fan and installed a small 11" spal fan I had kicking around and just some through pins to hold it to the radiator.

The idea behind this is to prove 2 things...

If I have enough Radiator and water flow, the car at freeway speeds should stay cool at say above 45 miles an hour without a fan at all.

Prove that the shroud is or is not impeding the airflow through the radiator.

It didn't work. The car got hot 205 in traffic on a 70 degree evening. It did cool down once I hit the freeway but it still was hotter than it was running with the fan and the shroud.

So annoyed with this stuff right now. So by proving this I believe that I have an issue with a radiator that is not large enough to reject the heat being created by the engine, a thermostat that is not flowing enough water or a water pump that is not working properly.

Water Pump is an OMP or ORP Severe Duty pump that has good ratings. Radiator is just an OEM Replacement SVE aluminum unit. I cannot fine much for specs on it.

So where to go from here. Ron Davis, C&R?

This thing is totally useless to me at this point so I gotta get a solution for this cooling nitemare.

Thanks for any input that you can share with me.

Sean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,906 Posts
Like many of us, I did a little research on heat rejection through a car's rad. Probably missed some stuff but generally a 2-core with 1.25" tubes does a pretty decent job for a NA motor. The boosted guys probably need a 3-core with big tubes especially with intercoolers ad the like. Beyond 3-core, the rad starts to be the obstruction especially if one is running A/C and say trans and/or PS coolers. I've read that dedicated race cars don't even use fans.

On my '86, I have a Griffin 2-core with 1.25" tubes, a Contour e-fan with a DCC controller (I could control the fan through the Holley Terminator X too), Evans Water Substitute and a 195 t-stat. Water pump is a Weiand piece. I'm also running underdrive crank and WP pulleys. Last summer in 100*+ ambient, the car went to 210* and stayed there in stop and go traffic that lasted the better part of 45 minutes. Once I got some speed up, it dropped to 205*. But Evans normally runs hotter than typical water/antifreeze solutions. The Evans product works on the principal of flow volume and has great heat reject properties and a boiling point closer to 300*. In some cases Evans recommends deleting the T-stat obstruction all together. I may do that when we get to SoCal but out here with cold winters I wanted some heat to keep me warm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
Discussion Starter · #200 ·
Like many of us, I did a little research on heat rejection through a car's rad. Probably missed some stuff but generally a 2-core with 1.25" tubes does a pretty decent job for a NA motor. The boosted guys probably need a 3-core with big tubes especially with intercoolers ad the like. Beyond 3-core, the rad starts to be the obstruction especially if one is running A/C and say trans and/or PS coolers. I've read that dedicated race cars don't even use fans.

On my '86, I have a Griffin 2-core with 1.25" tubes, a Contour e-fan with a DCC controller (I could control the fan through the Holley Terminator X too), Evans Water Substitute and a 195 t-stat. Water pump is a Weiand piece. I'm also running underdrive crank and WP pulleys. Last summer in 100*+ ambient, the car went to 210* and stayed there in stop and go traffic that lasted the better part of 45 minutes. Once I got some speed up, it dropped to 205*. But Evans normally runs hotter than typical water/antifreeze solutions. The Evans product works on the principal of flow volume and has great heat reject properties and a boiling point closer to 300*. In some cases Evans recommends deleting the T-stat obstruction all together. I may do that when we get to SoCal but out here with cold winters I wanted some heat to keep me warm.
Well, I decided to throw more money at this ****pile to see if I can resolve the cooling issue once and for all. All of my indicators are pointing to just not enough radiator and the SVE one seems to be questionable at best.

So after some looking on the internet I decided on Entropy Radiator. They seem pretty confident in their product and say it should have no issues cooling up up 1000 hp. custom built bolt in setup 2 row core with 1.25" tubes and 5,000 CFM of fan. I hope I have enough Alternator and battery to run it =)

Downside is it wont be available for 6 weeks....LAME.

Ordered tires and sway bars for the M2, need some harnesses and a seat next and see if I can dip under that elusive 1.30 lap time at PIR.

Cars gonna sit till I get the new setup so will be a looong wait.

Happy Thursday.

Sean
 
181 - 200 of 216 Posts
Top