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Discussion Starter #21
Thank you. Regarding the O2 sensors, they have not been replaced. He didnt have any in stock and mentioned it could be the wiring considering the age of the car. They dont seem very expensive so I can swap them out for new units and see if it helps. As for the TPS code, I did not have that before the top end kit install. I wonder if the wiring got damaged during that. I am not sure where to begin on diagnosing that/replacing. I feel reasonably confident in not having a vacuum leak after Hybred pointed out I would not be able to get a proper tune with one. I have sprayed carb cleaner around the lower and upper intake, egr blockoff, iac and TB areas. With no AC an no Smog I only have a few other hoses for Brake booster, FPR, and manifold to tree. Correct me if I am missing any. As to why I removed the AC, my plan is to run this as my car at Grid Life. It only worked when driving anyway and overheated the car when sitting in traffic when it was needed. I'll take the small weight savings and extra area under the hood. Lastly regarding the quarterhorse, is this something I can also do with the Megasquirt or do I need to attempt to sell that and purchase the QH instead?
 

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I don’t have adaptive turned off on my TwEECer tuned 95.
It’s just a gt40 topend, f303, & S-trim.
I don’t have idle issues either. 🤷🏻‍♂️

IMO, you can’t get it right without datalogging things like MAF, IAC duty cycle, RPM, etc and doing some calculations, (eliminate as many variables as possible). It takes some time. Then write a new tune, and try it out.

I don’t believe all the tuners out there go through the extra effort. I won’t speculate on what they do, but many people complain about idle quality/ stall after a dyno tune , or seem to be contempt with a 1000+ rpm idle.🤷🏻‍♂️

And IF you do indeed have any mechanical/ electrical issues, you can’t tune around them.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Slight update. While I was confident I did not have a vacuum leak, I was wrong. Let the gentle shaming begin.
But in seriousness, I made one of those little diy smoke machines shown by Brew2l on Youtube to check for any leaks and yep there was a pretty blatant leak in the form of a port that used to hold what I think is the evap coming from the gas tank. (comes in from passenger fender near the firewall, has an electrical thing in the center and connected to the manifold. Or did)
When I got to the tuner I smelled something burning. Popped open the hood to see that hose dropped onto the header and burned through. I let him know and asked him to fix it. He said it could be safely tucked away as it wasnt really needed. I don't know enough to dispute it.
When I went to pick up the car, he said he tucked it up and away. I assumed, which is my mistake, that he capped the ends. It looks as though he just pulled off the tubing from the manifold and zipped tied that length of hose and the half length of melted hose up near the firewall and did not cap the manifold port. Found that easily with the smoke machine.
So I did cap that port. Driving it around a bit and it certainly seems better able to hold its idle. I still died out twice but in general its an improvement. So far anyway.
So two questions:
1. Is it actually safe for that hose to not be hooked up? The length coming in the from the fenderwell is in pretty poor condition but probably ok for me to cut a clean end and couple with some new length to get it hooked back up to the manifold. For now I have both ends capped.
2. What are the chances my tune is worth anything at this point if it was done with that sort of vacuum leak?

Lastly, still throwing TPS and 542 codes so I know I am not out of the woods yet but any progress at least makes me feel better.

Also just a general thanks for putting up my with questions. I am at least trying to learn here whether or not it seems like it.
 

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The fact that the tuner found the vacuum leak and then went through with the tune should tell you a lot.

It should have been aborted at that point .
 

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Discussion Starter #25
The tuner made the vacuum leak. He is the one who removed it from the port and didnt bother capping it off. So yeah, it does leave a bad taste in my mouth.

Would having it "tuned" with that vacuum leak like that mean that it is in fact not tuned now that the port is blocked off? I feel like the answer is that I wasted my money there.

And lastly, should I keep it capped or buy a vaccum line coupler and some line so I can hook it back up to the manifold. Having the gas tank vent into the engine bay just doesn't sound like a great idea to me.
 

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How is your air fuel ratio supposed to be correct with a vacuum leak?

You wasted your money
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I emailed him about it. Let's see if he makes good or just ignores me. Seems hard to find someone to do the job you pay them for these days.
 

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Hey all, just figured I would share my results and continued issues. In May I had a Trick Flow top end kit with stg1 cam and 4" power pipe installed. At that time I also had the AC and smog removed. I had Bama send a tune for the combo so I could drive it back from the "mechanic". I didnt take it above 3k on the way home but I could tell there wasnt much there. It seemed like it actually lost power. I also had to stay on the gas to keep it running at stops which is a huge pain in Chicago traffic. I just had it Dyno tuned yesterday at DMARK performance in Arlington Heights and the results were huge. It actually pulls hard like it should and doesnt hang idle at 2k until I come to a stop. The numbers came out at 318/331 at the wheels and it was around 90 degrees in the shop so they may be a little better in cooler temps. I am very happy with it. It did not however fix my issue of dying out at idle. It will idle fine but it seems like the warmer it gets the more likely it is to flutter and then rev up and fall flat. I am pulling a 124 code for my TPS which is only several months old but also Duracraft brand. Aside from replacing that (what brand is OEM for TPS?) any other ideas? He did say my O2 sensors were acting a little wonky during the pulls. View attachment 1061669 View attachment 1061670
First off, nice car.
Just in general to anyone, if you have the bama tune, ditch that garbage. American muscle deletes negative reviews. I tried reviewing their tune 4 times on the website, they are never there but so many praises. Their garbage tune caused my car to stall and not restart. It has ruined 3 ecu's, and since a9l's are expensive and becoming rare I assumed it was bad ecu's or rebuilds. They "fixed" it once but it did nothing. The tune is now where it belongs, the trash.
I'm sure if they see this they will deny it and make some nonsense claim. Btw my car is no pos, 93 5.0 with 50,000 miles and owned by me for 27 years.
If this post saves 1 person from buying their tune, it will be worth it. Please do it right from a real tuner the first time.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
My experience with them has been just good enough to drive it safely to a tuner. But otherwise, yeah, dont bother.

The tuner called me. I am going to replace the O2 sensors since I already bought them and it cant hurt with 70k miles on the car. I also bought a Motocraft IAC and he is going to fix the tune. Still have wiring issues down the pipe though. I don't mind looking at a CEL if it can be safely ignored, but I have a feeling these are not that type.
 
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