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Discussion Starter #1
Well i was finally able to run my 306 last week. And i am extremely happy my goal was to make 400hp and be able to rev it as high as i want, and i got both.

The parts list is a stock F1 block, eagle cast 3 inch crank, eagle forged i beam rods, forged icon pistons with a 6.8cc dome, aluminum ebay speedmaster gt40 heads with 2.05 1.60 valves, a speedmaster victor jr ripoff. I sent the intake and heads to Wes King to port and he did an amazing job. The cam is roughly 550 lift, 290 Duration, on 106 ls. With comp 1.6 rr's, comp edm solid flat tappet lifters, and manley pushrods. And 650 holley dp.

It made 403hp @ 7200 and 339pft @ 5200. It's still on the dyno and needs more tuning, it's still pretty lean and i need to get a distributor that will handle the rpm. If you look at the last dyno sheet below you can see how it stumbles. It also has 20-50 break in oil. Once everything gets ironed out im guessing we can get 25-30 more numbers out of it.

Thanks to everyone that helped out and offered advice, it helped for than you know.

Ps. I know the plug wires got burnt i replaced them after break in.
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65 fastback pump gas .060 289 (297) solid roller, T5 all motor. 11.12 122 mph
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Nice spread between peak torque and peak horespower. What are you putting it in?
 

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Where those new headers? A lot of exhaust temp?
 

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Where those new headers? A lot of exhaust temp?
Yes they were brand new, i was having a hard time getting the timing correct, turns out the gun i was using is no good. I've also gone uo 6 jets sizes front and back, and it's still lean. So the egt's were up there when i first fired it up.
 

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65 fastback pump gas .060 289 (297) solid roller, T5 all motor. 11.12 122 mph
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Sounds fun. I’m a fan of small displacement American muscle on motor that turns some rpm and has a low rear gear. Enjoy!
 

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65 fastback pump gas .060 289 (297) solid roller, T5 all motor. 11.12 122 mph
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Yes they were brand new, i was having a hard time getting the timing correct, turns out the gun i was using is no good. I've also gone uo 6 jets sizes front and back, and it's still lean. So the egt's were up there when i first fired it up.
Did you make sure top dead center on the number one piston lined up with the pointer and balancer? My opinion is that the dyno is a tuning tool. Hope you got it dailed in properly with air fuel and timing.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Did you make sure top dead center on the number one piston lined up with the pointer and balancer? My opinion is that the dyno is a tuning tool. Hope you got it dailed in properly with air fuel and timing.
Yes, i made sure the timing pointer was correct. I did it before i even put the heads on, the problem was that the timing light i was using at first reading about 7-8 degrees advanced. So trying to put it at 36 degrees was actually somewhere around 42-43. I thought it didn't sound right so grabbed another light and sure enough it was way too advanced. Im going to put a 600 cfm holley on it just to see what happens too, since thats what everyone has recommended. It seems like it should make a bit more torque too, hopefully it's just because it's not getting enough fuel.
 

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Im going to put a 600 cfm holley on it just to see what happens too, since thats what everyone has recommended. It seems like it should make a bit more torque too, hopefully it's just because it's not getting enough fuel.
Do you know anyone with a 750 you can try?
 

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65 fastback pump gas .060 289 (297) solid roller, T5 all motor. 11.12 122 mph
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Have you played with smaller high and low speed air bleeds?
 

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What transmission is in the car, the AODE or and AOD? I'd want the AODE for sure over an AOD. Even if the thought was controlling the trans, the AODE is a stronger trans with much better shifting controls.
 

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65 fastback pump gas .060 289 (297) solid roller, T5 all motor. 11.12 122 mph
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The 650 is not too big if that’s what you’re thinking. Carroll Shelby ran an old school 4150 715 Holley double pumper on the 289s in the GT 350. I’ve personally run 750 and traditionally sized 950 Holley HP based 4150’s on my 289. Does your 650 and 750 have down leg boosters and adjustable high and low speed air bleeds?
 

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Yeah i have one i could throw on it, but I'm not too sure it's going to help all that much. I guess it won't hurt to try though.
Everytime I've tried it, the engine always seemed to like it better.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
What transmission is in the car, the AODE or and AOD? I'd want the AODE for sure over an AOD. Even if the thought was controlling the trans, the AODE is a stronger trans with much better shifting controls.
It's gonna be an AOD, it has an AODE and the 3.8 v6. The main reason im using an AOD is because i can fully build it for the price of a trans controller for a E. I have a hardened one piece input shaft so i can use a c6 converter, I'll have an extra clutch and steel in every clutch pack and the wider o.d. band, As well as using a transgo vavle body tuning kit. Which in my opinion is the best for a mild application like mine. What I'm getting at is I'm not worried about the tranny at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Everytime I've tried it, the engine always seemed to like it better.
The only reason i want to use a smaller carb is because in my (limited) experience a say 650 is better for 60ft where as a 750 would be worth a mph or two. Obviously depending on engine size and rpm range.
 

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The AOD has very difficult to adjust shifts, and the 3/4 shift will be much lower than the 1/2 shift. I had the TransGo HD kit in my 91 AOD Mark VII, and the 1/2 I had at 5600rpm, while the 2/3 was about 5100rpm or so. Only manually shifting it, could get the shifts similar. I loved the HD shift kit for great driveability, but the WOT shifting was troublesome.

The same part in the AODE, are what you install in the AOD, so that cost is similar for building. You would want a wide ratio I'd guess, thus the 4R70W rear four parts to get that gearing. I have that old AOD built with the special input shaft and AODE OD band parts, and a C6 converter somewhere stored away. I chose to not go that route, when I got familiar with the 4R70W's in stock form.

Good luck with the AOD, I think that is a harder path for performance.
 

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The only reason i want to use a smaller carb is because in my (limited) experience a say 650 is better for 60ft where as a 750 would be worth a mph or two. Obviously depending on engine size and rpm range.
Hadn't seen that myself, but it might depend on the setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The AOD has very difficult to adjust shifts, and the 3/4 shift will be much lower than the 1/2 shift. I had the TransGo HD kit in my 91 AOD Mark VII, and the 1/2 I had at 5600rpm, while the 2/3 was about 5100rpm or so. Only manually shifting it, could get the shifts similar. I loved the HD shift kit for great driveability, but the WOT shifting was troublesome.

The same part in the AODE, are what you install in the AOD, so that cost is similar for building. You would want a wide ratio I'd guess, thus the 4R70W rear four parts to get that gearing. I have that old AOD built with the special input shaft and AODE OD band parts, and a C6 converter somewhere stored away. I chose to not go that route, when I got familiar with the 4R70W's in stock form.

Good luck with the AOD, I think that is a harder path for performance.
Well I'm luckier than most people when it comes to transmissions, my father has been a tranny guy for 30 or so years. He's taught me a lot about how to make stock transmissions consistent. From what you're describing it sounds like the tv cable was adjusted so that it reaches max line pressure at full Throttle. What you want in a performance application is to reach full line pressure at about 80% Throttle and at 0% Throttle to not go below 25% line pressure. It's not an easy thing to do, it requires making a custom lever for the trans side. What i meant, when i said an aod was cheaper was that to run my aode i would need to not only build the internals of the transmission, but also purchase a trans controller and tune the shifting as well. Not to meantion how stupid expensive aode/4r70w converters are
 
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