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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys:

I have a 92 347 Stroker. It’s makes 357HP NA and 366 FT/LBS. I currently run. auto NT555R in 285/35/18. My best short time was 1.74. Not bad.

I got MT ET Street R’s, thinking I would do way better. I got 285/55/15 with a set of Weld Drag lights. I aired them way down, and on the big end the car was all over the place. Same with the Nittos before I stopped going to low. Now I stay around 17 PSI and no seat at all. Faster MPH too.

So here is my question. I throughly the MT’s would give me better 60 foots. I think they dead hook and make me bog. I leave at like 4500. Best short time was a 1.88. I also lost one MPH. If I leave the pressure around 20, will they work better, or do I just not have enough power to get the wheel speed I need for those tires? I never though 18’s would run better than 15’s, but I have the time slips to prove it. Any ideas? Should I take the MT’s back to the track and run em at a higher pressure? Would a low pressure have killed my MPH?

Would a 26 x 10.5 MT Drag improve the 60 foots? I’m currently running 12.2 at 113.92.
 

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Whats the rest of your combo, Gears suspension??

If your dead hooking at 4500 try leaving higher and see what you get
 

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What transmission?

Ideally you want to run as much tire pressure as you can before you spin and only lower tire pressure to compensate for traction issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What transmission?

Ideally you want to run as much tire pressure as you can before you spin and only lower tire pressure to compensate for traction issues.
Tremec TKO 600. And UPR upper and lower control arms and coil overs. Drag setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Whats the rest of your combo, Gears suspension??

If your dead hooking at 4500 try leaving higher and see what you get
3.73. UPR upper and lower control arms and coil overs. It’s a drag setup. This is something I’m doing wrong.
 

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1.74 60' with a stick on the 285/35/18 NT555R is amazing on that tire
you should try the NT05s when its time to replace them (both the regular NT05 and DR NT05R are awesome)

as far as the 285/55/15 MT ET Street R goes...
yes you should be cutting better 60' so make sure you're comparing apples to apples

when did you make these passes where you cut 1.88?
was the track colder or same as on the 18s?
did you experiment with the burnout?
launch rpm?
etc

get a small notebook and jot some of this stuff down so you can keep track of whats working and what's not as you definite have a 11s car

a spotter and video always helps too
 

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Discussion Starter #8
1.74 60' with a stick on the 285/35/18 NT555R is amazing on that tire
you should try the NT05s when its time to replace them (both the regular NT05 and DR NT05R are awesome)

as far as the 285/55/15 MT ET Street R goes...
yes you should be cutting better 60' so make sure you're comparing apples to apples

when did you make these passes where you cut 1.88?
was the track colder or same as on the 18s?
did you experiment with the burnout?
launch rpm?
etc

get a small notebook and jot some of this stuff down so you can keep track of whats working and what's not as you definite have a 11s car

a spotter and video always helps too
 

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Discussion Starter #9
This was on the Nittos. You’re right. I think the night I took the car on the MT’s it was hot and sticky. I’m going to wait for a low DA night or negative DA and try em again at a higher pressure. I’ve also starting launching a lot higher and really going for it. I got my burnout out down too to a 5 second steady smoker. They hook so well now. I look into the other Nittos and take the MT’s for another session this week. I had the pressure down at 16. Way too low. I notice I’m going faster the higher up I go. 20 psi for example nets me a better 60 and a better mph on the big end. So confusing. I know it can go 11’s. I just have to drive there lol!
 

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what track?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
at least you don't have to worry about the altitude

Elevation: 7′
True that. The humidity can be a real bitch though. I didn’t give those Mickey’s a fair shake. I had them on my other Mustang and they were awesome., but that was a blower car. I should be able to get the same amount of wheel speed with a 15 that I do with an 18 no?
 

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Forget wheelspeed, radials need to hook. I'll assume your chassis is in the ballpark and you are geared for the stripe, that info is all over the net.

When your radials are hooked and your clutch pulls your engine down too fast, you are going to get a bog. More launch rpm is a step in the right direction, you need at least 6500 for a proper radial leave with a diaphragm clutch. If you can't leave at 6500 or more without spinning, next step would be softening the hit of the clutch. Ideally you want to be able to stage at least 2k above your torque peak, then have the clutch hit just hard enough to pull the engine down to it's torque peak by about 15-20' out. A lot of trail/error with clutch components can get you close to the target pulldown rate, but the easy button fix may be to just install a ClutchTamer to control the hit of the clutch you have. Here's a link to the 'tamer's tuning guide... ClutchTamer Tuning Guide

Grant
 

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Forget wheelspeed, radials need to hook. I'll assume your chassis is in the ballpark and you are geared for the stripe, that info is all over the net.

When your radials are hooked and your clutch pulls your engine down too fast, you are going to get a bog. More launch rpm is a step in the right direction, you need at least 6500 for a proper radial leave with a diaphragm clutch. If you can't leave at 6500 or more without spinning, next step would be softening the hit of the clutch. Ideally you want to be able to stage at least 2k above your torque peak, then have the clutch hit just hard enough to pull the engine down to it's torque peak by about 15-20' out. A lot of trail/error with clutch components can get you close to the target pulldown rate, but the easy button fix may be to just install a ClutchTamer to control the hit of the clutch you have. Here's a link to the 'tamer's tuning guide... ClutchTamer Tuning Guide

Grant
its too bad that your brackets fit like s**t, and your after sale support sucks

and i'm not the only one who's had issues with your brackets
 
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its too bad that your brackets fit like s**t, and your after sale support sucks

and i'm not the only one who's had issues with your brackets
There's no question the 'tamer works, most all NMRA Coyote Stock cars are using them to control diaphragm clutch hit. For several years in a row now the season champs have been 'tamer equipped. Same for Factory Stock. There was a time when you had to have an expensive Black Magic with optional diaphragm springs and centrifugal weights to be competitive, but now with the 'tamer controlling the hit even off the shelf clutches are competitive. It isn't so much about the clutch itself, but controlling the clutch in such a way that allows the engine to operate in the range where can make the most of it's power. Sealed Gen 2 Coyote crate engines are running 10.0's and even dipping into the 9's @ 3100lbs with around 435hp.

NHRA class cars use them under the radar as well, many of those use the Musclecar brackets. 'Tamer equipped cars have won at the NHRA US Nats two years in a row now, this last year on radials. These guys are using the 'tamer to make their state of the art Long style Black Magic and Boninfante clutches even more adjustable.

Two different styles of brackets for the OP's '92, the in-dash and under-dash versions. Majority of the NMRA Coyote Stock cars use the underdash version. Many Factory Stock cars as well. The underdash version does require a specific hood release drop bracket for proper fitment, the OP's '92 should already have it.

Grant
 

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There's no question the 'tamer works, most all NMRA Coyote Stock cars are using them to control diaphragm clutch hit. For several years in a row now the season champs have been 'tamer equipped. Same for Factory Stock. There was a time when you had to have an expensive Black Magic with optional diaphragm springs and centrifugal weights to be competitive, but now with the 'tamer controlling the hit even off the shelf clutches are competitive. It isn't so much about the clutch itself, but controlling the clutch in such a way that allows the engine to operate in the range where can make the most of it's power. Sealed Gen 2 Coyote crate engines are running 10.0's and even dipping into the 9's @ 3100lbs with around 435hp.

NHRA class cars use them under the radar as well, many of those use the Musclecar brackets. 'Tamer equipped cars have won at the NHRA US Nats two years in a row now, this last year on radials. These guys are using the 'tamer to make their state of the art Long style Black Magic and Boninfante clutches even more adjustable.

Two different styles of brackets for the OP's '92, the in-dash and under-dash versions. Majority of the NMRA Coyote Stock cars use the underdash version. Many Factory Stock cars as well. The underdash version does require a specific hood release drop bracket for proper fitment, the OP's '92 should already have it.

Grant
sorry to hijack the thread OP, figure others should know what they are in for as i left him negative feedback on the old i-trader system but that was removed with the site update

this is precisely the kid of after-the-sale support you're guaranteed from grant... more sales pitch

- private messaged him stating that the brackets don't fit and got a similar sales pitch blah blah blah coyote stock

- another private message asking him for some reference dimensions... no reply

- then a voicemail... no reply

- i tried installing it on friend's pristine and unmolested '91, because my dashboard was not original to my car as I converted it to all black interior... same results

- ultimately i got them to fit but it was a royal pain and waste of my time

- even if it fits it still won't work as you need a pedal dead stop so its consistently hitting the same hard stop, which he doesn't sell, help with, or anything. again, not a show stopper but more waste of time.

- in the end i wish others spoke up as i know few other members on here have had issues with the brackets. had i known i would have fab-ed my own as this is nothing new (think it may have been bob cosby in factory stock or one of those guys who came up with this back in the late 90s early 00), and its just a Wright Products VH440BL door stop.
 
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Discussion Starter #18
sorry to hijack the thread OP, figure others should know what they are in for as i left him negative feedback on the old i-trader system but that was removed with the site update

this is precisely the kid of after-the-sale support you're guaranteed from grant... more sales pitch

- private messaged him stating that the brackets don't fit and got a similar sales pitch blah blah blah coyote stock

- another private message asking him for some reference dimensions... no reply

- then a voicemail... no reply

- i tried installing it on friend's pristine and unmolested '91, because my dashboard was not original to my car as I converted it to all black interior... same results

- ultimately i got them to fit but it was a royal pain and waste of my time

- even if it fits it still won't work as you need a pedal dead stop so its consistently hitting the same hard stop, which he doesn't sell, help with, or anything. again, not a show stopper but more waste of time.

- in the end i wish others spoke up as i know few other members on here have had issues with the brackets. had i known i would have fab-ed my own as this is nothing new (think it may have been bob cosby in factory stock or one of those guys who came up with this back in the late 90s early 00), and its just a Wright Products VH440BL door stop.
sorry to hijack the thread OP, figure others should know what they are in for as i left him negative feedback on the old i-trader system but that was removed with the site update

this is precisely the kid of after-the-sale support you're guaranteed from grant... more sales pitch

- private messaged him stating that the brackets don't fit and got a similar sales pitch blah blah blah coyote stock

- another private message asking him for some reference dimensions... no reply

- then a voicemail... no reply

- i tried installing it on friend's pristine and unmolested '91, because my dashboard was not original to my car as I converted it to all black interior... same results

- ultimately i got them to fit but it was a royal pain and waste of my time

- even if it fits it still won't work as you need a pedal dead stop so its consistently hitting the same hard stop, which he doesn't sell, help with, or anything. again, not a show stopper but more waste of time.

- in the end i wish others spoke up as i know few other members on here have had issues with the brackets. had i known i would have fab-ed my own as this is nothing new (think it may have been bob cosby in factory stock or one of those guys who came up with this back in the late 90s early 00), and its just a Wright Products VH440BL door stop.
No worries. I not buying it anyway. I can get there with a clutch tamer. Just need seat time. I guess I should take the ET Street R’s this Friday and see how they do. I’ve only used them once. And I was not happy. But that could have been the humidity. I’ll never know unless I try. I’d love to get slices I just have no idea what size to buy. The 275/55/15 clears my coil over by 1/4 inch lol.
 

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No worries. I not buying it anyway. I can get there with a clutch tamer. Just need seat time. I guess I should take the ET Street R’s this Friday and see how they do. I’ve only used them once. And I was not happy. But that could have been the humidity. I’ll never know unless I try. I’d love to get slices I just have no idea what size to buy. The 275/55/15 clears my coil over by 1/4 inch lol.
keep us posted
 
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