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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Updated - Video on link below
http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=120422.0

We wanted to do a online build-up of a recent race engine for one of our customers. The customers goal for the Tube Chassis Vehicle is to make between 2100-2300 HP. We figured we would share the build up with the modular community and show what it takes to build an engine of this Caliber . Follow with us as we complete the final assembly on this all aluminum race engine. Some areas we go into deeper than other so if you have any questions please let us know. This build is not intended to be instructional but more as just a rough outline of what goes into assembling a Modular Longblock, if you have any in depth question feel free to call or ask us here!



The Block begins with machining and decking to insure that the cylinders are square to the block, this build uses a 3.572 Bore size in a Brand new Ford GT Supercar Block, the block is Torque plate Bored and Honed to maintain a perfectly round cylinder and is finished off with a .0035 Piston to wall clearance, after machining the block is placed in a CNC mill to machine a provision for the starter and Oil pump which is not factory machined on this block.

Next the Block moves to the engine stand where it is drilled for a internal oil pump, although the feed hole is drilled from the factory it is not the correct size since this vehicle was originally equiped with a external oil pump. Next the four holes for the oil pump mounting are drilled and tapped. (6mm), As a FYI this engine however is using the new MMR external pump system but still requires the mounting holes for our new thrust bearing system described later in the build.


After this the engine is hot tanked and cleaned one final time and is prepared for assembly. Since this is a Drag race application there is little use for piston squirters that are originally equipped on the FORD GT block so The next step is Plugging the Main journal Piston Oil squirters, this is done with a 1/16 NPT plugs as shown below.



Our next step is setting up the main bearing clearance and installing the bearings into the block and caps. MMR generally looks for a .0018 to .0022 on applications making over 1500 HP.



Once the bearings have been installed and lubed with Royal Purple Synthetic assembly lube (as used on ALL MMR shortblocks) we can now drop the crankshaft into the block. The crankshaft for this build is a Cryo Treated MMR 5.4 race crank (as used in the MMR 2100 HP twin turbo racecar). Before putting the crankshaft into its new home the ARP mainstuds are installed and hand Tightened.



Next the main caps are installed with ARP Moly lube on the threads and torqued to 55 ft lbs and the side bolts are torqued to 25 ft lbs.



Now that crank is installed we would normally check the Thrust clearance but a the new MMR Trust bearing system is being used on this model and will be explained in the next few steps, next we flip the motor over and begin installing our pistons/rods, our rings are first filed to our race specs and installed on the pistons, below you can see the MMR designed Manley Built piston with a Ceramic Dome coating and Teflon skirt coating paired with a Custom Billet Aluminum Rod designed to handle up to 3000 HP! The Piston pins selected are a taperwall design with a material that exceeds tool steel strengths. The Clevite bearings are selected to give us a desired clearance of .0015.



The rings are installed and the pistons are installed in the block using a thin coating of assembly lube on the piston skirts and WD-40 for the cylinder walls (the WD-40 is a great lubricant for start-up but will not prevent the rings from seating). The pistons are installed using a ARP tapered ring compressor that requires nothing more than a little push to get the piston/rings to drop into the cylinder.



We repeat the last step for all 8 cylinders turning the crankshaft through after each piston is installed to verify smooth operation and correct tolerances (rod side clearance)



Next we prepare the block for the cylinder heads, ARP head studs are installed hand Tight into the block.



Next we install the gaskets, they are first inspected for creases and packaging material between the layers, we use a Felpro MLS gasket on ALL applications which have proven to handle 2100 + HP (with a good tune of course). The gaskets shown are treated with a sealing agent from the factory to aid in sealing small abnormalities that may be present on used blocks.



Next we move on to the cylinder heads, they are Ford GT heads with a MMR stage 3 Port, MMR stainless steel valves and custom selected Comp Cams springs to place 120 lbs closed and over 270 open to prevent valve float and keep the valves following the cam on a high boost/High RPM application.



Next the heads are installed and torqued to 90 ft lbs using ARP Moly lube in four stages.



Once the heads are installed and torqued the Jesel roller followers are put into place with a drop of lubricant on the top of the valve and lifter.



Before dropping the cams into place two important steps must be followed to prevent damage, first the cam journals should be lubricated-again we use the Royal Purple assembly lube, next the crankshaft should be turned until the key faces the 9 o clock position, this insures all of the pistons are below the deck surface and that valves will not be damaged during the cam install.



Once the cams have been installed the secondary sprockets and chain are installed, they should be lined up so that the keys are down (or dots up depending on how you look at it).



Next the primary sprockets are installed so that we can begin the process of installing the chains and degreeing the cams.



Before we install the lower sprocket the oil pump or in this case the MMR Thrust Bearing System (TBS) must be installed, the MMR thrust bearing system eliminated the traditional Thrust washer with a needle bearing that can handle more load and has the benefit of little or no friction to increase HP and longevity. Below is a picture of the new system





Next the chains are installed and the timing events on the custom MMR Turbo cams are checked.



Finally the build-up is complete, the timing cover, MMR intake and Valve covers are installed and the MMR distributor drive system are timed.



Hope everyone enjoyed the build up, the final assembly on this build from the start to finish as shown involved over 22 hrs total labor and involved three different MMR employees. Some of the steps were not shown and we may go back in and add them if questions are asked regarding anything specific.

MMR

a pic of the completed motor:


engine running video: http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/index.php?topic=120422.0

Some pics of the truck: http://www.modularmustangracing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=106
 

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Very nice i would be happy with 1/3rd of that power lol i am actually in the middle of installing a single t76 on 01 L using your guys intake hat,hopefully i will make some more progress this weekend. what is your opinion on the plastic guides versus the metals ones (i think cam in the 99's) ? Thanks
 

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nice airbrush work, I lrespect that truck and the dedication and skill that went into it but I prefer the street legal ones
 
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