[synlyn]

Alright so my fox is up and running now but I ran into something that struck me as odd. I'm pretty sure that I need a new clutch since I have to take my foot out quite a bit in order for the clutch to start biting but after taking off it seems that if I rev past 3k rpm that clutch sticks. Normal city driving isn't very noticeable but I noticed it in the freeway mostly. I was in 5th doing about 60 and I floored the gas but I didn't really get any more speed it just felt like it was slowly reving and after trying it twice and getting to about 4k rpm I started smelling burn clutch and immediately stopped. Is this a characteristic of a clutch that's on its way out? Or is something else wrong?

Also my fuel system has issues as well. I know that my car is supposed to have a 15.4 gallon tank but when I pump 10 gallons I get to a little past full on the gauge. Is this a problem with the fuel sending unit or the cluster voltage regulator?

Once again thanks ahead for any info!

 

[j_lutter31]

what does pumping 10 gallons or a capacity of 15.4 have to do with anything? If you want to adjust it down, pop the needle off and move it with the tank full. I'd rather have it a hair under full than over. Then its on E before empty rather than leaving you stranded. I'd say you need a new clutch.

 

[fess40]

If you're smelling something hot and your not going any faster I'd say the clutch could be toast. My 89 only has a 12 gallon tank. That might explain your problem there.

 

[synlyn]

I can do that? I always thought they were 'calibrated' and because of that you couldnt do something like that, besides wont that make my new empty mark be way off the cluster?
Thought so, alrght new clutch it is!

 

[synlyn]

12 gallon tank? Is there anyway i could tell without removing the tank?

 

[fess40]

Run it empty. Pump it full.

 

[EJthePJ]

If you're smelling something hot and your not going any faster I'd say the clutch could be toast. My 89 only has a 12 gallon tank. That might explain your problem there.

All foxbody mustangs came with a 15.4 gallon fuel tank...1979-1993.
If yours is only holding 12 gallons, then you've got something pretty wrong with your tank. :rofl: lol

 

[EJthePJ]

I can do that? I always thought they were 'calibrated' and because of that you couldnt do something like that, besides wont that make my new empty mark be way off the cluster?
Thought so, alrght new clutch it is!

New clutch sounds like a good idea...change out the slave cylinder assembly as well if you have a hydraulic clutch.

 

[synlyn]

I've been doing some math and i think my tank is holding about 12 or so gallons. I guess ill run it empty to truly find out.

I'm pretty sure I have a mechanical clutch with a cable, the pedal is stiff as hell. At least comparing to one of my friend's honda. Would the culprit be the cable itself or something else?

 

[EJthePJ]

I've been doing some math and i think my tank is holding about 12 or so gallons. I guess ill run it empty to truly find out.

I'm pretty sure I have a mechanical clutch with a cable, the pedal is stiff as hell. At least comparing to one of my friend's honda. Would the culprit be the cable itself or something else?

All foxbody Mustangs came with a 15.4 gallon tank...If you tank holds less than 15gals then something is seriously wrong my friend. I have no idea what could possibly cause a tank to be that far off without the tank being destroyed in the process.

Never compare a Ford clutch to a Honda or Toyota clutch when it comes to pedal effort. A Ford clutch will always "seem" stiff comparatively. Yes you may have problem with the cable. They can go bad. The lining inside can fail & cause binding...but, test your clutch to a comparable Mustang clutch first. Then decide if it is too stiff.

 

[synlyn]

Sounds like my tank is pretty fool proof so I think I'll just learn to live with it haha

Okay, I'll keep that in mind. Today I took a look at my pedal assembly and noticed a blue clutch quadrant as well as a a blue firewall piece so I'm thinking that an adjustable cable kit was installed in which case they probably didnt lube the cable and maybe thats why it's so stiff.

 

[EJthePJ]

Sounds like my tank is pretty fool proof so I think I'll just learn to live with it haha

Okay, I'll keep that in mind. Today I took a look at my pedal assembly and noticed a blue clutch quadrant as well as a a blue firewall piece so I'm thinking that an adjustable cable kit was installed in which case they probably didnt lube the cable and maybe thats why it's so stiff.

Oh! Nice!
It's always great to find upgrades that you didn't know about when purchasing a car.
Blue anodizing hopefully means that they are Steeda pieces.

Most clutch cables come "pre-lubed" so that shouldn't have been a problem...but over time that lubricity can wear off. If you decide to lube the cable...remove it completely from the car. Then spend a good amount of time cleaning it with a brakeleen type product. You want to remove any debris & old lubricant. Let the cable hang & COMPLETELY dry. Then re-lubricate with a graphite base lubricant.
If in this process you find any reason to doubt the condition of the cable, then replace it!!! The $50 price tag of a cable FAR outweighs the headache of removing it again later. (I speak from experience) :rofl:

Another thing that could contribute to stiff clutch feel (when aftermarket quadrants are used) is that they are not all created equal. Some brands of quadrants have a drastically changed radius to speed the action of the pedal movement...which can result in a higher than normal pedal effort.

 

[fess40]

15.4 huh? My gauge is spot on when I fill up. I can put in 3 gal for every qtr of a tank on the gauge. That means I've always had an extra 3.4 gal hiding below E. Lol good to know.

 

[EJthePJ]

15.4 huh? My gauge is spot on when I fill up. I can put in 3 gal for every qtr of a tank on the gauge. That means I've always had an extra 3.4 gal hiding below E. Lol good to know.

Auto manufactures always have a "reserve" built into their fuel gauges.
Empty (E), or a fuel light coming on is just an early warning device...telling you to get fuel soon! Most vehicles can travel about 50-75 miles after reaching E. I've seen some go as far as 125 miles.
The typical Mustang gets between 15-20 mpg...that equates to between 51-68 miles based on the 3.4 gallons your not using. That is exactly inside the factory designed "reserve".
Factories also did this to keep particulate at the bottom of fuel tanks from clogging up fuel filters & fuel injectors.

Fuel gauges are notoriously faulty.
The best thing you can do with any car, is figure out your typical mpg & then calculate what your total milage should be... based on the fuel tanks total capacity. Then use the trip mileage indicator to determine when you need fuel.
In the case of a 4cyl Mustang this means:
15.4 gallons
20 mpg average
308 total miles per tank
(15.4 x 20 = 308)
Of course the numbers will vary based on the car, mods, & driving style...so close attention & testing is needed to become accurate at this method.

 

[synlyn]

Thanks for the info, I replaced my clutch last weekend. That was a big problem it was completely worn out. With that I replaced my Rear main seal as well and had my flywheel resurfaced, the throwout bearing was also replaced. The car actually takes off now haha. Also lubed my cable, its definitely softer now, not excessively but its better. Regarding fuel, things have only gotten worse. My fuel gauge now moves constantly so I'm blaming the anti-slosh module. Although my sending unit could also be to blame. Which do you guys think I should start with? Also I realized something, my speedometer cable is mostly likely gone since my speed is usually off between 10-15 mph, did a rough check with a phone app. This means my odometer is most likely affected, which means the trip odometer is also wrong, which means checking the mpg based on that was a terrible idea haha. So speedometer cable is next. Also any idea if a 90-93 turn signal switch will work on my 89? The 87-89 is twice as expensive and there aren't many junkyard foxes around my area. And guess what? Found out my car had its diff swaped. I have the 8.8 in gt diff not the weak 7.5 so im happy for that. Thanks for all the help guys!

 

[EJthePJ]

Thanks for the info, I replaced my clutch last weekend. That was a big problem it was completely worn out. With that I replaced my Rear main seal as well and had my flywheel resurfaced, the throwout bearing was also replaced. The car actually takes off now haha. Also lubed my cable, its definitely softer now, not excessively but its better. Regarding fuel, things have only gotten worse. My fuel gauge now moves constantly so I'm blaming the anti-slosh module. Although my sending unit could also be to blame. Which do you guys think I should start with? Also I realized something, my speedometer cable is mostly likely gone since my speed is usually off between 10-15 mph, did a rough check with a phone app. This means my odometer is most likely affected, which means the trip odometer is also wrong, which means checking the mpg based on that was a terrible idea haha. So speedometer cable is next. Also any idea if a 90-93 turn signal switch will work on my 89? The 87-89 is twice as expensive and there aren't many junkyard foxes around my area. And guess what? Found out my car had its diff swaped. I have the 8.8 in gt diff not the weak 7.5 so im happy for that. Thanks for all the help guys!

Your welcome!

Every mustang becomes a list of "to-do's"... :rofl:

If your speedo needle isn't "bouncing" & if its not dead (since you said it is just off 10mph) then it is not the cable that is the problem.
Since you also said that your rear-end has been updated to an 8.8", then you must assume that the gear ratio has been changed from what originally came on the car. The speedo "gear" is what needs to be changed. It is located at the end of the speedo cable where it enters the transmission. It calibrates the rear-end gear ratio to match the speedometer.
Which do you have in the car...an 85mph, 140mph or 160mph speedo?
It is also important to note your tire size when calibrating a speedo...you said earlier that you were running 16" pony's with 225/55R-16's. That gives you a tire diameter of 25" which is shorter than the 195/75R-14 which is 25.5" that came on the car...this will affect the speedometer calibration.

I don't know of a difference between the 90-93 & the 87-89 turn signal switch...I've never run into an issue swapping them back & forth between my cars. (two '88s, '89, two '92s, '93)

 

[EJthePJ]

Oh shoot!
I apologize...you did not say that you had switched to 16" rim/tire package. That was another thread.
But , its still a good thing to think about.