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Discussion Starter #1
Driving normal in say 3rd or 4th gear at 30-40 mph the car has a distinctive hesitation. It's quite annoying.

I just changed plugs and this is what these ones look like with only a few hundred miles on them.

I have codes 10, 11, and 15 with KOEO. I did have a code 33, which looks like EGR. Mine is deleted.

I was told having a chip can cause a code 15. I removed the kick panel and found a kb flip switch with two wires going to the ecu.

Can I unhook it and see if code 15 goes away?

A few items replaced within the last year.

-A different oem injector harness.
-Plugs, wires, cap and rotor.
-Kirban fpr
-Ignition switch
-Screamin demon coil
-ECT sensor
-Fuel filter
-TFI relocation kit

Today I checked TPS voltage again. It's around .97 and with tb all the way open it's 3.95. Is that ok?

Timing is set at 14 degrees. Fuel pressure was set at 39 psi, today I tried 42 psi. Zero change in drivability.

Car idles right around 900 rpms. I have a vacuum gauge in my car. At idle I see 12-14hg. Car has a e cam.

I'm really thinking about getting the car on a dyno for a tune from a shop I've dealt with in the past. I just want to make sure I have everything on the car running the best it can before I may the two hour drive.

Anything else I should be looking at?
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Discussion Starter #2
I'll be trying a balance test tomorrow. I tried it a couple weeks ago and it wouldn't go into balance test mode.

I'm leaning towards possibly injector problem.

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Multi Spark Discharge misfire...

Also...the whole car will shake violently sometimes between 1000-1800 rpms while driving. If I keep my shifts higher I can drive around it. Obviously..... something isn't right....

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Discussion Starter #6
are these the same problems as in the other thread you have?
I'm not so sure. But I did a balance test and got a 90.



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you are not stock, so stock fixes aren't gonna work

like i said before, change the TB to a bigger one, YOU NEED A TUNE.

you have a different cam,,,,etc

as soon as you say it idles at 900 rpm, I know the throttle stop has been adjusted, without seeing idle airflow, you are just shooting in the dark

YOU DONT NEED A DYNO tune...........

you need all NONE WOT tuning

I am sure whom ever is gonna tune is gonna make you get rid of that aftermarket ignition system
 

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also you need to id maf, injectors before removing the chip

but if you get a code 15, already now that is a tune is crap
 

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truthfully, you have so many unknowns there, internet diag is almost impossible
 

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Discussion Starter #10
you are not stock, so stock fixes aren't gonna work

like i said before, change the TB to a bigger one, YOU NEED A TUNE.

you have a different cam,,,,etc

as soon as you say it idles at 900 rpm, I know the throttle stop has been adjusted, without seeing idle airflow, you are just shooting in the dark

YOU DONT NEED A DYNO tune...........

you need all NONE WOT tuning

I am sure whom ever is gonna tune is gonna make you get rid of that aftermarket ignition system
I will be getting a tune.

If I could figure out how to get the rpm tach to work correctly without the msd box I'd would have kept it out.

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Discussion Starter #12
It pulls fine up to redline, doesn't break up at all.

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Discussion Starter #14
the stock tach?
No. It's Autometer gauges. I took the tach trigger wire from MSD. Disconnected it. Used the side coming from what I believe is going to the gauge, hooked it up to negative side coil.

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you need to use the MSD signal, not coil negative

follow the wiring diagram that was posted

why not get rid of all that crap?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
you need to use the MSD signal, not coil negative

follow the wiring diagram that was posted

why not get rid of all that crap?
Why would I use the msd signal if I'm trying to delete it?

So now your suggesting get rid of all my gauge setup?


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how would you use a msd tach signal if you delete the msd, as suggested? I have no idea what you are trying to say..........


really, is not obvious, if you gonna keep it, you are going to verify the wiring

the choice is yours to keep or not, i personally would not run that cheese, just me

I am assuming you bought this way and did not do the install? am i correct?

if so, you may have bought someone's problems.......

when you say you have wires going to places that you are unsure of, well that should be the hint you need to be sure of it

at this stage, maybe pull everything and start over, its the only way to be sure......
 

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Discussion Starter #18
how would you use a msd tach signal if you delete the msd, as suggested? I have no idea what you are trying to say..........


really, is not obvious, if you gonna keep it, you are going to verify the wiring

the choice is yours to keep or not, i personally would not run that cheese, just me

I am assuming you bought this way and did not do the install? am i correct?

if so, you may have bought someone's problems.......

when you say you have wires going to places that you are unsure of, well that should be the hint you need to be sure of it

at this stage, maybe pull everything and start over, its the only way to be sure......
I bought car with it on. It's been on since 2003...

The msd trigger wire has a quick disconnect.

So I disconnected it there and used that end going to the gauge, to the coil.

Make sense???

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so you have made no changes, and has been running properly since then?

why disconnect then reconnect?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
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