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Discussion Starter #1
I tried using my Ancron code reader, nothing, not a single sensor clicked, no codes or any thing, tried the Jumper wire to get the CE light to flash the codes, same thing nothing happend...

Is there a fuse somewhere in line of the EEC IV test port on the drivers fender or is the EEC shot? I check the wireing and couldn;t find any shorts or cuts in it... This has me stumped and I want to find out wtf is causing it to run so poorly.
 

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had same prob. The tester said can't make a connection. MY car would die for a day when i hooked up a scanner to it. I was getting spark and fuel. It turned out to be a bad computer
tom
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have to see if I can't borrow one first and test that... The car runs perfect at WOT but stumbles a bit at low rpms under load in stop and go traffic, it happens off and on every now and then, then it just goes away for months at a time , just gettig sick of it and want to find the reason the CE light is going off and on, no problems starting it though....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Is there anyway to test if the computer is the problem other then replacing it?
I just did a Continuity tes at pin 46 and 48 with the jumper wire in the test ports so its not in the wiring as far as I can tell
 

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Did you fix it, I have the exact same problem. No codes even though I have done it a hundred times, and 46 and 48 shows continuity.
 

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I had this problem for the longest time. Turned out I had a bad ground circuit in my computer. Try running a wire directly from pin 48 to battery negative. Do this same thing with pin 46. Put your car in neutral, turn the key on (don't start the car) and wait a couple seconds and see if your CEL starts flashing codes. Worked for me. This is assuming you have a check engine light.

BTW pin 48 can be accessed at the self-test input connector (the little single port one by itself next to the test connector). Pin 46 can be accessed in the test connector - it's the one on the upper left, if you're holding it with the row of 2 ports on top and the row of 4 on the bottom.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
jb89coupe said:
I had this problem for the longest time. Turned out I had a bad ground circuit in my computer. Try running a wire directly from pin 48 to battery negative. Do this same thing with pin 46. Put your car in neutral, turn the key on (don't start the car) and wait a couple seconds and see if your CEL starts flashing codes. Worked for me. This is assuming you have a check engine light.

BTW pin 48 can be accessed at the self-test input connector (the little single port one by itself next to the test connector). Pin 46 can be accessed in the test connector - it's the one on the upper left, if you're holding it with the row of 2 ports on top and the row of 4 on the bottom.
THANK YOU THANK AND THANK YOU, I knew it was a ground somewhere becuse it happened right after we painted the car... Now you said it was a bad ground circuit in the computer? does that mean its shot or was it just a ground on the chassis side of the car causing the problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
24
34
67

22
35
51
53
54
66

pretty much all the sensors are out of range.... 10 pin connector maybe?
 

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Are those codes in continuous memory, or in the koeo test itself?

When you start the test, it should flash 4 times (for 8 cylinders). Then there should be a pause and it should start flashing codes. If you get a code 11 here then you passed the koeo test (there's nothing wrong with your car *right now*). Then there should be a pause, a single flash, and then the codes in memory are shown.

If these codes are just floating in memory, then they're just left over from when your ground wasn't hooked up right. This should be expected until you reset your computer. All of the codes you listed EXCEPT #66 are related to one issue. All of those sensors (ect,act,tps,act,bap,evp,nds) are grounded to the same circuit in the computer, so when it gets blown they all give false readings.

If these codes are actually in the koeo test then you haven't elimated your ground problem. Either way try resetting the computer (unplug bat neg and turn on headlights for 10-15 minutes) and see if they go away.

Code 66 is for your mass air meter (below min voltage). Clean your mass air sensor and make sure it's connected. The "stumbling" problem you're talking about probably has to do with this more than the other issue.

Also, try removing the ground jumper from the self-test input connector (the one by itself) and driving your car, leaving the other one still hooked up. See if the CEL still pops on and if it runs any better.

You can PM or email me if you want some more help.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
these where the koeo with the ground jumper
24 34 67

in memory
22 35 51 53 54 66

Removing the ground jumper caused the CE light to go on instantly pluging it back it would make it go out so I guess your right on the ground plobem....


I'm not the best when it comes to the EEC IV,I understand the codes and what they stand for. The computer should be pretty much cleared all ready as I had the battery and computer out of it for 24 hours 3 days ago only to drive it maybe a mile since, so all the memory codes happened within that time. I assume the problem lies either in the black / white striped wire or the computer itself.


when you say "there grounded to the same circuit in the computer, so when it gets blown they all give false readings" This is what I think happened, I just want to know if the computer is trashed if the ground circuit is blown. I assume I could get away with driving the car with the jumper ground running from the SR port to the neg. battery terminal but is there a better way to fix it or the circuit.


I should have an a9p on the way and I assume if its only the circuit ground in the computer,repalcing it should fix the problem and any codes from the on I can fix.

Thanks for the help. This one has been racking my brain.... I bought the car used and never checked the EEC IV until this problem cropped up. I have pulled Koeo codes from it a few times before only to get egr codes, can't seem to fix them though. The computer is an x3z 93 cobra, 19lb injectors, pro- m calibrated for them and a reg comp. It is also an aod - tremec conversion and it never let me do a KOER test

atleast now I know why the plugs where allways ghost white NA and it might explain the reason the car picked up so much on the nitrous
:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
jb89coupe said:
Are those codes in continuous memory, or in the koeo test itself?

]Also, try removing the ground jumper from the self-test input connector (the one by itself) and driving your car, leaving the other one still hooked up. See if the CEL still pops on and if it runs any better.

.
Haven't been able to drive it as my brother disapeared with my beater taking the keys to the mustang with it since there on the same key ring....

So I pulled the computer apart and sure enough the circuit was blow on pin 46 I'm pretty sure this has to do with the car having an AOD harness and running a 5 spd eec.

I know the harness is different I Just haven't been able to find out what it is. in a few post people talk about the aod haness using a 12 volt signal while the 5spd only sees 5 volts.... this post for example under number 2 A9L under huhwhat99's post. then thing is it ran fine for years until the NGS (clear plug on the clutch pedal switch) was connected in an attempt to pull the KOER codes http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=540841
 

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reading codes

ahh...someone else is reading codes

actron koeo self test reveals codes 34 67 85 95...any suggestions on where to start
a/c and air pump has previously been removed from the car
 

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General inquiry: Either of you wouldn't happen to have moved your battery to the rear of the car? If so, then there may have been a significant voltage drop because the battery ground is further away from the block, sensors, ECU, etc. and may be causing some issues. You may want to run some separate 4ga copper wire lines from the block, firewall, ECU grounds, and transmission to the negative battery cable. The steel chassis is a relatively poor conductor as compared to heavy guage copper wire.

Probst....p.263-266 KOER codes

Forest Green GT
34...Insufficient EGR flow/Excessive exhaust back pressure; or EVP voltage above closed limit (SONIC)/PFE sensor voltage high or out-of-range
67...Neutral Drive Switch (NDS) circuit open; A/C input high;Manual Lever Position (MLP) sensor out of range
85...Canister Purge (CANP) circuit failure
95...Fuel pump secondary circuit failure

Those are some odd-balls. Perhaps something is disconnected, cut, or the connections are bad. 34 and 85 may be due to the air-pump and canister purge removal.

Rednotch
22...MAP/BP out of Self-Test range
24...ACT or VAT input out of Self-Test range
35...EVP/PFE circuit above maximum voltage
51...ECT sensor fault or circuit open
53...TP circuit above maximum voltage
54...ACT or VAT sensor fault, circuit open
66...TOT sensor input is less than Self-Test minimum OR VAF circuit below minimum voltage(E4OD) OR MAF circuit below minimum voltage

No wonder the car is running poorly...those are some key components...MAP, ACT, ECT, etc.

Disconnect your battery. Double check all your connectors, including the two 10-pin connectors, and the EEC connectors for moisture, corrosion, proper contact, etc. Sometimes the pins are bent slightly or are not in full contact with the female connector. Use some spray electrical contact cleaner (Radio Shack). Double check your ground situation if you've recently had the battery moved or have had work done on the car. Once you've got everything back together, run the KOER again.

Many of these codes are uncommon, especially unusual to have the ACT, MAP, and ECT codes all at once, so I'm suspecting connection issues with at least some of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
roadrashed89 said:
General inquiry: Either of you wouldn't happen to have moved your battery to the rear of the car
Rednotch
22...MAP/BP out of Self-Test range
24...ACT or VAT input out of Self-Test range
35...EVP/PFE circuit above maximum voltage
51...ECT sensor fault or circuit open
53...TP circuit above maximum voltage
54...ACT or VAT sensor fault, circuit open
66...TOT sensor input is less than Self-Test minimum OR VAF circuit below minimum voltage(E4OD) OR MAF circuit below minimum voltage

No wonder the car is running poorly...those are some key components...MAP, ACT, ECT, etc.

Disconnect your battery. Double check all your connectors, including the two 10-pin connectors, and the EEC connectors for moisture, corrosion, proper contact, etc. Sometimes the pins are bent slightly or are not in full contact with the female connector. Use some spray electrical contact cleaner (Radio Shack). Double check your ground situation if you've recently had the battery moved or have had work done on the car. Once you've got everything back together, run the KOER again.

Many of these codes are uncommon, especially unusual to have the ACT, MAP, and ECT codes all at once, so I'm suspecting connection issues with at least some of them.
Nope, the battery is in the stock location...... I got all thoses codes because the ground ciurcuit aka pin 46 was blown in the eec iv itself, its the black - white striped wire running to all those sensors.... A little soldering on the motherboard of the EEC IV and all is fixed.

Only codes now in koeo is 67 and 34, Both I can never seem to get rid of.... 67 has to do with the aod wiring harness situation and 34.. beats me I replaced the egr vale and sensor more then once all ready, checked the wiring and can't find anything wrong. My vaccum routing to it may be wrong though as ever time I pull it is clogged with carbon.
 

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Risen from the dead.
Greetings all - I performed the KOEO test using both the wire jumper and Innova scanner...same results 15, 67, 85 (not even sure if I’ve got a canister).

anyway, when I try to run the KOER, I get absolutely nothing! Neither the wire method nor the scanner do anything...no blinking, no codes, no cylinder number.
does anyone have any ideas?
 

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Are you using a code reader?
 

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you need to verify the 5volt ref during running engine

while engine running, pull the ACT and check for 5 volts on the connector side
 
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