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Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
Well, it's been 2 weeks, so I called the shop today about my dizzy gear. It's going to be about 2-3 weeks. WTF, 2 weeks ago you told me 2 weeks. Now another 2-3 weeks? Screw that.
I ordered it from Summit just now. Will be here Tues. Why TF didn't I do that from the get go. This is really pissing me off. It's the only thing keeping me off the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Yes, I doubt it will take them long to do the actual changeout, just a matter of having the right gear on hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Unless its extremely odd you can have it next day.
It’s just the comp cams 435M melonized, but we’re in Canada where delivery chains are slow like maple syrup. Like I said, Summit will have it here Tues. Aboot.
 

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It’s just the comp cams 435M melonized, but we’re in Canada where delivery chains are slow like maple syrup. Like I said, Summit will have it here Tues. Aboot.
I have a friend in Denmark who doesn’t wait more than about 3 weeks for parts. Seems like the shop is jerking you around. Things are more difficult now, but not THAT difficult for sourcing parts - at least not a basic distributor gear
 

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Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
I have a friend in Denmark who doesn’t wait more than about 3 weeks for parts. Seems like the shop is jerking you around. Things are more difficult now, but not THAT difficult for sourcing parts - at least not a basic distributor gear
Possible. I was told 2 weeks ago that it would be a special order and take 2 weeks, since the Can. distributor did not have it in stock (they had the cam in stock, but not the gear). I suspect the parts guy simply forgot to order it. Sh!t happens. Life’s too short to hold a grudge (unless you’re the d!ckhead parts guy at my local Ford dealership, lol).
 

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I don't know what comp recommends for a dizzy gear, but I thought as long as your dizzy was from say a 86-93 roller engine it worked just fine with comp cams? I have used the factory 1989 dizzy gear with 2 different comp cams.

It would have sucked if you've been waiting a month + for something you didn't need.

Strokeme?
Ed Curtis?
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I don't know what comp recommends for a dizzy gear, but I thought as long as your dizzy was from say a 86-93 roller engine it worked just fine with comp cams? I have used the factory 1989 dizzy gear with 2 different comp cams.

It would have sucked if you've been waiting a month + for something you didn't need.

Strokeme?
Ed Curtis?
They (Comp Cams) want a melonized gear for warranty. Plus, I think it’s a good idea to run a new gear with a new cam.
With the way my luck‘s been this year, I’m not taking any chances.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Still waiting on the gear...should be here tomorrow. Over the weekend I buttoned up the rest of the engine bay wiring and plumbing.
Checking where I could locate my dial indicator to check endplay every couple hundred miles for the next little bit, it became obvious that I will need to pull the rad every time I check that. Any issue running staight water for the summer/fall instead of antifreeze? Our water IS pretty hard here, but I’d plan to do a full flush and replace with antifreeze in Oct before it gets too cold, but in the meantime it would be a lot more convenient to use water since I’ll be pulling the rad several times before then. What about lubrication for the water pump? Is it even an issue for such a short duration?
 

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you can get hose pinch vise grips for lower hose

no reason to lose a drop when pulling rad, then re use coolant
 

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Discussion Starter #54 (Edited)
you can get hose pinch vise grips for lower hose

no reason to lose a drop when pulling rad, then re use coolant
Never thought of that. Hello amazon.
Actually, now that I think about that, I can probably macgiver something out of some quickgrip clamps I already have.
Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #55 (Edited)
Yeehaw. Gear came from Summit on schedule and I brought it to the shop today to press on. No drama. Have other things to do tonight but first start should be tomorrow evening.
Plan is to start, set timing, and vary idle a bit as it comes up to temp. Run for 20 mins or so, then change oil and filter. Then drive for a few days at varying speed, maybe put a few hundred miles on, then check endplay and change oil and filter again.
Sound reasonable?
 

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I feel your pain here MX8. I went thru a similar situation 15 yrs ago with thrust bearing and crankshafts (2!) getting wiped out every 300-500 miles.

Sent all parts back to manufactures for check/testing, everyone said their parts were fine. Then I swapped engine builders and gave my coupe to a shop to take over the whole project and assume all responsibility.

As it turns out All parts were in spec but they were on one ‘side’ of the spec and total tolerance was OUT, pushing crank forward.

Very very painful and expensive year. Car was nearly rolled into back yard and given a hot/flaming kerosene BATH!
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Yup. The saga continues. Got it fired up, changed oil and checked filter. Small amount of metal, and a spec or 2 of copper if my eyes weren't playing tricks on me. Hoping it was remnants from before, I filled her back up and new filter, drove around 50 easy miles and checked dipstick. Had the same greyish sediment on the paper towel. Tore a small piece off and grabbed a magnet...yup, metal. Zipped the filter open and had a small amount of metal, but no copper that I could see.
New oil and filter again and will keep a close eye on it. If this engine has to come out again, it's not going back in.
 

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Are you just overly cautious and seeing assembly lube? Depending on the lube and type most will give off a metallic look.
 
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