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Talked to the shop today. Thrust bearing is chewed up. They say it looks as if something is pushing the crankshaft forward. Talked to the guy that did my trans. Sent pics of pilot bearing marks on input shaft. He says it looks dead on. What else should I be looking at?
I don’t want to have to pull this engine again for a long time.
Can you post those pics?
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Quick question about distributor gear. I have a stock dizzy with what I presume to be a steel gear. Comp Cams recommends using a new melonized gear with a new cam. Summit lists melonized gears in .467 and .531 diameters. I measured my shaft....correction, measured the distributor shaft and got about .45x
So i figure it’s the smaller of the 2 that i need. Then I take a closer look and it looks like either a small insert in the gear or the shaft gets bigger there where the gear sits. Is the shaft the same size where you can see that brassy insert or is it a step on the shaft?
I‘d pop it off for a look but the roll pin is really tight and I don’t want to bugger anything. I’ll let the shop swap it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Thank you. So looks like I’d actually need the larger gear based on the smaller diameter of the shaft. Maybe I should try a little harder to get the gear off for a proper measure.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Thanks. I’ll leave it to the shop to figure out then.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Lil’ update.
A buddy works at the machine shop doing the work. He emailed last night with an update. Thrust bearing badly damaged, sent metal through the oil pump which then took out #1 main. Bores and pistons survived, crank needed polishing. Top end ok. Sounds like it’s mostly all back together. Clearances checked and noted.
One thing he said is that the pilot bearing had been pushed in about 1/4“ further than it should. Trans installation error on my part? Or could jack rabbiting cause that?....remember I’ve been fighting a low speed bucking issue since day 1.
This shop does a lot of engines, and are really knowledgeble and trustworthy, so I‘m still at a lose as to how this happened.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Shop called yesterday....engine is ready. I’ll pick up Monday.
Plan is to verify end play with a dial indicator, then measure exactly how far the trans shaft goes into the pilot bearing. Will use studs on the bell to help align the trans into place. Check end play again with clutch and trans installed. If all good, drop into the car and check again after a few miles.
In the meantime I’ve been going through my engine harness confirming continuity and cleaning connectors. Any recommendations on a good wire wrap/loom that offers heat protection? Looking at this, but it doesn’t really offer much heat protection.
 

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Since no one else mentioned it, T5s have different input shaft lengths, '93 and earlier are shorter than '94 and later. SN95 models have their own specific bellhousing which is deeper than the earlier models to accommodate the longer input. They also use a 7:00 clutch fork position as opposed to the 9:00 fork position of the earlier models. I can't really imagine that you would be able to mount a '94+ transmission on an early bell, but I thought I would mention it.

Jay
 

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Shop called yesterday....engine is ready. I’ll pick up Monday.
Plan is to verify end play with a dial indicator, then measure exactly how far the trans shaft goes into the pilot bearing. Will use studs on the bell to help align the trans into place. Check end play again with clutch and trans installed. If all good, drop into the car and check again after a few miles.
In the meantime I’ve been going through my engine harness confirming continuity and cleaning connectors. Any recommendations on a good wire wrap/loom that offers heat protection? Looking at this, but it doesn’t really offer much heat protection.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Picked up the engine today. The shop was cool about it....charged me for parts, but ate the machine work and assembly charges.
I checked endplay .005. Tossed on the bell and trans minus the fw and clutch.....input shaft does not bottom out, so that wasn’t the issue. Measured the same.
Bolted on fw and clutch and trans, measured the same. I’m really looking forward to dropping this back in the car and moving on, but I still can’t help but wonder what caused the original failure.
Picture is the input shaft into the pilot bearing with out the block plate installed.

Oh, and a pic if the TOB. It only has about 8k miles on it. It has a small wear ring on the face, but is otherwise pristine. Reuse or replace?
 

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Picked up the engine today. The shop was cool about it....charged me for parts, but ate the machine work and assembly charges.
I checked endplay .005. Tossed on the bell and trans minus the fw and clutch.....input shaft does not bottom out, so that wasn’t the issue. Measured the same.
Bolted on fw and clutch and trans, measured the same. I’m really looking forward to dropping this back in the car and moving on, but I still can’t help but wonder what caused the original failure.
Picture is the input shaft into the pilot bearing with out the block plate installed.

Oh, and a pic if the TOB. It only has about 8k miles on it. It has a small wear ring on the face, but is otherwise pristine. Reuse or replace?
Sent you a message.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I haven't been in a panic to get this back in the car as the shop screwed up the dizzy/cam gear order. Special order from Comp Cams took 2 weeks, they ordered the wrong one....another 2 weeks to get the right one, so I got one week to go.
Dropped the engine in the car last night, going to botton everything else up over the weekend, and then wait for the distributor to be ready.
They put in new lifters with a note that they didn't soak them, and to run some rpm in them to pump them up before setting the rockers. Is just spinning the oil shaft gear (counterclockwise) with a drill enough to pump up the lifters, or do I need to run it for a bit first?
 

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I use a 1/2" drill counterclockwise. I usually have the valve covers off so I can see the oil flow out of the rockers. Some say to soak the lifters and others say no need.
 

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got pics of the friction disc both sides?

got dowels on the block for the bell?

make sure crank is concentric, and parallel with bell opening and that bearing retainer fits tightly in that opening
 

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1990 Ford Mustang LX 351M powered!! Project Cherry Bomb!!
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Just out of curiosity, what kind of block plate are you using? I've heard of some ppl having issues with different brands of block plates, and I'm wondering if that may be what's causing the endplay issue on the crank? I mean it may be a stupid question but it may be something to be looked at??
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Not a stupid question. I entertain any thought on the cause of this. However, I did a test fit of everything out of the car and the tranny snout was not bottoming out.

Dropped engine in last night. Installed clutch and trans tonight. No issues, trans slid right in. Will button up trans xmember, driveshaft, and exhaust tomorrow.
 
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