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Discussion Starter #102
I don't believe this for one minute. 249cfm at 0.400" lift?

Yeah I don't believe anyone's advertised numbers. Most will use a big bore and a few other tricks to show big numbers or outright inflate them but that's advertising. I'm not selling or telling anyone to buy any of these heads. I'm just trying to keep info in one place since it so hard to find on these over seas heads and they get whored out by so many suppliers under different names.




If they pop up as bare castings on fleabay for what the other cheap china castings sell for I might snag a set . Large as cast intake runner, mostly likely an afr design rip off with guides for 8mm valves, if there of the same quality as the dart clones I'd risk a couple hundred bucks for a pair of castings. I do know I wouldn't buy there old gt40 based head. I wonder if they will drop that since these seem to also be available with a smaller "185" runner from the supplier in china.
 

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I should keep an eye on this thread too. I have a pair of the Flo-tek heads at 180cc, which came ported from Thumper. I trust that he corrected any major imperfections, but the match to gaskets are still unknowns to me. Plus I have no clue how they may flow compared to the GT40X's they were copied from. I just needed a decent basic aluminum head for a 306, street rpm in an SUV. So power above 5000rpm is no issue for me, but how it does at 2002-4000rpm matters.

This is interesting, but I don't plan to buy any other knock offs in the future.
 

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I'm pretty sure the pro header will be the same as the ebay head. all of the heads I've seen have the same style date batch coding stamped into them by the deck like your picture show and all have the same chamber with the plug closer to the exhaust valve.
Confirmed. I received the ProHeader castings and they are identical to the ebay heads that I posted pictures of in February. I may push a sacrificial head through the bandsaw, like Ed suggested, to get a good understanding of how these communist heads are structured. Other than what appears to be some very minor core shift, I'm surprised at how consistent and of decent quality these commie heads appear to be - the ProHeader castings (newer 2018 date code) are spot on with the ebay castings (older 2018 date code). On the sacrificial head, I'll see how easy the valve seats pop out and may try welding on them to see what happens.

I'm a buy American kinda guy so it pained me to purchase 2 pairs, but curiosity got the best of me along with not wanting to practice and learn porting and assembly on a much more expensive, US name brand casting.

Rednotch - What intake are you running with the commie heads?
 

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Discussion Starter #107
I have an old ported rpm 1 that was matched to my afr heads, and a tfs street that came on the car when I bough it, going to try both after I play play with the trickflow intake. I'm looking for a used systemax or rpm II for it though. I'm still collecting parts on the cheap so it gets worked on when deals pop up or I feel like it. dig snag an old lunati voodoo 282/290 cam for it.. Its not really a priority project just a cheap one. Beats dropping a 5.3/ 4l80 in it that the locals love to do these days.

As for the heads being the same... if your going to go cheap, get them cheap. name brand heads, bare are about a grand a pair retail, they don't give much credit for the hardware they use and a lot of it you end up replacing the spring kits any way. Its why tfs and afrs are a good deal for what they are.

I wouldn't bother welding on them unless your doing it for porting. I've seen a couple of them that have been repaired when a chamber got torched when I was looking for info on them, so in the right hands they can be tig welded. As for learning to port, use a scrap head. Speedtalk is a good site to search for info if you want to learn a lot on your own.
 

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Local guy got almost 400cfm out of a set of those chinese cleveland heads, ported of course.
It appears FPS uses this casting for their current Avenger CNC Head.
I was looking for other options for Clevor heads again and i ended up coming back to the Avenger CNC heads again. I got 2 more sets of the cnc Avg xtc-r heads coming now as I CAN NOT find any other good bang for the buck canted valve heads with bigger/decent sized ports that can flow 400+cfm for just over $2500 bucks complete...

CNC AVENGER XTC-R.jpg

("Avenger XTC-R A356 aluminum heads fully CNC, 280cc intake port, 70cc combustion chamber, ProFlo 2.25 x 1.68 stainless steel valves, Pacific 1.625 dual valve springs, heads flow 404 @ .850 intake and 272 @ .850 exhaust, titanium retainers, 11/32" valve stems, bronze valve guides, for solid roller")

 
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I like those too, but can they bad had with end head bolt holes that take Windsor brackets? CHI has been making many of theirs with both bolt patterns for years, they have the Cleveland holes on one end, and the Windsor holes on the other. I will be running modern late model accessories, identical parts as any 96-01 302 Explorer. I'd love to have 300cfm+ or so out of the box, if they would work.
 

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That is a good idea, hopefully they had thought of it before. The rear holes are almost never used, it makes a lot of sense to use different holes on the back, Windsor and Cleveland parts having been mixed forever since the 70's.
 

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I bought a set of the blueprint heads pedestal mount version and they are on my engine now. Used comp springs and Ferrea 6000 series valves. Running a E264 cam w crane 1.7 rockers for 5.44 lift.They seen to run quite well. I'm very happy w them. I did clean the bowls up, and sanding rolled the exhaust ports smooth. They went together w perfect 1/2 turn valve preload. I suspect after I run them hard more that I will need bigger than the 19 lb injectors.
 

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I bought a set of the blueprint heads pedestal mount version and they are on my engine now. Used comp springs and Ferrea 6000 series valves. Running a E264 cam w crane 1.7 rockers for 5.44 lift.They seen to run quite well. I'm very happy w them. I did clean the bowls up, and sanding rolled the exhaust ports smooth. They went together w perfect 1/2 turn valve preload. I suspect after I run them hard more that I will need bigger than the 19 lb injectors.

Are you still running stock/untouched pistons?
 

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Except for a minor enlargement of the intake valve notches in them.
Did you use the ISKY tool to open up the valve notches or does minor enlargement mean free hand? 😜
 

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Did you use the ISKY tool to open up the valve notches or does minor enlargement mean free hand? 😜
Free hand w a die grinder and a square edged carbide cutter. They only need to be enlarged 2mm.
 

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Free hand w a die grinder and a square edged carbide cutter. They only need to be enlarged 2mm.
You are brave! I'd be nervous about messing them up with a freehand process.
 

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What's to mess up? It was simple. Yes the grinder slipped a couple times and ran off across the top of the piston big deal minor marks will fill in w carbon in no time. Piston #8 was all beat up on top from small piece of metal that ran thru the engine sometime its past. I took a sanding roll and smoothed down the high points.
 

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another way to do it is to take an old valve that is the same size or close (same stem size of course), then superglue or epoxy a piece of 36 grit sandpaper to it. Make the paper bigger then the valve head and after the stuff is dried up (over night minimum) trim the paper so that it's slightly larger than the valve head. Using scissors or something similar it'll end up larger naturally. Install valve into the head and run it in with a cordless drill on a low rpm setting, speed doesn't need to be used, go slow.. It don't take out a lot of material so it kinda forces you to go slow, but it comes out very clean, professional looking if you do it right, and it works....and cheaply if you have an old valve to use.

not having a machine shop that will flycut a piston here forces you to do this kind of stuff. Well I take that back there is ONE place that does it but it's over 150 mile drive and you drop them off and maybe a year or two later they'll get around to it.
 
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