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Just had to vent... my restomod (98 explorer motor) was running rough the past week since I've been running back and forth on 20 mile highway runs looking at houses. Finally saw #6 arcing to the head.... actually was able to get the driver side hooker comp header dropped for wire replacement easier than I thought. the wires had multiple cuts and cracked boots that were concealed my the fiberglass sleeves I had on them. I had a set of ford racing wires and didn't want to drop coin on a napa brand set..... So ya I'm the ####### with 45 degree plug ends shooting out of my cap.
 

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Here's my ported and milled gt40ps, ported cobra upper/lower and ecam doing WORK!!!!
 

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Im running the gt40p heads with big valves and slight port work with explorer intake and longtubes and tfs stage 1 cam and supporting mods and made 278 whp and 290 something trq untuned.
 

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Ford Motorsport headers for SN95's and GT40p's

FYI - The Ford Motorsport headers for the SN95's don't fit the GT40p heads. Well, the driver's side won't work, #5 is pretty tight, but #6 & #7 are a no go.
The passenger side fits fine with lots of clearance though.

I didn't see this info in any of the threads listed.
I have been reading GT40p threads for over a week now looking for that info.

hope this helps someone out in the future.
 

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I have a 1995 Mustang GT and would like to put on Gt40p heads and intake. I have a set of upper and lower intake and head from a 1998 Ford Explorer. Can I use this equipment and how much adjustments will I have to do? From what I've seen on other forums it looks like if I use and it external EGR set up I should be okay. I know others with 95 or 94 GT's have used the Gt40p.
 

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I have a 1995 Mustang GT and would like to put on Gt40p heads and intake. I have a set of upper and lower intake and head from a 1998 Ford Explorer. Can I use this equipment and how much adjustments will I have to do? From what I've seen on other forums it looks like if I use and it external EGR set up I should be okay. I know others with 95 or 94 GT's have used the Gt40p.
Your only issue will be adding the EGR bung to your P specific headers.
And you will need an elbow for your intake if you keep the SN95 TB.
 

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Im planning on a gt40p conversion on my 88.
GT40P heads-used-
tfs spring upgrade
E303 cam used
Ford Racing GT40P headers
Cobra intake-used

Can I still use the stock pushrods with this combination or do I have to get new ones?
Thanks in advance
 

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Im planning on a gt40p conversion on my 88.
GT40P heads-used-
tfs spring upgrade
E303 cam used
Ford Racing GT40P headers
Cobra intake-used

Can I still use the stock pushrods with this combination or do I have to get new ones?
Thanks in advance
You won't know until you put the heads on. Some people got away with using the stock pushrods but I ended up needing longer ones.
 

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We all know this is old technology and nobody are using these heads anymore!!! Not everything is in this link! It's about time you head porting guru's spill the beans a secrets on these heads. How much do we port these heads? What are the do's and don'ts to porting them?
I've been reading impressive numbers over the years. When done right these heads can compete with some of the aluminum heads. Please if you guy's have tips pass your knowledge on to us.

Marc
 

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We all know this is old technology and nobody are using these heads anymore!!! Not everything is in this link! It's about time you head porting guru's spill the beans a secrets on these heads. How much do we port these heads? What are the do's and don'ts to porting them?
I've been reading impressive numbers over the years. When done right these heads can compete with some of the aluminum heads. Please if you guy's have tips pass your knowledge on to us.

Marc
My tip for better flow numbers, forced induction.
 

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There is no point in porting iron heads, especially P heads. Save only a little bit more money and buy aluminum. Thicker deck, better flow, less weight.
 

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I have the F3ZE heads from a 96 Explorer I based my porting on lots of online research and three pictures from a member on Corral. He goes by the name Tinman, He got incredible numbers with his porting of GT40 heads. There is absolutely no info on doing the job right.
I got 263/303 on a mustang dyno and I know these heads can do better!( just look for Tinman's post) Yes I can buy top notch heads but the whole idea in my case anyways is making hp's not buying them.
So my question is how much do you open the exhaust port? How much can I have them milled before I screw my intake alignment? Any real info would be appreciated.

Marc
 
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My tip for better flow numbers, forced induction.

At first after the Dyno results I was pissed with the unexpected low numbers 263/303. My first reaction was better heads but then I will probably only gain between 30-40 hp at the wheels.
So I do think forced induction would be better.
 

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waste of money

I know this is old thread but just joined and wanted to add a difernt opinon i think anyone can throw money for bolt ons if you have enough,but some times its great to use factory parts and a little sweat equity and ingenuity and get results too,its a very satisfying feeling to know you did it,not saying anything against going aftermarket just some people dont have deep pockets.i have plenty of cash but im old school and when i started playing with cars there wasnt alot of after market especially for fe,and 335,385 series and 312s etc. so we had to experiment, just a matter of apples and oranges and matter of preference.the 5.0 fox body has more after market support than any car of that period of car!kinda like its the tri five of this era.lol.meaning it had after market support while still in production also had long run like 14 yrs.,like the 55,56,57 chevy and like them the made a ton of them so you can score one preety cheep.and have alot of fun.GOD BLESS the fox BODY!!!!!and fords rule.
 

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I have GT-40P heads on my 96 f150. Ford racing headers and a basinni X pipe. I had to run a shorty spark plug on cylinder 4 because cylinder 2 exhaust tube comes very close to the plug. I actually had to dent in the tube for it to fit right but it got the spark plug boot so hot it ended up burning it and arching over to the header. So what i did was ordered header flanges and used it as a spacer and put heat shields on the plug wires. Due to the spacer i had to bolt the left header up first then i got a ratchet strap to pull the right side over, then it bolted tight up. I havent had anymore problems with melting the plug wires or even exhaust leaks. other than the xpipe being about half an inch from the frame, but it hasnt touched yet so i think itll be fine.
 
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