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I grew up on the Meguier's products, every dealer or shop I dealt with used some of their stuff. After I got out of that hard low profit job(1989), Mother's was coming along, and I like most of their products. Griot's is the last company I learned of by the catalogs they randomly sent me. So I have some of each of theirs, including one of the polishers from Griot's. I like that the best for the size, but I wish the cordless tools had been more popular when they designed them. One of those with a 20v Dewalt battery would be awesome.
 

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Do you have any buffers or polishers? I bought a corded orbital buffer again years ago for serious paint care, but the cord is always a PITA. I got a couple of cordless polishers a while back, but haven't tried either yet. Both are 6-7" I recall, I need to find the pad covers or different backing plates to use velcro pads etc.

It requires real force from a buffer or polisher to do any real good with paint, waxes, compounds etc. The cheap kind are weak and when you press down at all, they stop turning. I have a 12" Craftsman that was the old go to, but I got tired of that cord and started looking for something better, smaller etc.

If a cordless small polisher turns out to be strong enough, you could work real polishes or compounds well over an hour or two, or at the least, wax a vehicle in 15 minutes or less. I used to detail cars, the right tools make a huge difference, and if the wax is kept applied often enough, the next time is easily under 15 minutes(the entire vehicle(no, not a camper etc)).
Yes - I’ve got an older 6” random orbital and also my heavy duty rotary polishers for true buffing. All corded. I honestly don’t do enough true polishing to merit getting new. I just let the cap on the camper go too long. It’s tan and not white like rest of canper and apparently it wants to fade much easier, as the rest of the camper is still glossy white.

I did use the orbital with mcguires - it was a cleaner/wax so it really want aggressive enough to cut it with one coat. However, the gel coat on campers is very thin so I wanted to sneak up on it. Which I did.

Rest of my vehicles are well maintained so they just get a good clay bar and then topcoat of collonite every year or two. Garage kept keeps things so much nicer.
 

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I've considered buying the Griots "kit" with the polisher or two they have. Something I am figuring out is that companies like that who actually do the chemistry part on their own instead of "rebadging" formulas in a different bottle seem to get my attention. Very few small companies that are "private label" actually do the research on the formulas. They are buying a slightly different formula and putting their label on it. There are only a few chemical plants producing them. Very similar to gasoline. A few refineries with the major brands putting their "addative" in it. The larger companies seem to invest in that research of chemistry. My cabinet has had three major brands in it for more than 20 years. Meguiers, Mothers, and Griots. The rest of them seem to oversell and underdeliver. Just my $.02. Plus Griots is used by a few large detailers I know in the area.
You are VERY right. If you guys remember, I worked for a cleaning chemical manufacturer for several years. Private branding is HUGE when it comes to any type of chemicals. Especially specialty products. The R&D alone is more than some companies can afford.

There are NO SECRET chemical formulations. Any company with a spectrum analyzer can break any chemical formulation down within a 1% error give or take. Every single ingredient can be figured out.

The trick is in the proprietary stuff - scent and color. We recreated "Simple Green". Couldn't find a chemical supplier in the country to provide the exact fragrance as SG. SG had literally paid every single fragrance supplier we could find to create that fragrance and license it exclusively to SG. Same on the dye suppliers. We got close on the fragrance and color but not quite there.

Collonite does their own stuff. Their formula was originally used to wax glass insulators on power lines in the 40's I think. The amount of solids in their wax is amazing. Yet it removes like glass and is super easy to apply and remove - as long as you don't go crazy and apply to heavily.

 

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My 3rd job was a detailing company(Elite Car Care) that worked for dealers. They had a paint protection product that was their main selling item, plus a fabric protector. I saw tons of products, that first one was about the best.

Thanks for that endorsement, I'll check out that Collinite soon.
 
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I use the 845 liquid which is a non cleaner/topcoat only. Stuff is amazing and a quarter sized dab on your buffer will do roughly a 1x2 foot panel. I've waxed my entire 38' camper top to bottom two times with that stuff and still have 1/4 bottle left. It goes a LONG way, and you don't want to lay it down too heavy. For those that like to see the math, that's 38' long by 9' tall sides, 9' x 8 front and back. That's a lot of real estate to cover. LOL

It has enough solids that the bottle needs to be warmed up in the sun or some hot water if temps are below 75 degrees or so. Longevity is outstanding. I generally apply by hand in longitudinal strokes with an applicator pad and remove with microfiber the same direction. It has some very nice emollients in it to add depth and color. Honestly, it's as close to a mid grade ceramic coating I've found. It also works great on trim and rubber without leaving any type of residue or streaking. Can even be used on glass.

I typically prep with clay bar first then apply directly on top unless fine polishing is needed. If polishing is needed, then I'll do mcguires for the polish then come back with the collonite.

I'm not exaggerating how easy it is to apply and remove.
 

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While we're on the paint topic.

Should I clay off tar specks all over my car? Pinhead specks.
Clay bar works well for that. Wd-40 and a microfiber do as well. I'd likely go clay bar if there a bunch of speckles. Are you sure it's tar? Tar generally kind of smears when trying to remove. There's some type of insect that leave either poop or eggs that are about pinhead sized but have some height. You can feel them easy with fingernail and flick them off, and they leave a tiny little black speck underneath that's a PITA to remove. They've been around here for maybe 15-20 years, and I have no idea what type of critter it is. I've also seen the same little "dots" on my garage door in a pattern, so it makes me think it's insect pods and not poop.
 

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While we're on the paint topic.

Should I clay off tar specks all over my car? Pinhead specks.
Do as he says, what I learned was car care before 1990, the clay bar wasn't around then.

On new cars they apply a film(Cosmoline) to reduce acid rain. There was a product made to remove that relatively easily, but it was expensive and only one dealership had it and provided it to us. We used kerosene all the time at other places, it took about half a quart of kerosene sprayed on the entire new car, to remove the Cosmoline coating. I had a three gallon pump up sprayer I bought to save my wrists from the constant spraying. I could do about 12 cars in one day by myself, which is very fast for the total cleanup and paint protection.

So for any tar we found on the sides of cars(we did used also), or fresh over spray, or under the hood, we started with kerosene. That won't do any harm, and it cuts most greasy materials. It was very good for engine cleaning of a used car, finishing with a better cleaner to finish with. At home I have no kerosene, I use engine degreaser for that kind of issue, and for heavy parts cleaning, mixing and changing over to brake cleaner.

So use some engine degreaser for road tar etc, it can be done in some sun, and it washes off easily with soap. I have a nice clean wash mitt for top surfaces and clean sides. I use an old mitt that is just for the dirtiest jobs, the wheels, lower sides, front bugs etc. I'd use that for a job like road tar, carefully scrub the spots with the right cleaner(I'd spray the engine degreaser on the mitt and the car), then rinse, and then wash it all quickly.

If it is tar, it should begin to dissolve and streak with degreaser etc, sprayed on it. It won't do that if it is old and cured hard. I have many times come home from having been through a new pavement area, and cleaned the road tar from the sides of my car on the same day. It comes off very fast then, and a car wash finishes it off.
 

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You say cosmoline and I think of rifles. I left a SKS in the hatch if my car one summer day and just wiped it off lol.

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You say cosmoline and I think of rifles. I left a SKS in the hatch if my car one summer day and just wiped it off lol.

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That stuff is hard to remove after it's left on and hardens in a few years. It was inside the door jambs and sometimes under the hoods, along the fenders etc. We'd work on a car a few years old, which hadn't had it removed well, and the Cosmoline would then be dried and hard. That was usually on door jambs where we found it, or along the hood inside edge, and fender. A high pressure washer knocked a lot of that off.
 

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Johnson City here originally from Unicoi county about to start my first project ever with pulling out a 351W out of a 1977 f150 custom that's been sitting for about 30 years. Threw a battery in it connected the terminals and it turned over checked the oil black as night. Now i am waiting for pay day to go get an new engine stand and trying to figure out how to pull the engine out.
 

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Johnson City here originally from Unicoi county about to start my first project ever with pulling out a 351W out of a 1977 f150 custom that's been sitting for about 30 years. Threw a battery in it connected the terminals and it turned over checked the oil black as night. Now i am waiting for pay day to go get an new engine stand and trying to figure out how to pull the engine out.
One good thing these days is a camera phone, take tons of pictures. Bag and label everything.

30 years and the fuel line may be clogged, same as carb. The fuel tank will need a lookin in.

Welcome here, I think the guys that post here could build anything. So ask questions.
 

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Johnson City here originally from Unicoi county about to start my first project ever with pulling out a 351W out of a 1977 f150 custom that's been sitting for about 30 years. Threw a battery in it connected the terminals and it turned over checked the oil black as night. Now i am waiting for pay day to go get an new engine stand and trying to figure out how to pull the engine out.
Welcome!
 

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Well when it rains it ****ing pours (if you'll pardon my French).

62TE transmission in Candy's Journey bit the dust. Died on me in the middle of downtown and I had to get it towed. Phibbs took a look and basically said it was something internal and that I'd have to take it to a specialty shop.

They only charged me $50 for the diag.

Called around to places where people I know have used and am having it towed over to All Pro on Middlebrook.

I basically asked the guy to ballpark the best case worst case scenarios in terms of cost.

He said that they work in stages. To pull the trans, put it on a bench, tear it apart and find out what's broken is $500. Then they'll let me know and after I give the ok, fix whatever it needs. The initial fee rolls into the bill not on top.

So based on his experience as to what might be wrong it'll probably cost somewhere between that and at worst, $2800 for a full/complete rebuild. Not ideal but I guess it could be worse.

Better still, he quoted me 3-5 days from start to having it fixed and back on the road. That compared to Marshall's lead time of sometime in September, I saw it as a plus.

And he warranties the work for 12 mo/12k miles.

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Sorry to hear of more bad car woes, and the delays for so many things now just makes everything harder.

I had my AC go out last night, I'm waiting for my installer to get back to me and let me know how long it might be to have someone check it out.
 
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Welcome WhiteJD4. Greeneville here. Look forward to you progress!
 

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Well when it rains it ****ing pours……

….. he quoted me 3-5 days from start to having it fixed and back on the road. That compared to Marshall's lead time of sometime in September, I saw it as a plus.

And he warranties the work for 12 mo/12k miles.
Sounds like they are on the ball Brian. Sorry for your luck. I feel your pain. Keep us posted. 8-(
 
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Yuk yuk and yuk, guys. I’ve heard residential ac stuff is crazy difficult to get right now. Hopefully that’s not the the case.

Brian - is the trans suspect on all the cars? How many miles on it?
 

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87k ish. They had some issues early on but supposedly a lot of that was worked out in years prior to ours (13).

We've never seen any leaks or experienced any issues with it until now. It's also one of those no dipstick type of trannies.

Apparently there's a 60k mile service for them that we didn't do (wasn't aware) so who knows?

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I heard an interesting point this morning in the economy….

Prices are in part going up due to lack of supplies due to folks choosing not to work. But imagine another level here…. what if China slows down on their shipments of “stuff” on top of it all, to hear things up and make it uncomfortable for us?

This could be a ‘perfect storm’ situation for an economic maelstrom. Pun intended.
 
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