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I have seen the proper Ford tool they use at the dealer to set the preload torque. It's a long bar that I'd say is over four feet in length, from under the vehicle it wasn't hard for the man to tighten it and remove it. I didn't see him do the whole job, or what he used to hold the wheels from turning(that I'd like to know what he did).

That's the man who I had rebuild one front diff, just change the bearings. He had to borrow a special bearing separator from another tech(it's smaller due to the D35 bearings and diff).
 

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The tools I've seen Don -- a simple piece that you bolt into the pinion flange and it's about 3' long. From under the car, you stand and let that piece rest against your chest/belly standing on the passenger side of the car facing the driver's side. Then put your 3' pull bar/ratchet/socket on the pinion nut and pull towards yourself. Your body acting on the long lever attached to the pinion flange is what counteracts the force you're putting into the pinion nut.

When Scott Noe and I put an LSD into the Volvo rearend, we intentionally did NOT use the new pinion bearings that came with the kit. We left the pinion right where it was because he knew (I learned) that if we took the pinion out, we'd have to deal with getting the pinion depth correct. He didn't have the jigs to do that for the Dana rearend, so we'd be facing multiple set ups/tear downs after reading patterns to get the depth right. Unless, of course, we got lucky. I had no reason to suspect there was anything wrong with the OEM Dana pinion bearings -- so we didn't touch it. Just pulled the diff, carefully categoried/measured shim pack on each side, took ring gear off and installed it on the LSD, put the shims back the way they were and pressed new carrier bearings on. Unlike the Ford 8.8", the Dana30 has the carrier bearing shims IN BETWEEN the bearing and the housing -- so a shim change to alter backlash requires pressing the brand new bearings off/on. We got lucky. We checked backlash before we took it apart - not Scott's first rodeo - was .011". Put it back together with shims in the same place/thickness on each side. New backlash was .010" Both within spec.
 

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Two next steps for me -- remove rear springs with the old driveshaft in place and see how much room I have around the existing driveshaft with the rear suspension compressed. That'll help me know if the new one has to be 3" or can be 3.5". And I'll pop the cover and actually measure backlash. Supposedly, you can carefully mark the pinion nut, remove it, pull the flange, replace seal and then put it back together tightening the nut back to exactly where it was before. Likely to involve counting turns, marking threads, etc. Which means you can't use an impact. I don't think I can do that with hand tools from under the car. Besides, if there are other problems within the rear, I'd just as soon go ahead and find out.
 

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That's how my Torsen install went, other than the 8.8 having the thick shims outside the bearings. I was shocked that the back lash came in at .009, I hadn't checked it before, but it felt good on the old 99k mile diff.

I have seen the pinion flange tool also, now it's obvious what that is for. I have a lift but it's at a friend's house, not extremely convenient every day. I might do the 8.8's on the lift, or give it a try at my new house when I find that, in this housing environment. I won't be doing the diff's for a long while, that'll be for a six speed(6R) swap I plan to do in the middle stage of my SUV project. That 6R will require new gears, the 4.17 1st gear needs much different R&P gears, 3.08 is the smallest available for the front D35.
 

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Two next steps for me -- remove rear springs with the old driveshaft in place and see how much room I have around the existing driveshaft with the rear suspension compressed. That'll help me know if the new one has to be 3" or can be 3.5". And I'll pop the cover and actually measure backlash. Supposedly, you can carefully mark the pinion nut, remove it, pull the flange, replace seal and then put it back together tightening the nut back to exactly where it was before. Likely to involve counting turns, marking threads, etc. Which means you can't use an impact. I don't think I can do that with hand tools from under the car. Besides, if there are other problems within the rear, I'd just as soon go ahead and find out.
I did that with my 99's front diff, it leaked when I first bought it. I marked the nut and carefully removed it, swapped the seal, and put the nut as close to where I marked it as possible. I made sure to go at least the the original mark, not short of it. I got it just a hair past the perfect marked location. It took some force with a breaker bar laying under the truck, so I tightened it gently in several steps. At high torque levels, a bolt/nut will move in small steps as it is loosened or tightened. In my pinion nut deal, I snuck up on it and got used to the force needed to turn it slightly each time, and went slower right at the old mark.
 

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If you fast forward to about 15:30 on this one (
) you'll hear him say "ideally, you'll have it a little further down....". If you watch the whole vid, he didn't measure/set pinion depth. He just put the shim that was on the pinion back under the new bearing. Will it be ok -- seems like he's done plenty of these before. As I mentioned before, if you set pinion depth properly, you'll get an "ideal" pattern of tooth engagement.
 
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We always used same bearing and same number of shims and FMS gears only. Backlash and wear pattern was nailed every time. That was a profitable summer lol. We were doing 3-4 per week at one point.
 
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Dilemma - got the replacement bushing; not only is it shorter than the old bushing (less support on the yoke) but it fits noticeably LOOSER on the yoke than the (supposed) worn bushing I removed. Now I'm not sure what to do...
 

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Best I could figure, about 3 thousandths is the clearance I'm supposed to have between yoke and bush - and that's what I have with the new one. So I decided to give it a try. It has 3 lube grooves instead of 2 on the OEM, and they're wider and deeper -- so perhaps the fluid film the yoke rides on will be even better. This tool is the bomb. Took 90 seconds to drive the new one in. Yoke slid right through. Using a piece of 2.5" exhaust pipe and a block of wood - seal drove right in. Since the DS is too short, I'm gonna try a 3/4" DS adapter to push the yoke further in. Used one for sale on the site - for $25, worth a try.





 

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Well guys I made it back from my Maine vacation and my visit with my dad. It was a good visit overall. We stayed off sensitive topics and if one started to appear to be coming I left the room. All allowed by both my dad and his retirement community as I told them (truthfully) we all had the shot.

My question is…. When the next generation of CV comes around where they can push another shot as a “booster” (CV25?), will I continue to get them? I suppose it depends. In my libertarian leaning, I may say enough is enough and I am done with it all.
 

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The new Delta variant is already a problem. "They" are saying that everyone needs to take another vaccine for that, and I heard a doctor say that vaccines can produce new virus strains, an he said this one was caused by one of the vaccines everyone is taking.

How do you know what to believe, the powers that be here, are suppressing all reports of side effects, news stories that list or show those, and most news outlets are helping in that propaganda. There are other international news sources which do details much of the truth etc, but few people know about those sources. So most people are stuck absorbing the false main stream stories, and the limited facts they allow to get out.

The data on side effects are similar to the death certificate false reporting, but opposite. The deaths from Covid 19 are maybe 10% of the reported figures, and only about 10% of side effects are identified positively, and documented as part of the vaccine data. So when they us that 1000 people died from a certain side effect, the real figure is more like 10,000.

This is the result of censorship. Even limited somewhat right now, most people are digesting the false data and still supporting the restrictions, plus the new ones that are being planned.
 

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Karma - was searching for T5 fluid capacity and the first hit was my own post in a thread from the last time I did it before the engine swap.....chuckle.
 

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That's good, you hunted it before, and documented it too. I don't hunt things I typically have posted before, but I'm sure my user name would pop up hundreds of posts about my various cars etc.
 
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Ended up not going to cars and coffee. Weather was just too iffy. Got up this morning and it had dropped to 15% but just didn’t want to have clean cobra up again if it rained.
 

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Been there many times Richard.....if in doubt, I usually sit it out. I'm beginning to see the allure of a "rat rod" or a "patina". Just drive it, park it anywhere, it can't get dirty 'cause it's already dirty.

Got my 11/16" driveshaft spacer on the way - I'll get it all together on Wed. Thursday test drive and we'll see what we got.
 
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Yep. I’ve thought the rat Rod thing many times myself. Friend of mine has a 62 bel air that he’s down air ride, LS swap, big brakes/wheels tires and that’s it. Original patina paint and such. Drive it and just keep wheels clean and that’s it.

I will say, the cobra is so small it’s really not much to wash it. Especially after being used to the truck and camper.

Waxed the front cap on the camper. Did three coats of mcguires on it as it had faded a bit. Bright it back nicely. It’s a pain to wax as the tongue gets in the way while placing the ladder and such.

I need to order some colonite for fiberglass. Some of the longest lasting wax I’ve ever used.
 
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Yep. I’ve thought the rat Rod thing many times myself. Friend of mine has a 62 bel air that he’s down air ride, LS swap, big brakes/wheels tires and that’s it. Original patina paint and such. Drive it and just keep wheels clean and that’s it.

I will say, the cobra is so small it’s really not much to wash it. Especially after being used to the truck and camper.

Waxed the front cap on the camper. Did three coats of mcguires on it as it had faded a bit. Bright it back nicely. It’s a pain to wax as the tongue gets in the way while placing the ladder and such.

I need to order some colonite for fiberglass. Some of the longest lasting wax I’ve ever used.
Do you have any buffers or polishers? I bought a corded orbital buffer again years ago for serious paint care, but the cord is always a PITA. I got a couple of cordless polishers a while back, but haven't tried either yet. Both are 6-7" I recall, I need to find the pad covers or different backing plates to use velcro pads etc.

It requires real force from a buffer or polisher to do any real good with paint, waxes, compounds etc. The cheap kind are weak and when you press down at all, they stop turning. I have a 12" Craftsman that was the old go to, but I got tired of that cord and started looking for something better, smaller etc.

If a cordless small polisher turns out to be strong enough, you could work real polishes or compounds well over an hour or two, or at the least, wax a vehicle in 15 minutes or less. I used to detail cars, the right tools make a huge difference, and if the wax is kept applied often enough, the next time is easily under 15 minutes(the entire vehicle(no, not a camper etc)).
 

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Been there many times Richard.....if in doubt, I usually sit it out. I'm beginning to see the allure of a "rat rod" or a "patina". Just drive it, park it anywhere, it can't get dirty 'cause it's already dirty.
My 1990 Saleen that I bought is just that. I built one that's "too nice" to just cruise. I don't want to do that with the 90. It's going to be nice enough to show, but not nice enough to win any trophies. lol.
 

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Morning Gents. No car projects here lately. Any update from this weekend Brian?
 

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Do you have any buffers or polishers? I bought a corded orbital buffer again years ago for serious paint care, but the cord is always a PITA. I got a couple of cordless polishers a while back, but haven't tried either yet. Both are 6-7" I recall, I need to find the pad covers or different backing plates to use velcro pads etc.

It requires real force from a buffer or polisher to do any real good with paint, waxes, compounds etc. The cheap kind are weak and when you press down at all, they stop turning. I have a 12" Craftsman that was the old go to, but I got tired of that cord and started looking for something better, smaller etc.

If a cordless small polisher turns out to be strong enough, you could work real polishes or compounds well over an hour or two, or at the least, wax a vehicle in 15 minutes or less. I used to detail cars, the right tools make a huge difference, and if the wax is kept applied often enough, the next time is easily under 15 minutes(the entire vehicle(no, not a camper etc)).
I've considered buying the Griots "kit" with the polisher or two they have. Something I am figuring out is that companies like that who actually do the chemistry part on their own instead of "rebadging" formulas in a different bottle seem to get my attention. Very few small companies that are "private label" actually do the research on the formulas. They are buying a slightly different formula and putting their label on it. There are only a few chemical plants producing them. Very similar to gasoline. A few refineries with the major brands putting their "addative" in it. The larger companies seem to invest in that research of chemistry. My cabinet has had three major brands in it for more than 20 years. Meguiers, Mothers, and Griots. The rest of them seem to oversell and underdeliver. Just my $.02. Plus Griots is used by a few large detailers I know in the area.
 
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