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You know a new hood isn’t going to happen. Lol
 

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For those of you not on my Facebook feed, here’s a pic of my son amd his body transformation. Exactly one year apart. He took his competitive drive in sports and applied it to working out. Five days a week, hour to hour and a half. Nice stress reliever from the college grind.

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Bulked up in a good way!

Yes Bob - too tall (95mm stroke) + DOHC.

Richard - plenty of folks have put the Toyota/Lexus 1UZ V8's in them. I've posted this here before -- here's a turbocharged 1UZ that looks almost stock...
And haven't completely thought through efi set ups yet. Many of these motors probably easier to just do a stand alone injection/ignition set up what with old ecu's/questionable 'tuning' support and old wiring harnesses.

The 90-degree V on V8's helps with height. But just don't want to put that much weight up front. The engines sit far forward on these - with a V8 I'm afraid I'd be approaching pickup truck/FWD front to rear balance.

I explored dry sump with the K-series Honda engines - spend $900 on the engine and then $2500-$3000 on the dry sump....but, who knows. Maybe. The nice thing about the K series is very light weight.

In that vein, what I'd really like is the turbo 1.6L 3 cylinder powering the new awd Yaris GR. So far, no US imports. 260HP at 6500; 267 lb-ft of torque at 3300. And lightweight. Not sure about height - but almost a 90mm stroke, so it's likely tall too.

Cowl hood? :)

I appreciate the discussion guys - it helps me think through things. If I'm willing to start modifying the crossmember and lose my upper strut bar (I love that thing) - I may be able to make some of these work. But I'd like to try and see if I can find something that will fit without those mods.
 

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We made a drop crossmember when I did the v8 swap on my mini truck. Allowed use of the stock hood with a low rise air cleaner. The drop cleared the oil pan. It was also bolted in so it could be removed for easy oil pan access if needed.
The newer stuff will need the factory computer to run all the variable timing and stuff. Old can use a stand-alone for simplicity sake.
 

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Actually Richard some of the newer systems (Holley for example) make products that will run the VVT. Modding the crossmember can gain me some room (or even spacing it down from the frame and then shortening the springs a bit more) - problem is that the bottom of the crossmember as well as the oil pan already sit pretty close to the ground. I'd be reluctant to go much lower. Knocking a front air dam is one thing, but hitting the crossmember.....
 

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Yeah, my crossmember was really about an inch too low. It would occasionally kiss the pavement if I hit a large dip. I also avoided manhole covers like the plague as a precaution. I was young and wasn’t too concerned lol.
 

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A friend put a 2rz engine in his mid 70's celica with a turbo. The truck cam made it crazy torquey down low. Looks like in factory trim they can make up to 150hp N/A. 86mm stroke though. In an I-4 config. I'm sure the celica has more room than yours. You may have mentioned this one already though.

I'd stay away from the V8's and even the V6's if it were me. A DOHC I-4 with a turbo would be the ticket. The I-4 turbo and n/a V6 may be within a few lbs of each other. So it may be a flip of a coin there. Maybe it's me but the I-4 might give you more options? Since the car came with one?

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Richard - I’m old and concerned. COL!

Bob - You’d think so. Seems that all contemporary stuff is undersquare which results in tall engines. Need to make a morning run to the junk yard with coveralls and my tape measure. Just see what I see. The 22R isn’t really much of an upgrade. Probably a bit heavier and as you said, it’s a truck motor. Also exploring modifying the sump and tipping the motor over 30-40 degrees to reduce height. Means custom oil pan...which probably gonna be required regardless.
 

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Sorry Bob - misread - 2RZ is the contemporary replacement for the old 22R. Came in 2.4 and 2.7L versions. Built for low rpm torque - 95mm stroke on the 2.7. And cast iron block....so that’s a no go.
 

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Sorry Bob - misread - 2RZ is the contemporary replacement for the old 22R. Came in 2.4 and 2.7L versions. Built for low rpm torque - 95mm stroke. And cast iron block....so that’s a no go.
Ah... Cast iron is out! No Skillets under your hood. haha

S2000 motor seems to be a common swap in your car.

 

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Many, many S2000 folks swap in the K20 K24 getting rid of the F20, F22; in fact a lot of BMW E30 guys are swapping NA or turbo K motors. Naturally aspirated 260-270 whp is pretty easy; turbo 350-400 pretty easy. And the F motors are crazy expensive -- they practically give the K motors away. I learned that when I pursued info about the F motors - everyone steered me to the K motor instead. But height remains an issue with either - 84mm stroke with the 2L; almost 91mm with the 2.2L. BTW, most of the K swaps go into the Corolla models a bit later than mine - 75-79 and 80-83 -- little bigger/taller engine bay.

A better possibility may be the 2.0L engine tranny out of the Miata/MX5. The 2.0L Duratec has about a 20mm shorter deck height than the 2.3, 2.5 versions. So I need to get some measurements on that and just see. Plus, it's already set up for rwd - the K motors were all FWD - although several sources make the bits to orient it longitudinally.

May just have to resort to this.....it fits EASY.
1069779
 

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Ok, I’ll bite. What is “this”?
 

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I mean...


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The Z's have all kinds of room because of a big, tall inline six they were engineered for.....

C'mon Richard! Rotary....imagine a box about 14"x14"x14". Add 6-8" on top for induction, less if you just turn the intake up instead of over the top. And about 6" in length for accessories. It's compact.

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I miss those rotary engines. I used to work at a Mazda dealer in the 1984-1988 years, and figured then that eventually there would be a bigger version made. I hoped for one at least twice the original size, a "4 cylinder" version, or five even. I have a friend who attempted to help rebuild one a couple years ago, the two halves were slightly worn, and the owner had to look for replacements.
 
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"Honda has announced a limited edition package that will make its Civic Type R crate motor easier to install. Called the Controls Package, it includes a wiring harness, fuse box, accelerator pedal, and ECU programmed by Honda Performance Development.

Honda began offering its K20C1 crate motor from the Civic Type R in the U.S. in 2017, but it came as just the long block, alternator, turbo, and starter motor. As anyone who's conducted an engine swap knows, that's just the beginning. To make the motor work with the host car, you have to connect systems like fuel injection, ignition, and sensors to the vehicle's electronic brain, the ECU.

With the Controls Package, the 306-horsepower, 295 lb-ft inline-four is far simpler to install. You'll still have to source some items on your own, such as engine mounts, plumbing for the intercooler and exhaust from the turbo back, fuel supply, and cooling system. But, not having to solder your own wires or find an aftermarketsolution is no longer a concern."
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K20 (2.0L) has a 19mm shorter deck height than the K24....ebayer selling them local to me here in Charlotte. Asked him to take some measurements.
 

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The Z's have all kinds of room because of a big, tall inline six they were engineered for.....

C'mon Richard! Rotary....imagine a box about 14"x14"x14". Add 6-8" on top for induction, less if you just turn the intake up instead of over the top. And about 6" in length for accessories. It's compact.

View attachment 1069791
I don't know that I've ever seen that type of view on a rotary lol. I'm decently familiar with them. Do they all have that cogged belt on the front? That was really throwing me off LOL.

Packaging wise they would certainly help out considerably. And rear drive would certainly help as well. 9000 rpm would be fun. From what I recall, torque is lacking a bit down low on them. Bet they would scream with a turbo on there. :D
 

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Low rpm torque is an issue - part of the reason fuel mileage was so (relatively) bad with them. Given how smooth they rev (like an electric motor) I'd likely just leave the 4.56 gear in the car -- that would help with torque multiplication as well. As for screaming with a turbo....

550 whp at 7800 rpm with a 2 rotor at 20 psi.
950 whp with a 4 rotor at 20 psi.

Those engines even in non-turbo form are pretty expensive to build; in turbo form, very expensive to build.
 
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