Ford Mustang Forums banner

30401 - 30420 of 30680 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
35,753 Posts
Got it....so did I miss it? What was the fix?

Left and right side 1" blocks in, cleaned up, painted springs and other bits. Will be able to set the Panhard within 1 degree of level with the rearend. I had to guess at how low my chassis bracket should go. If I set it at zero degrees/parallel with axle, the holes in the chassis bracket will be just a little too low for my comfort.


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,665 Posts
Got it....so did I miss it? What was the fix?

Left and right side 1" blocks in, cleaned up, painted springs and other bits. Will be able to set the Panhard within 1 degree of level with the rearend. I had to guess at how low my chassis bracket should go. If I set it at zero degrees/parallel with axle, the holes in the chassis bracket will be just a little too low for my comfort.


The true fix is to buy the new ignitor. About twenty bucks. Temp fix was to scrape the contacts clean and clock the ignitor 90 degrees. The bulb only has two pegs for ears to latch on to. One is broken and one is bent. They are opposite each other. So, clicking it put both ears on both pegs. My testing showed that so far it looks like it will do well.

the high voltage ignition is a short term event and then maintained by regular voltage. I’ll know very quickly whether it will be a sustainable fix.

The chassis work is coming along nicely. How much weight will you be adding to the car with the changes?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,320 Posts
This is the culprit for my intermittent working driverside HID. Bad connection. This goes right onto the bag of the bulb and is the igniter. One ear is bent and one is gone. So loose connection over time, arcing for each ignition and slowly corroded the connection amd melted part of the connector from heat.
Amazing what arcing can do. Lightning strikes inside the connector.

Coming from someone with a lot of electronics experience and issues like this. Replacement is the only long term fix. Especially if the plastic has melted due to the arcing. It will come back at some point otherwise.

Panhard is coming along Michael. All those measurements are so important when adding components like that. Looks great as usual.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35,753 Posts
I think Richard's (lovingly) trolling me. He's cracking up seeing me, now, with all washers, bolts, joints, fabbed bits on and off the bathroom scale....LOL! Maybe 32 ozs....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,715 Posts
I want to see you weighing the panhard bar and the heim joints. I still have an MM PHB kit I got before finding out the differences of the Fox chassis I have. I'd be fabbing the mounts entirely anyway most likely. I'm on the fence about that, it may be the same hard part as doing an IRS mounting. Those IRS' don't turn up often at a decent price though, I've put off that thought.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,665 Posts
I think Richard's (lovingly) trolling me. He's cracking up seeing me, now, with all washers, bolts, joints, fabbed bits on and off the bathroom scale....LOL! Maybe 32 ozs....
don’t think I didn’t giggle when I thought to ask. Even more so when you thought “I’ll have to remove half of that stuff to weight it”. Lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35,753 Posts
Nothing fully welded yet or painted. Haven’t even bought all fasteners yet - so it’ll all be off the car multiple times.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,736 Posts
Took the stang out for a drive two nights ago and I burned out a fan relay. The prong that sends power to the fans Was slightly melted. My DCC systems LED showing how much power is going to the fans seemed a bit unusually active.... Fans were struggling a bit. So I put on a new relay and it powered back up the fans.

Took her back out tonight, ambient air temps cool of course at 65-68F.

LED again showing higher than normal Power needs. Cruising in these cool temps I should need little electric fans (duel Contour fans, separate power and ground wires) Running from the one relay. Contour fan is about 18mo old. I had a dual SPAL 3200 FPS fan but it seemed to reach its end of life when I put this Contour on. I know it’s not as good as I had so I am wondering about it as well.

When I got home I popped the hood and my oil cooler AN limes seemed hot. Water temps in radiator were cool. My AOD cooler is separate from the radiator, I run an engine oil cooler in its place and have for 20 yrs. Water level was fine.

I checked my oil level and it was at the low end of the range, so I added a quart but that shouldn’t be responsible. I have an 8qt+ system with my aftermarket oil pan and dual remote Amsoil filter system.

Are these temps unusual for oil temps? 140F inlet temp on oil after I stopped and shut her off in the garage. 105F hot passenger side of radiator After I stopped. I could rest my had one the radiator no problem, but AN fittings were toasty. Sensor on IR gun pointed at AN fitting, laser shines at a slightly different location.

Ive not measured my oil temps before so not sure if that’s an issue or not.

She ran Great this summer. AC full blast, traffic Stops no problem.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,736 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,736 Posts
The fit was fine. There are two waterproofing covers to insulate from moisture and it makes it for a blind fit and a bit awkward due to the rubber restricting movement. The previous owner likely fouled it up is my guess. It was tough to “feel” where to start the insert/turn and easy to get it slightly crooked if not careful. I was impressed with the retrofit on the lights though, they did a great job sealing them up. They’ve been together for 6+ years and holding up well. Being 55w projectors they really throw a great pattern. The field of view is amazing too since they use a 3” projector.
HID is SUCH an improvement. I love them on my stang and am considering putting them in my WJ Jeep. Great for old eyes at night!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,715 Posts
Took the stang out for a drive two nights ago and I burned out a fan relay. The prong that sends power to the fans Was slightly melted. My DCC systems LED showing how much power is going to the fans seemed a bit unusually active.... Fans were struggling a bit. So I put on a new relay and it powered back up the fans.

Took her back out tonight, ambient air temps cool of course at 65-68F.

LED again showing higher than normal Power needs. Cruising in these cool temps I should need little electric fans (duel Contour fans, separate power and ground wires) Running from the one relay. Contour fan is about 18mo old. I had a dual SPAL 3200 FPS fan but it seemed to reach its end of life when I put this Contour on. I know it’s not as good as I had so I am wondering about it as well.

When I got home I popped the hood and my oil cooler AN limes seemed hot. Water temps in radiator were cool. My AOD cooler is separate from the radiator, I run an engine oil cooler in its place and have for 20 yrs. Water level was fine.

I checked my oil level and it was at the low end of the range, so I added a quart but that shouldn’t be responsible. I have an 8qt+ system with my aftermarket oil pan and dual remote Amsoil filter system.

Are these temps unusual for oil temps? 140F inlet temp on oil after I stopped and shut her off in the garage. 105F hot passenger side of radiator After I stopped. I could rest my had one the radiator no problem, but AN fittings were toasty. Sensor on IR gun pointed at AN fitting, laser shines at a slightly different location.

Ive not measured my oil temps before so not sure if that’s an issue or not.

She ran Great this summer. AC full blast, traffic Stops no problem.

What fluid do you have running through your radiator, it's not the ATF?

I don't think the outside surface temperature is going to be close enough to the actual fluid temp, to have the hand held device be useful. I'd expect the ATF fluid to run over 150*, close to 200* in hard usage, but the coolant should be well below the thermostat rating with good airflow.

The DCC is made for full current control, do you have a relay feeding that module? I hadn't thought of doing that, I ran mine with a fused power wire from the PDB. The tiny terminals on the DCC was the only flaw I saw in the system design, I twisted one of those off the first time I tightened the nut. Fortunately I used two nuts, so there was enough threads left to get one nut to hold the wire terminal on. Those are very fragile, super fragile.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Leadsled Coupe

·
Registered
Joined
·
35,753 Posts
I'm with Don -- what's the relay's purpose in the DCC set up? I don't have one on either of mine. Straight from battery hot to the input lug on the DCC, fused of course.

I had a problem on the Volvo a few months ago. DCC kept swinging current from nothing to almost 100%. I figured it was near the end of it's life (20 years almost) so I ordered a new one from Brian. He reached out and asked why. I described the problem and he told me that the little fiber washers that were used on the terminals will dry out and crack/fall apart over a long period of time. When they do, the terminal lug becomes loose and it manifests by trying to pull the current through a bad contact -- which equals heat. When I dug into it, that's exactly what happened on mine - even melted some of the insulation on one of the wires. I replaced a piece of wire that got hot, put new ring terms on and got rid of the washers that were the problem. Function returned to normal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,736 Posts
I wired the fan 20 yrs ago with a manual Switch in the passenger compartment to activate a relay in the front pass corner of the engine compartment. This is near my main power distribution node fed from the battery in the trunk In front of the pass strut tower.

I’ll have to check the specifics of how I wired up the DCC unit and the relay later today. I liked being able to turn the fan off completely when i wired it so long ago. Cruising at 50-60 mph at lower HP days didn’t require a fan at all. Yes a fuse and removal of the inside switch /relay may be best now. I used 10 gauge for power to the DCC and fans.

I also upgraded my original DCC 18mo ago to a newer one Michael when I installed the new fan system. I’ll check those contacts guys. Good idea.

I do wonder if this aftermarket Contour fan pulls the same CFM as my older top of the line SPAL Dual fan. But it did seem to do the trick this last summer. ....

Its always something. Thanks for letting me run this by you guys.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35,753 Posts
If the temp control is set properly relative to t’stat temp (at least 5-7F higher) and you have proper air flow over the rad at speed (lower aid dam in place?) the fans should never be on once you get up to 35-40 mph. Of course, it takes a little time at cruise for airflow to take temps below the set point at which point fans go off.

Does the switch/relay provide power to the fans or power up the DCC? Either way, I think I’d lose it...

I do have my A/C-compressor trigger wire for the DCC running through a switch on the dash. That way for long hwy runs with A/C I can not have the fans running at 50% all the time. Of course, if engine temps rise for some reason (climbing long hill into the mountains) the controller would still activate.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,736 Posts
I will have to check today. I’ve forgotten exactly how I wired that. I believe i used a fusible link instead of a fuse. What size fuse did you use on yours?

I made a Ranger front air dam (wrap around) work with mods. I have some foam also for trying to make all the air go into the radiator as well And not let it slide around.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,736 Posts
I’d better look and see if something else there is amiss.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,595 Posts
I had a much more rudimentary set up for the electric fan in my bronco.

Fused relay to temp switch into a toggle switch in the dash.

The one fan I had was a Spal and was extremely loud. When I got a Chinese replacement radiator when my crapped the bed it came with a smaller fan. Just wouldn't cool. Went back to a mechanical fan and haven't had a problem since.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,736 Posts
I might take off the nose piece entirely and see what I can do to help direct the air better - perhaps with some sheet metal and rivets....
 
30401 - 30420 of 30680 Posts
Top